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possible carb problem.
Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 3:51 pm
by David Nichols
My 97 KLR recently stopped while riding down the road. I was attempting to pass a car and when it twisted the throttle it bogged. I was able to back off the throttle and it maintained a constant speed for a few seconds then it completely stopped and wouldn't restart. I have spark at the plug and I replaced it with a new one. I cleaned the carb thoroughly. I disassembled it completely, soaked in carb cleaner and blew out all passages with compressed air. I inspected everything and it all looks good. I had a rebuild kit and installed a new pilot jet, main jet, air screw and all new gaskets. The petcock is working, I have clear fuel lines and I can see the gas flowing while I crank the engine. I checked the carb float valve and it's opening and closing. The air filter was recently cleaned and it ran fine after that. I'm at a loss, can anyone think of something I've missed? The one part that isn't in perfect shape is the enrichener plunger. It had a
scratch on it that I polished out and I haven't been able to use it (really haven't needed it here in Texas) because when the lever is moved it doesn't close right. In the past it would run after the enrichener lever was moved but it would bog and pop on deceleration until I pushed it back into the carb body.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
possible carb problem.
Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 5:15 pm
by Michael Martin
David,
I t sounds as if you have been thorough with servicing the carb. You say that there is spark, but I don't know how strong the spark is. It is possible for a spark to jump the plug gap while the plug is outside the cylinder, but it takes a higher voltage for the spark to jump the gap inside the cylinder where the pressure is much higher. Following is the Engine Spark Test from my Clymer manual. It may help you to judge the strength of the spark.
ENGINE SPARK TEST
An engine spark test indicates whether the ignition system is providing power to the spark
plug. It is a quick way to determine if a problem is in the electrical system or fuel system.
CAUTION
When performing this test, the spark plug lead must be grounded before cranking the engine. If it is not, it is possible to damage the CDI circuitry. A spark plug can be used for this test, but a spark tester will clearly show if spark is occurring, as well as the strength of
the spark. This tester can be purchased at parts supply stores or suppliers of ignition test
equipment.
1. Remove the spark plug. Inspect the spark plug by comparing its condition to the plugs shown in Chapter Three.
2. Connect the spark plug lead to the spark plug or to a spark tester.
3. Ground the plug/tester to bare metal on the engine. Position the plug/tester so the firing
end can be viewed.
4. Crank the engine and observe the spark. A fat blue spark should appear at the firing end. The spark should fire consistently as the engine is cranked.
5. If the spark appears weak, or fires inconsistently, check the following areas for the
possible cause:
a. Fouled/improperly gapped spark plug.
b. Damaged/shorted spark plug lead and cap.
cl Loose connection in ignition system.
d. Damaged coil.
e. Damaged ignition switch.
f. Dirty/shorted engine stop switch.
g.Damaged exciter coil or ignition pickup coil (check ignition timing).
h. Damaged CDI unit.
Hope this helps,
Mike Martin,
Louisville, KY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
possible carb problem.
Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 6:09 pm
by David Nichols
The spark appears to be weak, it's not a "fat blue spark ", more of a yellow one. Thanks for this, I also have a Clymer but I was focused on a fuel issue. Now I need to determine the cause of the weak spark. Any tips on that would be appreciated...
Occasionally the engine won't crank. It's like there's a loose connection. I did have an issue awhile ago where the engine wouldn't crank unless the bars are turned to the left. It seemed to have corrected itself but maybe it's come up again and this is related.
-David
________________________________
From: Michael Martin
To: "
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 5:15 PM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Possible carb problem.
David,
I t sounds as if you have been thorough with servicing the carb. You say that there is spark, but I don't know how strong the spark is. It is possible for a spark to jump the plug gap while the plug is outside the cylinder, but it takes a higher voltage for the spark to jump the gap inside the cylinder where the pressure is much higher. Following is the Engine Spark Test from my Clymer manual. It may help you to judge the strength of the spark.
ENGINE SPARK TEST
An engine spark test indicates whether the ignition system is providing power to the spark
plug. It is a quick way to determine if a problem is in the electrical system or fuel system.
CAUTION
When performing this test, the spark plug lead must be grounded before cranking the engine. If it is not, it is possible to damage the CDI circuitry. A spark plug can be used for this test, but a spark tester will clearly show if spark is occurring, as well as the strength of
the spark. This tester can be purchased at parts supply stores or suppliers of ignition test
equipment.
1. Remove the spark plug. Inspect the spark plug by comparing its condition to the plugs shown in Chapter Three.
2. Connect the spark plug lead to the spark plug or to a spark tester.
3. Ground the plug/tester to bare metal on the engine. Position the plug/tester so the firing
end can be viewed.
4. Crank the engine and observe the spark. A fat blue spark should appear at the firing end. The spark should fire consistently as the engine is cranked.
5. If the spark appears weak, or fires inconsistently, check the following areas for the
possible cause:
a. Fouled/improperly gapped spark plug.
b. Damaged/shorted spark plug lead and cap.
cl Loose connection in ignition system.
d. Damaged coil.
e. Damaged ignition switch.
f. Dirty/shorted engine stop switch.
g.Damaged exciter coil or ignition pickup coil (check ignition timing).
h. Damaged CDI unit.
Hope this helps,
Mike Martin,
Louisville, KY
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
possible carb problem.
Posted: Sun Aug 12, 2012 6:51 pm
by Michael Martin
If the engine sometimes doesn't crank, I would first look at the internal condition of the engine stop switch. But the Clymer suggestions "a" through "h" points out other causes.
Mike
________________________________
From: David Nichols
To: Michael Martin ; "
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 7:09 PM
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Possible carb problem.
The spark appears to be weak, it's not a "fat blue spark ", more of a yellow one. Thanks for this, I also have a Clymer but I was focused on a fuel issue. Now I need to determine the cause of the weak spark. Any tips on that would be appreciated...
Occasionally the engine won't crank. It's like there's a loose connection. I did have an issue awhile ago where the engine wouldn't crank unless the bars are turned to the left. It seemed to have corrected itself but maybe it's come up again and this is related.
-David
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
free parts 08
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 9:12 am
by matteeanne@yahoo.com
I have an oem skidplate and handle bars for 08 and later if anyone needs. I am at zip 98340
----- Reply message -----
From: "Ron Criswell"
To: "SniperOne"
Cc: "KLR List" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR V-Strom
Date: Sun, Aug 12, 2012 10:42 pm
I have a KLR, a 2009 Versys, a 2001 Concours. All 3 are great for different reasons. The KLRis a great all around cheap (that can be made expensive) bike. The Concours is great for the Interstate and 2 up. The Versys is just loads of fun but too cramped really for two up and not a dual sport. It does OK on gravel with more dual sport type tires. Stock tires are terrible in sand or deep gravel.
Criswell
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 12, 2012, at 11:29 PM, SniperOne wrote:
> LOL, well done Greg for stirring a great question. I went through this one 20+ years ago. Had '89 KLR for couple years, got girlfriend, tried a few 350+ mile days 2-up, got an earfull (for days on end), made a mistake...well, sort of.
>
> I will say this straight up, DO NOT take your better half for a test ride (or even let her park her tush on one in a showroom) on a true touring machine. The KLR will soon be in a corner of the garage collecting dust (or sold) and everything will revolve around the "comfy" machine (in my case a goldwing).
>
> When you used the term "sport touring" I immediately thought of the FJ from Yamaha, ST from Honda, Concourse from Kawasaki, class of bike. None of these are anywhere near as comfy as the true touring class machines for days of any signicant length, and neither is the VStorm.
>
> One of our fellow list'ers commented that the 1000 VStrom would be better suited for 2-up w/ gear, etc. I could not agree more with the more cc's suggestion. When you're loaded and bucking a headwind 2-up, there's just no substitute for cc's.
>
> For me the girlfriend exited, the goldwing was sold, and I got another KLR last year to quiet the off-road adventurer in me. Yet I find the 650 lacking a little on road trips - and a bit cumbersome for singletrack. I recently acquired a DR-Z for the singletrack, and while I'll keep the KLR, I think spring of '13 will bring something bigger for the adventure tours that's, well, "more comfy". At the moment the machine that holds the most promise for the money is the XT1200Z.
>
> My apologies for the long missive, yet my suggestion is: Take your significant other for a few test rides on several of the "adventure touring" machines (and don't let her get close to the true touring bikes). I'd be willing to bet the 2 of you will find one that's perfect (be it 990 adventure, 1200 Adventure, XTZ, etc). When that happens she will suddenly be on board like its all her idea. She'll be working the numbers, cutting the budgets and throwing money in the pot to make sure she (and you) gets this new "comfy" machine.
>
> For what it's worth,
> Randy
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg
> Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 6:28 PM
> To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] NKLR V-Strom
>
> Looking for opinions, I was considering looking for a sport touring bike to keep the KLR company, significant other has done several 400 to 500km days with me on KLR and would like something more comfortable.
>
> If It turns out that we actually do a lot of longer rides I would like something like the Sprint ST 1050 but right now I have the chance to buy an 08 650 V-Strom, perfect shape, full factory bags and a good price.
>
> Any thoughts out there on how they work 2 up on mostly long weekend trips on mostly secondary highways. I took it out for an hour test ride, she really liked it. Anyway any opinions are good...Have a great evening...Greg
>
> Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via web post |
>
> [The entire original message is not included]
>
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>
>
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possible carb problem.
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 10:58 am
by Ian Francisco
When was the last time the valves were checked? If one gets tight then the
engine can suddenly have all sorts of trouble starting and running. Sounds
like you've done the fuel system checks and the spark is there so if it's
not a clogged air filter, then the valves are about all that's left.
--
ian
http://www.scarletfuries.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931
My 97 KLR recently stopped while riding down the road. I was attempting to
pass a car and when it twisted the throttle it bogged. I was able to back
off the throttle and it maintained a constant speed for a few seconds then
it completely stopped and wouldn't restart. I have spark at the plug and I
replaced it with a new one. I cleaned the carb thoroughly.
I disassembled it completely, soaked in carb cleaner and blew out all
passages with compressed air. I inspected everything and it all looks good.
I had a rebuild kit and installed a new pilot jet, main jet, air screw and
all new gaskets. The petcock is working, I have clear fuel lines and I can
see the gas flowing while I crank the engine. I checked the carb float
valve and it's opening and closing. The air filter was recently cleaned and
it ran fine after that. I'm at a loss, can anyone think of something I've
missed? The one part that isn't in perfect shape is the enrichener plunger.
It had a
scratch on it that I polished out and I haven't been able to use it (really
haven't needed it here in Texas) because when the lever is moved it doesn't
close right. In the past it would run after the enrichener lever was moved
but it would bog and pop on deceleration until I pushed it back into the
carb body.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
possible carb problem.
Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2012 11:01 am
by David Nichols
Thanks, The valves were adjusted to max. clearance about 3,000 miles ago. Do you think they would have tightened up this quickly?
One thing I noticed when draining the float bowl was a little water in the gas. Maybe I got a bad tank of gas. How sensitive are KLR's to water in gas? I am planning on draining the tank when I get home tonight to see if there's more.
________________________________
From: Ian Francisco
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, August 13, 2012 10:58 AM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Possible carb problem.
When was the last time the valves were checked? If one gets tight then the
engine can suddenly have all sorts of trouble starting and running. Sounds
like you've done the fuel system checks and the spark is there so if it's
not a clogged air filter, then the valves are about all that's left.
--
ian
http://www.scarletfuries.com
http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931
My 97 KLR recently stopped while riding down the road. I was attempting to
pass a car and when it twisted the throttle it bogged. I was able to back
off the throttle and it maintained a constant speed for a few seconds then
it completely stopped and wouldn't restart. I have spark at the plug and I
replaced it with a new one. I cleaned the carb thoroughly.
I disassembled it completely, soaked in carb cleaner and blew out all
passages with compressed air. I inspected everything and it all looks good.
I had a rebuild kit and installed a new pilot jet, main jet, air screw and
all new gaskets. The petcock is working, I have clear fuel lines and I can
see the gas flowing while I crank the engine. I checked the carb float
valve and it's opening and closing. The air filter was recently cleaned and
it ran fine after that. I'm at a loss, can anyone think of something I've
missed? The one part that isn't in perfect shape is the enrichener plunger.
It had a
scratch on it that I polished out and I haven't been able to use it (really
haven't needed it here in Texas) because when the lever is moved it doesn't
close right. In the past it would run after the enrichener lever was moved
but it would bog and pop on deceleration until I pushed it back into the
carb body.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]