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oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 7:55 am
by George Bynum
"Jeff Khoury", DsrtEgl, said ...
> The first number refers to the cold pumping viscosity, the lower the
> better. A 0w-40 and a 15w-40 have the same viscosity at operating
> temperature.
+1 on the above. The only clarification I'll offer is that the "operating" measurement is made
at 100C, and engine oil often exceeds that "some". The viscosity curves MAY not track
exactly ... but we usually ignore that minor difference.
> It will make no difference, in fact... they're better for your engine
> because they pump better at startup, which is where most wear happens.
I disagree a little here. If the 0W50 remained 0W50 through its life, there is absolutely no
argument that it would be excellent. According to most experts, the issue is that the wider
the spread in viscosities at reference temperatures, the shorter the time until the products
"shear down".
This shearing seems to occur more quickly in gear systems than in engine only systems, in
other words, common transmission/engine sump systems are more "damaging" to multi-
viscosity oils than engine only.
I'm one who likes the 5W40 Rotella T6 ... in the winter. I ride about 4000 miles a year, and
use "regular" 15W40 Rotella in my spring change, the synthetic in my fall change. In
particular, I find the cold cranking superior with the 5W fluid ... although not by much. In my
OPINION, the superior pumpability (is that a word?) helps the first 1 or 2 minutes as well.
I find that the shifting with the T6 near EOL (1500-2000 miles) is poorer than with the regular
at its EOL (2000-2500 miles).
Just my 2 cents worth ... I'm a hydraulics guy with lots of oil experience.
oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:03 am
by Jeffrey
oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:11 am
by Jeffrey
http://revolutionmarine.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/oilcoolers.html
Anybody rigged an oil cooler to their KLR?
A power steering cooler would be easiest to fit. Some cars just have a copper line run in front of the radiator.
I have an extra KLR oil line from my blown engine that I could cutup/splice to make work.
J#3
oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:24 am
by Jeff Saline
On Tue, 06 Dec 2011 15:11:07 -0000 "Jeffrey"
writes:
>
http://revolutionmarine.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/oilcoolers.html
>
> Anybody rigged an oil cooler to their KLR?
>
> A power steering cooler would be easiest to fit. Some cars just
> have a copper line run in front of the radiator.
>
> I have an extra KLR oil line from my blown engine that I could
> cutup/splice to make work.
>
> J#3
<><><><><><>
<><><><><><>
If I recall correctly... Wattman's data and our conversations suggest
the oil usually doesn't get anywhere near as hot as a guy might really
want it to get. Takes a lot of hard riding to get the oil to operating
temps. Probably not much need for an oil cooler. I don't recall ever
hearing about someone installing one on a KLR.
I think you could check Wattman's website to see his public data and
comments.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650
.
.
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oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:31 am
by Jeffrey
In the summer when I am riding in the desert or just around LA, CA in traffic, my (coolant) temp gauge regularly goes 3/4 of the way to the right. I would assume that also means the oil is very hot also.
J#3
oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:49 am
by Jeff Saline
On Tue, 06 Dec 2011 15:31:03 -0000 "Jeffrey"
writes:
> In the summer when I am riding in the desert or just around LA, CA in
> traffic, my (coolant) temp gauge regularly goes 3/4 of the way to
> the right. I would assume that also means the oil is very hot
> also.
>
> J#3
<><><><><><>
<><><><><><>
Logical thinking but I think Wattman's data showed the oil was still
pretty cool compared to coolant temps.
I think about 3/4 of the gauge is 240-250 degrees. Kind of depends on
what a person is referring to as 3/4. : )
You and your KLR sound like good candidates for a second radiator. I
found it works wonders on my KLR cooling system temps.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650
.
.
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oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:55 am
by Jeffrey
I looked at the KLR650 Oil Line on the running engine and the extra one I have from the blown engine. It doesn't look like much work to cut out a section near the carb and weld in a line that would go to front edge of the left side of the barrel/below the radiator exposed into the wind but still protected from hazards(and back). Could do a little maze of tubing there or add an actual small oil cooler there.
J#3
oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 10:42 am
by Jeff Khoury
I agree with you that with T6 shifting gets "chunky" near the end of its life. Actually, I don't find that to be as big of a deal as being hard to find neutral, which is the biggest commplaint I have with it.
I've found that the Mobil 1 "turbodiesel" 5w-40 does not exhibit this behaviour.
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Bynum"
To: "DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 6, 2011 5:55:12 AM
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Oil viscosities
"Jeff Khoury", DsrtEgl, said ...
> The first number refers to the cold pumping viscosity, the lower the
> better. A 0w-40 and a 15w-40 have the same viscosity at operating
> temperature.
+1 on the above. The only clarification I'll offer is that the "operating" measurement is made
at 100C, and engine oil often exceeds that "some". The viscosity curves MAY not track
exactly ... but we usually ignore that minor difference.
> It will make no difference, in fact... they're better for your engine
> because they pump better at startup, which is where most wear happens.
I disagree a little here. If the 0W50 remained 0W50 through its life, there is absolutely no
argument that it would be excellent. According to most experts, the issue is that the wider
the spread in viscosities at reference temperatures, the shorter the time until the products
"shear down".
This shearing seems to occur more quickly in gear systems than in engine only systems, in
other words, common transmission/engine sump systems are more "damaging" to multi-
viscosity oils than engine only.
I'm one who likes the 5W40 Rotella T6 ... in the winter. I ride about 4000 miles a year, and
use "regular" 15W40 Rotella in my spring change, the synthetic in my fall change. In
particular, I find the cold cranking superior with the 5W fluid ... although not by much. In my
OPINION, the superior pumpability (is that a word?) helps the first 1 or 2 minutes as well.
I find that the shifting with the T6 near EOL (1500-2000 miles) is poorer than with the regular
at its EOL (2000-2500 miles).
Just my 2 cents worth ... I'm a hydraulics guy with lots of oil experience.
oil viscosities
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:07 am
by Jeffrey
Diesel Mobil 1 is hard to fine esp. on sale.
Though, I have used conventional diesel oils for gas cars and motos for years. Diesel oils just have more detergents in them. And if they are rec'd for turbo diesels, they can handle heat well also.
J#3
choke cable eliminator on ebay.
Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:16 am
by dat brooklyn bum
Best fix for a KLR rider (ie: cheapest), is to wait until you break the handlebar mounted lever (why replace it if it ain't broken yet). Then, cut the cable about 6-8" away from the carb, remove the sheathing to expose a long enough section of the cable itself and make a loop out of it. When I did this to my first KLR, I was able to make the loop just the right length to pull it out and hook it over an allen bolt that sat as a spare where the sidestand safety switch and housing used to be mounted.
Or you could give me $1000, and I will fly out and do it for you. I'll even bring a chrome-plated allen bolt if you want some bling out of your cha-ching.
da Vermonster