fuel starved klr

[Troy]

The fan on my 2004 isn't coming on when it should, resulting in high temp at slow speed. Has a new therostat so don't think that is the problem; suggestions on where to start?

[Marc]

Temp sender ________________________________ From: Troy To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Friday, July 29, 2011 3:30 PM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] fan problem The fan on my 2004 isn't coming on when it should, resulting in high temp at slow speed. Has a new therostat so don't think that is the problem; suggestions on where to start? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Michael Martin]

1. Disconnect the wire at the fan switch which is screwed into the rear face of bottom radiator tank. 2. Ground that connector to an engine fin. If the fan turns on, the fan switch is probably faulty. 3. If the fan does not turn on, check the fan fuse. 4. If the fuse is faulty, replace it and repeat steps 1 and 2. 5. With a known good fuse installed, check the fan relay to see whether it is supplying voltage to the fan motor when that wire is grounded as in step 2. This ought to get you started. HTH, Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ________________________________ From: Troy The fan on my 2004 isn't coming on when it should, resulting in high temp at slow speed. Has a new therostat so don't think that is the problem; suggestions on where to start? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Saline]

On Fri, 29 Jul 2011 20:30:37 -0000 "Troy" writes:

> The fan on my 2004 isn't coming on when it should, resulting in high > temp at slow speed. Has a new therostat so don't think that is the > problem; suggestions on where to start?

<><><><><><> <><><><><><> Troy, First thing I'd do if I was working the issue is to change the coolant. If it's the original coolant it's at least 7 years old. Make the mix no stronger than 50/50. Next thing I'd look at is the condition of the radiator. If the fins are mangled in any way I'd be straightening them. I'd also make sure the air passages weren't blocked. I check the fan blades to make sure they were turning when the fan is operating. I'd also make sure the fan was turning in the correct direction so air is being pulled through the radiator. It sounds like the fan is coming on but just later than you think it should. You could remove the switch from the bottom of the radiator and test it to see if it is working as designed. The test is in the Clymer repair manual in the electrical section. The test is putting the switch in a pot of water and heating the water while measuring resistance of the switch. You must be accurate in measuring water temp. Specs are: Ambient Temp Infinity On Position (above 94 degrees C [201 degrees F]) Infinity rising to 0.5 ohms Off Position (below 91 degrees C [196 degrees F]) Declining to infinity When the switch tests good you could then move on to coolant flow and inspect the impeller in the coolant pump on the right side of the engine. The temp sender in the head only measures coolant temp in part of the head. It has nothing to do with when the fan comes on. Now the big question is what makes you say the fan isn't coming on when it should? The position of the temp gauge needle. Puking coolant. Something else? Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . . ____________________________________________________________ Penny Stock Jumping 3000% Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4e33fab6c2f6f2c9f38st05vuc

[Troy]

Thanks for all the help. I replaced the fuse and checked all the wiring (although I couldn't see anything wrong with the fuse), changed the fluid and it started to work. Again thanks for the advice, it's the first time I have used the group but have been following / reading the discussions for years.

[revmaaatin]

List- I offer you the short and long answer to my own on-going fuel starvation problem: SHORT-- Applying shop-air to the fuel cap vent system appears to have cleared up a venting problem in the gas cap. This problem manifested itself as fuel starvation at temperatures at/above 90F. LONG- Last summer, I experienced a fuel starved KLR (1998) that only occurred at temps at/above ~90F. Like most any problem, not all `symptoms' necessarily have anything to do with the actual problem. In PM conversation with FRED, he is experiencing a similar problem with a 'local' bike as well. We discuss the possibility ty of the gas cap being the problem and the 'cap' containing numerous small springs that make it work 'properly'. The initial symptoms manifested themselves as my son (2001 KLR) and I (1998 KLR) departed East from Yellowstone National Park after buying the only fuel available: 10% ethanol; which I avoid like the plague due to my own previous experience with vapor locking at temperatures above 90F. After the ethanol fuel was long consumed, I was confident the problem was not a ethanol/vapor lock problem. Feel free to insert your experience as well. I feel sorry for you guys that have not choice! in alcohol enhanced fuel. Back to Aug, 2010: As afternoon temps increase, my bike began to stumble from fuel starvation. I stumbled into Cody, WY after numerous stops to drain the carb, hoping for some relief. The following morning, it ran 'like a Cadillac' and I felt it was cured. Historically, the 2001 was the bike that stumbled on 10% ethanol and it was running faultlessly. Two tank fulls later, it is still bucking at temperatures above 90F and will barely pull itself (worse case) at more than 35mph. What we did notice that in the mountains increasing altitudes and decreasing temperatures, the 98 bike ran better. = temp dependent problem. It continued that way for another 500 miles; it got hot, I went slowly. As an intermediate hope, I isolated the fuel line, wrapping it with a thin, foil-backed bubble wrap hoping it would help. ah, no. As soon as it hit 90F, the bike was fuel starving again. Summer-10' transitioned into fall--many tanks of gas went through the bike without any hesitations--until the transfer-ride to our new home in late June-11'; the temps hit 90F seven miles from the finish line and the bike started starving. Nutz. Earlier, last summer, I had replaced the previous leaking petcock diaphragm; so I did not think that was the problem. Could be, but not likely. June 2011: Both bikes are again together--seven miles from the finish line: 98' Acts like vapor lock, but it is not 10%ethenol. 2001 bike is just humming along; so it is not likely a fuel quality issue. hmmm. For several weeks, I have been thinking this is about 'vents'. Some suggested the rubber mushrooms (my term) inside the gas cap as being a likely culprit. The mushrooms look like tiny barbells to keep fuel in the tank when the bike takes a dirt nap. Dirty, gummy barbells/mushroom might be causing some restriction. Worth looking at. I was reticent to remove the cap and disassemble it due to my own decreasing ability to see small things AND the present workbench/shop looks like someone has just moved. coughed. (moving: what a mess) Hooked up a discarded, medical-oxygen hose and attempted to blow breath through the vent system of the gas cap. Seemed restricted, but flowed better after the 2d-3rd puff than the first. Describe this to friend/poster Jeff Saline; we then used his very precise mechanical air at 10psi and the audible first squirt seemed restricted from the tank side to the overflow hose. One vent hole in the tank did not initially flow freely when air pressure was applied to the large nipple on the fuel cap. We gradually increased the pressure in 5-psi increments to 25 psi; satisfied the vent was now free(r) and clear. Yesterday, the temperature 'felt' like it was nearing 90F or more; no OAT gauge, just that seat of the pants feel--like opening the oven and getting a blast in the face you roll across the prairie. I felt confident that if the problem still existed, it would be back again to day. Throttle at 5200rpm for 22+ miles and nary a hesitation. Rounding the corner between Sturgis's Buffalo Chip and the Full Throttle Saloon, the marquis states 89F. shrug. close enough (I hope). I think, success! that was it. A restricted gas cap and vent line that was not allowing the tank to properly vent. Alternate solutions suggest opening the gas cap while riding. I think I will pass on that one. The other was to cannablize the 01 gas cap and see if the problem moves from one bike to the other. That was not done; but considered and will be done if this is not the cure. Today's temperatures are forecast to be hotter than 90F. About 3pm MDST, I will give it another 30 mile test at 5K rpms. revmaaatin.

[ron criswell]

Just for a little more info on this, when I was in Moab this June going up a fairly challenging hill, I looked down and my heat Gage was all the way over to H. The fan wasn't coming on. I checked a couple of things but then noticed my lights and turn signals were not working either. I rode back to my truck keeping my speed up so as the wind would keep it cool enough. Later I discovered a plug underneath the speedo and gates had jarred itself loose with all the banging around. It probably wasn't connected very well when I installed a mod to my wiring a while back. Criswell Sent from my iPad

On Jul 30, 2011, at 10:52 AM, TROY wrote: > Thanks for all the help. I replaced the fuse and checked all the wiring (although I couldn't see anything wrong with the fuse), changed the fluid and it started to work. Again thanks for the advice, it's the first time I have used the group but have been following / reading the discussions for years. > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[RobertWichert]

Mine was the relay. There is a NAPA relay that is cheaper. * From the FAQ: Fan and starter safety replacement* Toyota part number 90987-02004-83 is a plug-in replacement for these relays, for about half the price of the Kawi unit, and usually available from dealer stock. It is also listed as NAPA/Beck-Arnley P/N's BA2030055/2030055. I bought from NAPA because I am a Waltrip fan! Also, my Kawasaki dealer has NOTHING in stock. Not even cotter pins. NAPA has everything in stock. NO WAITING. Robert P. Wichert P.Eng LEED AP +1 916 966 9060 FAX +1 916 966 9068 ===============================================

On 7/29/2011 1:30 PM, Troy wrote: > > The fan on my 2004 isn't coming on when it should, resulting in high > temp at slow speed. Has a new therostat so don't think that is the > problem; suggestions on where to start? > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]