Wilsons Sandbox

At 4k, the voltage regulator is probably dumping voltage to ground. The voltage should rise from idle until about 14-14.5 volts, at which point it will level out or fall off as the regulator cuts in.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > I have heard this before, but funny (maybe an electrical type can explain) when I attach my Fluke to the battery on my KLR at idle the voltage is higher than when rev'd to around 4k. > > I know voltage is different than amperage so I may have just guessed part of the reason ? > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > > > Most motorcycle charging systems don t start charging until a very fast idle. At idle they are actually discharging. > > > > Fred > > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > > > > > From: DAVID CRITCHLEY > > Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 10:30 AM > > To: Rick B > > Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Air Pump Questions > > > > > > I run an air pump that way for my tyres. Same plug works for the electric vest. Always with the motor running. > > DC > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Rick B > > Date: Friday, July 22, 2011 0:04 > > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Air Pump Questions > > To: mailto:DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com > > > > > I've got an 12v air pump to pump up my air mattress and was > > > wondering if it would be okay to add a cigarette lighter plug-in > > > to the bike and use it while the motor was running to fill my > > > matt > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > >

This is an easy and inexpensive fix. You need two parts: The seal, or as Kawasaki calls it "COLLAR,25X32X3.0", part number 92143-1721. About $9. The second part is just an o-ring, "O-Ring 21.5mm" about $5. Part number 92055-1293. I bet the O-ring could be sourced locally for a dime or two L The hardest part of the job is removing the drive sprocket. Once that is off you can remove the old seal using a small screwdriver or similar (I use a cast-off dental tool). Ensure you also remove the old O-ring. Then install the new O-ring and press the new seal into place. If you don't have a seal driver a suitable sized socket can be used as a seal driver. There is one other part that has to be removed and reinstalled, this steel part is in between the seal and the O-ring. Both the Kawasaki and the Clymer manuals show these three parts with sufficient clarity to make the job easy to understand and accomplish. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Keith Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 10:26 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] output shaft seal replacement I looks like my output shaft seal has failed after 33k on my 05. Returned home after a 6 hour trip to find oil coating the swing arm and rear tire. Lost a good bit of oil but caught in time. Wondering what kind of job am I looking when I replace it. I have heard this can be done without removing the case, but that seems wishful thinking. Am I correct? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]