dished or stepped corbin?

[Jeffrey]

carb on or off? starter motor on or off? valve cover on or off? I know you want it on to keep sh*t from getting in but if you need the clearance? I will adjust the valves before I put it in anyways. I know to do the doohickey in the bike because of torque reqd on rotor bolt. Thanks, J

[pdstreeter@mmm.com]

"Jeffrey" nakedwaterskier@... asked:

>carb on or off? starter motor on or off? valve cover on or off? >I know you want it on to keep sh*t from getting in but if you need >the clearance? I will adjust the valves before I put it in anyways.

Carb off, starter motor on. Valve cover on. Good luck, Paul Streeter [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solut]

Carb off, no question about it. If you have to remove the valve cover use a very clean rag, an old tshirt or piece of a bed sheet works. drape it over the top end and duct tape around the cylinder keeping it in place and closing off the carb hole. Chris

>carb on or off? starter motor on or off? valve cover on or off? I know

you

>want it on to keep sh*t from getting in but if you need the clearance? >I will adjust the valves before I put it in anyways.

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[mechanizeinc]

Unless you want to save weight and make it a bit lighter to lift and maneuver by yourself I say leave all that stuff on, except the carb. Without the carb, you can get the engine in with the sub-frame and airbox in place. With the engine in, it's way easier to get the carb on with the airbox and sub-frame detached... at least from the upper frame and pivoted out of the way. I loosen the bottom bolts, detach electrical and pull the radiator overflow hose slack and support the sub-frame, airbox and fender assembly on the rear tire with a short length of 2x4 on the inner fender. This makes fitting the carb boots much easier. Although with patience, a long screwdriver, basic Jiu-Jitsu skills and no minimum amount of swearing, you can wedge the carb in there with everything in place. Actually now that I think about it... the valve cover. This is where it's beneficial to be a complete slacker. What I mean is your wiring harness on the frame needs to be out of the way. I've worked on a couple of KLRs that I could NOT get any or enough slack to move the wiring harness to the side of the frame, providing the necessary clearance to the valve cover and it was easier to pull the valve cover rather than risk wiring/electrical issues. Another thing. Use tape to protect the frame from scratches. Even if you have help removing or installing a motor. I use masking tape on the frame and then cover it with another layer of duct tape. The duct tape has better protective qualities but readily leaves residue upon removal. If you want to save the sprocket from an engine, pull it with the engine mounted in the frame. Mech

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" wrote: > > carb on or off? starter motor on or off? valve cover on or off? I know you want it on > to keep sh*t from getting in but if you need the clearance? I will adjust the valves before I put it in anyways. > > I know to do the doohickey in the bike because of torque reqd on rotor bolt. > > Thanks, > J >

[Jeffrey]

Thanks Carb off Swap the countershaft sprocket while you can still use rear brake. Valve cover on and install from left side(more valve cover to frame clearance on that side) Adjust valves before you stick in engine. Starter doesn't seem to matter much. Remove/move fan and temp switch 2 people...I am going to use an upside down milk crate to stage engines on way out and way in. Doohickey do in frame; need leverage/force for rotor bolt. Any other hints? Thanks, J#3

[James W. Flower]

Upside of flate: I keep my flat seat because I like to sit forward or back depending on circumstances, either road condition or changing positions on longer cruises. Upside of dished (after using one for 15 minutes and thinking about it): The lesser distance to the ground of a dished seat was attractive (but not that attractive- my A13 has lowering links and a 1" shorter shock; might put the stock bones back in). Possible upside of dished: I have an article somewhere that says male motorcyclists get sexual problems because the seat bears on their perineum (the area between anus and scrotum). Same with bicycles, and I've experienced that particular discomfort. I suspect any seating position that lowered your butt in relation to your feet - thus putting your thighs at a more acute angle to your back - would move your weight back onto your butt and help avoid the problem. I got a 2009 seat for my A13, as a cheap way to stay comfortable for longer. It's firmer, and I'm wondering if it's got more potential for causing that problem. I haven't yet actually felt it like I did with the wrong bicycle seat, but I haven't been on a long ride. Other than the perineum problem, it seems longterm comfort would depend on design and materials of specific seat, weight/size of rider, etc. -JWF

[mechanizeinc]

I remove not only the radiator fan, but the entire radiator. Only three bolts. Mech

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeffrey" wrote: > > Thanks > > Carb off > > Swap the countershaft sprocket while you can still use rear brake. > > Valve cover on and install from left side(more valve cover to frame clearance on that side) > > Adjust valves before you stick in engine. > > Starter doesn't seem to matter much. > > Remove/move fan and temp switch > > 2 people...I am going to use an upside down milk crate to stage engines on way out and way in. > > Doohickey do in frame; need leverage/force for rotor bolt. > > Any other hints? > > Thanks, > J#3 >