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suspension & etc.

Posted: Sat Apr 07, 2012 7:40 pm
by Ian Francisco
I know the pre-'08 models have more travel than the '08-up models, something like 9 in. vs. 7 in. So I'm not sure if the '08 shock itself limits the travel or if it can be used on '07 and earlier bikes. I'm sure replacing the spring on either bike is a good way to get the rear suspension to work better. A cheaper route is to go with raising links which effectively firm up the stock shock. The only problem would be if your legs were on the short side. The KLR is big and heavy enough that you don't want to be putting a foot down anyway, except when stopping. I'm 5'9", 195 lbs without gear and wear a 30-inch inseam and can get both feet down easily with the stock setup. It sags three inches when I sit on it, which is 30% of total travel, about right actually. I bought a newer used stock shock and will try maybe 1/2 in. raising links to start when the time comes. I will also be in the market for fork springs. I recall posts saying that straight rate fork springs are the way to go, better than progressive wound. Anybody got any numbers that worked for them? Spring rate vs. body weight/payload. Info is much appreciated. On a side note, just got a Shinko 705 for the rear. Have yet to mount it. Been liking the TKC80 front I put on two weeks ago. Running it at 25psi and getting all the grip I need, at least until the Shinko goes on. I was slower than my friends last time I rode with them on the Kendas which had about 5k on them at the time. Couldn't push the pace. Both front and rear tires got saw-toothed from braking, and I ran them fairly hard (34/38psi). Guess I need to stop using the brakes so much :) Pic here: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wkNiTWfSyKrOeauLj4Hyr9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink -- ian http://www.scarletfuries.com http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

suspension & etc.

Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:10 pm
by Jeff Khoury
Before you go replacing springs in your front-end, try the spacer mod and fork oil change I mentioned last week (step-by-step instructions included). I've always felt the front was undersprung and had considered upgrading the springs. By doing this mod I've decided I don't need to. It feels fantastic now and fluid included the price was under 20 bucks and took less than an hour. -Jeff Khoury
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ian Francisco" To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Saturday, April 7, 2012 5:40:52 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] suspension & etc. I know the pre-'08 models have more travel than the '08-up models, something like 9 in. vs. 7 in. So I'm not sure if the '08 shock itself limits the travel or if it can be used on '07 and earlier bikes. I'm sure replacing the spring on either bike is a good way to get the rear suspension to work better. A cheaper route is to go with raising links which effectively firm up the stock shock. The only problem would be if your legs were on the short side. The KLR is big and heavy enough that you don't want to be putting a foot down anyway, except when stopping. I'm 5'9", 195 lbs without gear and wear a 30-inch inseam and can get both feet down easily with the stock setup. It sags three inches when I sit on it, which is 30% of total travel, about right actually. I bought a newer used stock shock and will try maybe 1/2 in. raising links to start when the time comes. I will also be in the market for fork springs. I recall posts saying that straight rate fork springs are the way to go, better than progressive wound. Anybody got any numbers that worked for them? Spring rate vs. body weight/payload. Info is much appreciated. On a side note, just got a Shinko 705 for the rear. Have yet to mount it. Been liking the TKC80 front I put on two weeks ago. Running it at 25psi and getting all the grip I need, at least until the Shinko goes on. I was slower than my friends last time I rode with them on the Kendas which had about 5k on them at the time. Couldn't push the pace. Both front and rear tires got saw-toothed from braking, and I ran them fairly hard (34/38psi). Guess I need to stop using the brakes so much :) Pic here: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/wkNiTWfSyKrOeauLj4Hyr9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink -- ian http://www.scarletfuries.com http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Scarlet-Furies/121218125931 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

why didn't you guys tell me...

Posted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 1:27 pm
by RobertWichert
It rides fine on the street, albeit feeling a bit stiffer. It doesn't "squat" as much when I hit the throttle hard coming out of a turn. I don't know if that is good or bad. I kind of liked that. I haven't set the sag yet. Maybe I'll do that today. Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================
On 4/7/2012 10:25 AM, RobertWichert wrote: > > OK, it's back together. With: > Nicely repainted muffler (love that stock muffler!); > freshly torqued nuts, bolts and washers; > lots of nice red Loctite (I know it's not the right type to use, don't > waste your breath); > VERY clean side covers, inside and out; > New Progressive Shock (the reason for the whole deal); > and I learned a lot too. > > I learned: > 1. The sidestand switch is a kludge of impressive proportions, designed > by Rubus H. Goldberg II no doubt. Use a CABLE from a lever to move a > SPRING LOADED lever to actuate a SWITCH? Really? And mount it so that > it explodes if you remove it? And hide it behind a sleazy plastic piece > held by a screw and a slot? Nice work! I had half an idea to throw the > whole mess away. > > 2. The proper routing of the various vacuum hoses that service the > CALIFORNIAN EDITION. > > 3. That the rear brake fluid reservoir has a backing plate. > > 4. That the rubber boot between the carb and the airbox doesn't like me. > > And so much more! > > The Progressive shock is supposed to be one inch shorter than stock, and > I switched to one-inch lowering links, so it theoretically should be the > same height as with the two inch lowering links, but the lean angle on > the sidestand says it's higher than before. > > Haven't ridden it yet. > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > +1 916 966 9060 > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > =============================================== > > On 4/4/2012 6:19 AM, RobertWichert wrote: > > > > How big a pain in the *ss the rubber boot between the carb and the > > airbox is to remove and replace? I mean, it's really jammed in there, > > and doesn't want to go back together without a LOT of encouragement, > > including removing it from the airbox and fitting it to the carb first > > and then onto the airbox, or maybe not. And what is that goop around > > the airbox penetration? Gorilla snot? It looks like some sort of > > rubber cement, not silicone. Any hints? > > > > I had no idea that part of the new shock was going to be such a pain. > > > > -- > > Robert Wichert P.Eng. LEED AP BD&C > > +1 916 966 9060 > > FAX +1 916 966 9068 > > > > =============================================== > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]