top 10 for us klr cheapskates

[David Nichols]

My father in law's 2007 KLR650 is blowing the 20 amp main fuse. He can hook up the battery and all the lights work, horn works but when he presses the starter button the fuse blows. Any ideas where and how to start troubleshooting? Starter relay? Starter motor? -David [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 21 Mar 2012 18:22:11 -0700 (PDT) David Nichols writes:

> My father in law's 2007 KLR650 is blowing the 20 amp main fuse. He > can hook up the battery and all the lights work, horn works but when > he presses the starter button the fuse blows. Any ideas where and > how to start troubleshooting? Starter relay? Starter motor? > > -David

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> David, I just studied the wiring diagram for a few minutes. Here's what I would be checking. The power goes from the 20 amp fuse to the ignition switch in a white wire. That much must be good as otherwise the fuse would be blowing every time it was installed. From the ignition switch in the run position it goes to a brown wire that powers the horn, front and rear brake light switches, the turn signal relay, goes to the 10 amp fuse for the headlight etc and powers the starter via the engine stop switch to the starter button to the starter circuit relay to the starter relay (solenoid) and the CDI and finally to ground. So... if with the key on the fuse doesn't blow then I'd apply the front and rear brakes and check the fuse. Then I'd try the turn signals. When the fuse still doesn't blow that would kind of limit the problem to the power section between the front brake light switch to the engine stop switch to the starter button and then the starter relay and solenoid. Since it only blows when the starter button is pressed I would unplug the small wire connector on the starter solenoid. It's located under the black plastic cover above the left footpeg. Then I'd push the starter button and see if the fuse blows. I bet it does. That will indicate a short between the starter button and the solenoid. I'd then unplug the connector to the starter circuit relay which I think is just below the starter solenoid and behind the side stand switch. It's the cylinder shaped relay (about the size of a roll of quarters) and probably has a rubber cover on the top protecting the connector. Once that is unplugged I would again press the starter button and see if the fuse blows. Again I bet it does. Once more that indicates a short between the starter button and the two connections you've unplugged. The wire that is in question is yellow/red. I would then inspect the wiring from the starter button to the solenoid looking for the short. Since it has a connection below the instrument cluster I would probably go there first. You'll probably have to pull the fuel tank to inspect the wiring along the frame backbone and down around the relay and solenoid. Again, I think the problem will be in the yellow/red wire. Look for rubs near the steering head on the left side as there could be some wiring movement there. Hope this is helpful. Let us know how it goes and if you have more questions. It will probably take some sharp eyes and a flashlight to find this. Oh, with the relay and solenoid disconnected you could put a small lightbulb inplace of the fuse. (I would probably pull the 10 amp headlight fuse if I was going to use a lightbulb as an indicator just to reduce the load.) Then when you hold the starter button down the lightbulb will light as long as you have a short. You could watch the lit lightbulb while moving wires. When the lightbulb flickers or goes out you are moving the short and breaking the connection. That might help you find the problem area. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 . . ____________________________________________________________ Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210

[revmaaatin]

Jeff- That was a most excellent reply. revmaaatin.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Wed, 21 Mar 2012 18:22:11 -0700 (PDT) David Nichols > writes: > > My father in law's 2007 KLR650 is blowing the 20 amp main fuse. He > > can hook up the battery and all the lights work, horn works but when > > he presses the starter button the fuse blows. Any ideas where and > > how to start troubleshooting? Starter relay? Starter motor? > > > > -David > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > David, > > I just studied the wiring diagram for a few minutes. Here's what I would > be checking. > > The power goes from the 20 amp fuse to the ignition switch in a white > wire. That much must be good as otherwise the fuse would be blowing > every time it was installed. > > From the ignition switch in the run position it goes to a brown wire that > powers the horn, front and rear brake light switches, the turn signal > relay, goes to the 10 amp fuse for the headlight etc and powers the > starter via the engine stop switch to the starter button to the starter > circuit relay to the starter relay (solenoid) and the CDI and finally to > ground. > > So... if with the key on the fuse doesn't blow then I'd apply the front > and rear brakes and check the fuse. Then I'd try the turn signals. When > the fuse still doesn't blow that would kind of limit the problem to the > power section between the front brake light switch to the engine stop > switch to the starter button and then the starter relay and solenoid. > > Since it only blows when the starter button is pressed I would unplug the > small wire connector on the starter solenoid. It's located under the > black plastic cover above the left footpeg. Then I'd push the starter > button and see if the fuse blows. I bet it does. That will indicate a > short between the starter button and the solenoid. > > I'd then unplug the connector to the starter circuit relay which I think > is just below the starter solenoid and behind the side stand switch. > It's the cylinder shaped relay (about the size of a roll of quarters) and > probably has a rubber cover on the top protecting the connector. Once > that is unplugged I would again press the starter button and see if the > fuse blows. Again I bet it does. Once more that indicates a short > between the starter button and the two connections you've unplugged. > > The wire that is in question is yellow/red. I would then inspect the > wiring from the starter button to the solenoid looking for the short. > Since it has a connection below the instrument cluster I would probably > go there first. > > You'll probably have to pull the fuel tank to inspect the wiring along > the frame backbone and down around the relay and solenoid. > > Again, I think the problem will be in the yellow/red wire. Look for rubs > near the steering head on the left side as there could be some wiring > movement there. > > Hope this is helpful. Let us know how it goes and if you have more > questions. It will probably take some sharp eyes and a flashlight to > find this. > > Oh, with the relay and solenoid disconnected you could put a small > lightbulb inplace of the fuse. (I would probably pull the 10 amp > headlight fuse if I was going to use a lightbulb as an indicator just to > reduce the load.) Then when you hold the starter button down the > lightbulb will light as long as you have a short. You could watch the > lit lightbulb while moving wires. When the lightbulb flickers or goes > out you are moving the short and breaking the connection. That might > help you find the problem area. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > . > . > > ____________________________________________________________ > Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! > http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 >

[david zawadzki]

Wow! Talk about detail...

On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 12:07 PM, revmaaatin wrote: > ** > > > Jeff- > That was a most excellent reply. > > revmaaatin. > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > On Wed, 21 Mar 2012 18:22:11 -0700 (PDT) David Nichols > > writes: > > > My father in law's 2007 KLR650 is blowing the 20 amp main fuse. He > > > can hook up the battery and all the lights work, horn works but when > > > he presses the starter button the fuse blows. Any ideas where and > > > how to start troubleshooting? Starter relay? Starter motor? > > > > > > -David > > <><><><><><> > > <><><><><><> > > > > David, > > > > I just studied the wiring diagram for a few minutes. Here's what I would > > be checking. > > > > The power goes from the 20 amp fuse to the ignition switch in a white > > wire. That much must be good as otherwise the fuse would be blowing > > every time it was installed. > > > > From the ignition switch in the run position it goes to a brown wire that > > powers the horn, front and rear brake light switches, the turn signal > > relay, goes to the 10 amp fuse for the headlight etc and powers the > > starter via the engine stop switch to the starter button to the starter > > circuit relay to the starter relay (solenoid) and the CDI and finally to > > ground. > > > > So... if with the key on the fuse doesn't blow then I'd apply the front > > and rear brakes and check the fuse. Then I'd try the turn signals. When > > the fuse still doesn't blow that would kind of limit the problem to the > > power section between the front brake light switch to the engine stop > > switch to the starter button and then the starter relay and solenoid. > > > > Since it only blows when the starter button is pressed I would unplug the > > small wire connector on the starter solenoid. It's located under the > > black plastic cover above the left footpeg. Then I'd push the starter > > button and see if the fuse blows. I bet it does. That will indicate a > > short between the starter button and the solenoid. > > > > I'd then unplug the connector to the starter circuit relay which I think > > is just below the starter solenoid and behind the side stand switch. > > It's the cylinder shaped relay (about the size of a roll of quarters) and > > probably has a rubber cover on the top protecting the connector. Once > > that is unplugged I would again press the starter button and see if the > > fuse blows. Again I bet it does. Once more that indicates a short > > between the starter button and the two connections you've unplugged. > > > > The wire that is in question is yellow/red. I would then inspect the > > wiring from the starter button to the solenoid looking for the short. > > Since it has a connection below the instrument cluster I would probably > > go there first. > > > > You'll probably have to pull the fuel tank to inspect the wiring along > > the frame backbone and down around the relay and solenoid. > > > > Again, I think the problem will be in the yellow/red wire. Look for rubs > > near the steering head on the left side as there could be some wiring > > movement there. > > > > Hope this is helpful. Let us know how it goes and if you have more > > questions. It will probably take some sharp eyes and a flashlight to > > find this. > > > > Oh, with the relay and solenoid disconnected you could put a small > > lightbulb inplace of the fuse. (I would probably pull the 10 amp > > headlight fuse if I was going to use a lightbulb as an indicator just to > > reduce the load.) Then when you hold the starter button down the > > lightbulb will light as long as you have a short. You could watch the > > lit lightbulb while moving wires. When the lightbulb flickers or goes > > out you are moving the short and breaking the connection. That might > > help you find the problem area. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > > > . > > . > > > > __________________________________________________________ > > Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! > > http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Nichols]

I agree, thanks Jeff! ________________________________ From: david zawadzki To: revmaaatin Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, March 22, 2012 11:14 AM Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Starter button blowing the 20 amp fuse. Wow! Talk about detail...

On Thu, Mar 22, 2012 at 12:07 PM, revmaaatin wrote: > ** > > > Jeff- > That was a most excellent reply. > > revmaaatin. > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > On Wed, 21 Mar 2012 18:22:11 -0700 (PDT) David Nichols > > writes: > > > My father in law's 2007 KLR650 is blowing the 20 amp main fuse. He > > > can hook up the battery and all the lights work, horn works but when > > > he presses the starter button the fuse blows. Any ideas where and > > > how to start troubleshooting? Starter relay? Starter motor? > > > > > > -David > > <><><><><><> > > <><><><><><> > > > > David, > > > > I just studied the wiring diagram for a few minutes. Here's what I would > > be checking. > > > > The power goes from the 20 amp fuse to the ignition switch in a white > > wire. That much must be good as otherwise the fuse would be blowing > > every time it was installed. > > > > From the ignition switch in the run position it goes to a brown wire that > > powers the horn, front and rear brake light switches, the turn signal > > relay, goes to the 10 amp fuse for the headlight etc and powers the > > starter via the engine stop switch to the starter button to the starter > > circuit relay to the starter relay (solenoid) and the CDI and finally to > > ground. > > > > So... if with the key on the fuse doesn't blow then I'd apply the front > > and rear brakes and check the fuse. Then I'd try the turn signals. When > > the fuse still doesn't blow that would kind of limit the problem to the > > power section between the front brake light switch to the engine stop > > switch to the starter button and then the starter relay and solenoid. > > > > Since it only blows when the starter button is pressed I would unplug the > > small wire connector on the starter solenoid. It's located under the > > black plastic cover above the left footpeg. Then I'd push the starter > > button and see if the fuse blows. I bet it does. That will indicate a > > short between the starter button and the solenoid. > > > > I'd then unplug the connector to the starter circuit relay which I think > > is just below the starter solenoid and behind the side stand switch. > > It's the cylinder shaped relay (about the size of a roll of quarters) and > > probably has a rubber cover on the top protecting the connector. Once > > that is unplugged I would again press the starter button and see if the > > fuse blows. Again I bet it does. Once more that indicates a short > > between the starter button and the two connections you've unplugged. > > > > The wire that is in question is yellow/red. I would then inspect the > > wiring from the starter button to the solenoid looking for the short. > > Since it has a connection below the instrument cluster I would probably > > go there first. > > > > You'll probably have to pull the fuel tank to inspect the wiring along > > the frame backbone and down around the relay and solenoid. > > > > Again, I think the problem will be in the yellow/red wire. Look for rubs > > near the steering head on the left side as there could be some wiring > > movement there. > > > > Hope this is helpful. Let us know how it goes and if you have more > > questions. It will probably take some sharp eyes and a flashlight to > > find this. > > > > Oh, with the relay and solenoid disconnected you could put a small > > lightbulb inplace of the fuse. (I would probably pull the 10 amp > > headlight fuse if I was going to use a lightbulb as an indicator just to > > reduce the load.) Then when you hold the starter button down the > > lightbulb will light as long as you have a short. You could watch the > > lit lightbulb while moving wires. When the lightbulb flickers or goes > > out you are moving the short and breaking the connection. That might > > help you find the problem area. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650 > > > > . > > . > > > > __________________________________________________________ > > Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat! > > http://www.juno.com/freeemail?refcd=JUTAGOUT1FREM0210 > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Eddie]

I have a Stebel on the KLR and my girlfriend on her GS500 + her Toyota Yaris. I swear the Yaris and KLR came from the factory with the same goofy horn. They look identical. eddie

> [Original Message] > From: Jeff Khoury > To: > Cc: KLR650 list DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> > Date: 3/25/2012 8:30:58 PM > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Top 10 for us KLR Cheapskates > > I have the Stebel on my KLR. It scares the *%&^ out of people. > > Especially when I install it and don't tell my brother. > > I said: "Hey Justin, I think there's something wrong with the horn on the

KLR, could you check it out for me?"

> > *evil laugh*. > > -Jeff Khoury >