Wilsons Sandbox

Have you tried using starter fluid to see if it will run off that? Use either sparingly as too much can damage your engine. Is there any chance that you have had the flywheel loose? Could the woodruff key that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft have been damaged or let the ignition timing slip? Since you seem to have an electrical glitch, I d say you will need to fix those first. Turning your handlebars shouldn t effect the way the starter works. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: David Nichols Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 10:09 AM To: KLR Group Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting I'm trying to troubleshoot my 97 KLR650. Here are the symptoms: * I have gone thru the carb, it's clean and everything is in excellent shape (new pilot jet, main jet, needle jet, anti backfire diaphragm, slide and diaphragm are good, new float plunger, cleaned by soaking everything in carb cleaner and blowing out with compressed air). * I just replaced the one bad carb part (enrichener plunger) and it didn't seem to make a difference. * I have pulled the fuel line off the petcock and when I crank the engine it pumps fuel out the fitting. * I have opened the float bowl drain and drained the bowl thru a hose into a coffee can while cranking. * I have inspected the gas for water, there is none. * My IMS tank is vented well. * I have checked all the plugs for broken wires and corrosion, I found none. I coated them with dielectric grease and made sure they are plugged in. * I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight, the battery is 6 months old AGM and it cranks the engine excellent. * When I ground the spark plug to the engine case and crank the engine I have spark (it's a new plug). * I tested the coil per the Clymer manual and it checks ok. * When I pull the plug after trying to start it the plug is dry. * When I turn the bars to the right the starter cuts out, when the bars are turned left the starter cranks. I inspected the harness and there is one area where the outer cover has rubbed thru but only to the wire insulation no copper strands are exposed. * The safety bypass switches (clutch and kickstand) seem to have been bypassed by the previous owner. * When it stopped running it bogged under heavy throttle and when I let off it ran for 100 yards and then died completely. * Aside from the other issues (turning the bars with intermittent starter, and the safety bypass mystery) if I have spark and fuel it should start, right? What am I missing in my fuel system? I am at a loss here, can I get some tips? -David cell: 817-657-7916 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Fred. I found this brown wire was broken. Looking at the wiring diagram it goes to the engine stop switch. It is spliced to two other brown wires and two brown/white wires. One brown/white goes to the regulator/rectifier and the other to the tachometer. The other brown goes to the front brake switch and the other goes to the 10 amp fuse. See photo: http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh482/nichodr/C360_2012-08-17-18-02-23_org.jpg Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android From: Fred Hink ; To: David Nichols ; Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting Sent: Fri, Aug 17, 2012 10:58:41 PM Most likely you won t find a wire problem in the middle of the wires but at the end at the connections. Unless you see damage to the wire sheath you probably won t find any wire damage but I d suspect where the wires are crimped on to the wire ends. If you are getting spark, you can try starting your bike on either or starting fluid just to see if it will fire. If your bike won t continue to run then you have a fueling problem. If your bike runs and quits when you turn the handlebars, you have an electrical problem. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: David Nichols Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 11:01 AM To: Fred Hink Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting I'm sure it's not flooded. The plug was dry. Too dry, as if I'm not getting gas into the combustion chamber. I'm going to unwrap the harness and inspect for broken wires. Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android From: Fred Hink ; To: David Nichols ; Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting Sent: Fri, Aug 17, 2012 4:31:17 PM Try starting fluid and if it doesn t fire, then I d say you have an ignition problem. Is there a chance that you may have flooded your engine? To start a flooded engine you need to try to start it with the throttle wide open and once it fires keep it running at a normal rpm with the throttle. The handlebar issue bothers me. I d make sure you don t have any electrical problems there first. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: David Nichols Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 10:27 AM To: Fred Hink Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting I tried spraying carb cleaner into the opening where the air cleaner goes whole holding the throttle open. It didn't fire. I haven't touched the flywheel. Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android From: Fred Hink ; To: David Nichols ; KLR Group DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>; Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting Sent: Fri, Aug 17, 2012 4:24:15 PM Have you tried using starter fluid to see if it will run off that? Use either sparingly as too much can damage your engine. Is there any chance that you have had the flywheel loose? Could the woodruff key that holds the flywheel to the crankshaft have been damaged or let the ignition timing slip? Since you seem to have an electrical glitch, I d say you will need to fix those first. Turning your handlebars shouldn t effect the way the starter works. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: David Nichols Sent: Friday, August 17, 2012 10:09 AM To: KLR Group Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting I'm trying to troubleshoot my 97 KLR650. Here are the symptoms: * I have gone thru the carb, it's clean and everything is in excellent shape (new pilot jet, main jet, needle jet, anti backfire diaphragm, slide and diaphragm are good, new float plunger, cleaned by soaking everything in carb cleaner and blowing out with compressed air). * I just replaced the one bad carb part (enrichener plunger) and it didn't seem to make a difference. * I have pulled the fuel line off the petcock and when I crank the engine it pumps fuel out the fitting. * I have opened the float bowl drain and drained the bowl thru a hose into a coffee can while cranking. * I have inspected the gas for water, there is none. * My IMS tank is vented well. * I have checked all the plugs for broken wires and corrosion, I found none. I coated them with dielectric grease and made sure they are plugged in. * I have checked the battery terminals and they are tight, the battery is 6 months old AGM and it cranks the engine excellent. * When I ground the spark plug to the engine case and crank the engine I have spark (it's a new plug). * I tested the coil per the Clymer manual and it checks ok. * When I pull the plug after trying to start it the plug is dry. * When I turn the bars to the right the starter cuts out, when the bars are turned left the starter cranks. I inspected the harness and there is one area where the outer cover has rubbed thru but only to the wire insulation no copper strands are exposed. * The safety bypass switches (clutch and kickstand) seem to have been bypassed by the previous owner. * When it stopped running it bogged under heavy throttle and when I let off it ran for 100 yards and then died completely. * Aside from the other issues (turning the bars with intermittent starter, and the safety bypass mystery) if I have spark and fuel it should start, right? What am I missing in my fuel system? I am at a loss here, can I get some tips? -David cell: 817-657-7916 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 09:09:52 -0700 (PDT) David Nichols writes:

> I'm trying to troubleshoot my 97 KLR650. > > * When I turn the bars to the right the starter cuts out, > when the bars are turned left the starter cranks. I inspected the > harness and there is one area where the outer cover has rubbed thru > but only to the wire insulation no copper strands are exposed. >

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> David, Just because the insulation isn't cut/broken doesn't mean a wire isn't broken inside the insulation. My suggestion is to fix what you know is wrong and look in that same area for at least one more broken wire. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ 53 Year Old Mom Looks 33 The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/502eee0ed9076e0d44b3st04vuc

On Fri, 17 Aug 2012 19:22:37 -0700 (PDT) David Nichols writes:

> Thanks Jeff, did you see the photo of the broken wire I found? Any > thoughts on that being the cause of my problems?

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> David, I did not see the photo of the broken wire. Taking a quick look at the Clymer Manual wiring diagram it looks like brown wires are power for lights and horn and also supply power to the engine stop switch and starter button off the front brake switch. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Woman is 53 But Looks 25 Mom reveals 1 simple wrinkle trick that has angered doctors... http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/502f03cd6b5cd3cd42d8st03vuc

On Sat, 18 Aug 2012 10:33:45 -0700 (PDT) David Nichols writes:

> Thanks, no such thing as a stupid question. > > The spark is yellow, not blue. The carb is in perfect condition, > that's the first thing I suspected so I went thru it. The starter > cranks it fast and my battery is excellent. Do you think I have a > weak spark so it wouldn't fire? What could cause that?

<><><><><> <><><><><> David, If you have spark and fuel that leaves compression. When was the last time you adjusted the valves? Might be a good time to check cam timing while checking the valves. You don't hear of the spark timing being off on KLRs so unless something really weird is happening it's probably not high on the list of stuff to check. When you check the valve clearances note if any are larger than spec. Valve clearances that increase indicate a valve that isn't closing. That will cause a no start condition. Two things come to mind that might cause increased clearances. One is a bent valve and the other is carbon or something else holding the valve open. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Mom Lazy Way to Look Young Doctor Reveals Way to Look Significantly Younger in 17 Seconds http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/50306643272db66420e26st04vuc

Thinking back to an incident 40 years ago, don't disregard the potential for a bad "new" sparkplug. -----Original Message----- From: David Nichols Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2012 11:33 AM To: edsrockin@... Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Not starting Thanks, no such thing as a stupid question. The spark is yellow, not blue. The carb is in perfect condition, that's the first thing I suspected so I went thru it. The starter cranks it fast and my battery is excellent. Do you think I have a weak spark so it wouldn't fire? What could cause that? Sent from Yahoo! Mail on Android [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links