side stand/starter lockout bypass

[Kevin]

Happy Easter, Everyone, Looking for some wisdom regarding tires. I recently installed Shinko 705's on my '95 KLR. After trying to track down a vibration, I discovered I've mismounted the front tire. There's a little line going around the outside of the tire near where it meets the wheel. This line is touching the wheel at one point, but is about 1/4" away from the wheel everywhere else. I removed the wheel from the bike, then repeatedly deflated the tire and pried out the low area with tire spoons, all to no avail. For some reason, I seem unable to reinflate the tire in such a way that the line is equidistant from the wheel all the way around. What do I need to do differently? Thanks in advance for your knowledgeable advice, Kevin

[Michael Martin]

Kevin, Your note didn't say whether you used a tire lube. If you aren't, that might explain the problem. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ________________________________ From: Kevin Looking for some wisdom regarding tires. I recently installed Shinko 705's on my '95 KLR. After trying to track down a vibration, I discovered I've mismounted the front tire. There's a little line going around the outside of the tire near where it meets the wheel. This line is touching the wheel at one point, but is about 1/4" away from the wheel everywhere else. I removed the wheel from the bike, then repeatedly deflated the tire and pried out the low area with tire spoons, all to no avail. For some reason, I seem unable to reinflate the tire in such a way that the line is equidistant from the wheel all the way around. What do I need to do differently? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[mark ward]

I would also Mark the area that is differant, (magic marker etc.) you can mark the tread area, and tape the rim, just so you KNOW what area it is. Then see if it is allways the same spot, If so? It may be a 2nd or bad tire, take it back if so. (ALSO, make sure the Rim is clean.) Remember Lube is CHEAP, dish soap, OR, as the Navy taught us, Goverment lube # "Gov-5379-234", for O-rings, when we asked WHERE DO WE GET IT? ... "SPIT!!".

--- On Mon, 4/25/11, Michael Martin wrote: From: Michael Martin Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Mismounted tire To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, April 25, 2011, 3:05 AM Kevin, Your note didn't say whether you used a tire lube. If you aren't, that might explain the problem. Mike Martin, Louisville, KY ________________________________ From: Kevin Looking for some wisdom regarding tires. I recently installed Shinko 705's on my '95 KLR. After trying to track down a vibration, I discovered I've mismounted the front tire. There's a little line going around the outside of the tire near where it meets the wheel. This line is touching the wheel at one point, but is about 1/4" away from the wheel everywhere else. I removed the wheel from the bike, then repeatedly deflated the tire and pried out the low area with tire spoons, all to no avail. For some reason, I seem unable to reinflate the tire in such a way that the line is equidistant from the wheel all the way around. What do I need to do differently? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Fred Hink]

Be sure that your rim tape and/or tube is not between the tire and your rim. If you have inflated the tire with the tube between the tire and the rim, it will be folded over and more than likely creased that will eventually fail and cause a rapid loss of air. If you see a crease in your tube, replace it. Is your rim clean and not corroded? I d use some soapy water and lube up the bead area and your tire. You can use up to about 45-50 psi to seat the bead but I d be careful if you need more than that and your tire still hasn t seated. It is a good practice to deflate the tire once the bead has seated to relax the tube, so that when you refill the tube it should be laying flat and not stretched. Another area to watch out for is the valve stem. If you have the stem nut tight when you air up the tube, it may have part of the tube under the tire at this point. I d take out your tube and inspect it. Let us know what you find out. Fred http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com From: Kevin Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 8:41 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Mismounted tire Happy Easter, Everyone, Looking for some wisdom regarding tires. I recently installed Shinko 705's on my '95 KLR. After trying to track down a vibration, I discovered I've mismounted the front tire. There's a little line going around the outside of the tire near where it meets the wheel. This line is touching the wheel at one point, but is about 1/4" away from the wheel everywhere else. I removed the wheel from the bike, then repeatedly deflated the tire and pried out the low area with tire spoons, all to no avail. For some reason, I seem unable to reinflate the tire in such a way that the line is equidistant from the wheel all the way around. What do I need to do differently? Thanks in advance for your knowledgeable advice, Kevin [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kusstj]

Hi, sounds like the front tire bead just has not seated yet. In addition to what has been already stated (make sure your not pinching a tube. ) Having just wrestled with one recently, Here is what I would try. pull the valve core and air down. gap where bead is not seated will likely open up a bit. shoot lube in here. There is such a thing as tire lube, but talc, or other lubes (wd40) may work fine. then air it up, and usually a number of repeats. you want to make sure the tube gradually finds its way home with airing up and down a few times. Then I might try a bit higher psi to see if you can seat it. Not too high, maybe 50 psi or so. (speaking from experience) Major chiming in might occur from listers about too high of pressure being used and how unsafe that might be. Or leave it the presuure a bit low, so 20ish psi and ride on it some more. - just a few miles, the bead may seat on its own that way too. Again, the bead will seat with some lube. the root cause was probably old rubber residue on the rim surface which is causing the bead to hang up. Cleaning up the rim real good nest time will help rectify this in the future, but right now some lube ought to do the trick. If all else fails and you decide to tear the new tire off the rim, clean this rim surface real well and lube the hell out of the bead before remounting. A new tube may be in order by this time too. good luck todd in chaska mn A16

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Fred Hink" wrote: > > Be sure that your rim tape and/or tube is not between the tire and your rim. If you have inflated the tire with the tube between the tire and the rim, it will be folded over and more than likely creased that will eventually fail and cause a rapid loss of air. If you see a crease in your tube, replace it. Is your rim clean and not corroded? I d use some soapy water and lube up the bead area and your tire. You can use up to about 45-50 psi to seat the bead but I d be careful if you need more than that and your tire still hasn t seated. It is a good practice to deflate the tire once the bead has seated to relax the tube, so that when you refill the tube it should be laying flat and not stretched. Another area to watch out for is the valve stem. If you have the stem nut tight when you air up the tube, it may have part of the tube under the tire at this point. I d take out your tube and inspect it. > > Let us know what you find out. > > Fred > http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > > > > From: Kevin > Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 8:41 PM > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Mismounted tire > > > Happy Easter, Everyone, > > Looking for some wisdom regarding tires. I recently installed Shinko 705's on my '95 KLR. After trying to track down a vibration, I discovered I've mismounted the front tire. There's a little line going around the outside of the tire near where it meets the wheel. This line is touching the wheel at one point, but is about 1/4" away from the wheel everywhere else. I removed the wheel from the bike, then repeatedly deflated the tire and pried out the low area with tire spoons, all to no avail. For some reason, I seem unable to reinflate the tire in such a way that the line is equidistant from the wheel all the way around. What do I need to do differently? > > Thanks in advance for your knowledgeable advice, > > Kevin > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[fasteddiecopeman]

Try lots of tire lube (WD40 works, too!) might do it! Good luck! Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Kevin" wrote: > > Happy Easter, Everyone, > > Looking for some wisdom regarding tires. I recently installed Shinko 705's on my '95 KLR. After trying to track down a vibration, I discovered I've mismounted the front tire. There's a little line going around the outside of the tire near where it meets the wheel. This line is touching the wheel at one point, but is about 1/4" away from the wheel everywhere else. I removed the wheel from the bike, then repeatedly deflated the tire and pried out the low area with tire spoons, all to no avail. For some reason, I seem unable to reinflate the tire in such a way that the line is equidistant from the wheel all the way around. What do I need to do differently? > > Thanks in advance for your knowledgeable advice, > > Kevin >

[Kevin]

Thanks so much for all your words of wisdom. I used a little soap when I first put on the tire awhile back, but obviously not enough. Today, I sprayed WD-40 on it, then inflated / deflated a couple of times, and suddenly everything popped into place. I really appreciate how generous many of you are with your time and knowledge. When I first learned about KLR's two years ago, I thought I would like to have one. Then I joined this group, just to learn. It wasn't long before I KNEW I had to have a KLR in order to be part of this supportive and entertaining community. Y'all are awesome! Kevin

[klrdon@comcast.net]

U R right, awesome group! Don M -----Original Message----- From: Kevin Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 9:23 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Mismounted tire Thanks so much for all your words of wisdom. I used a little soap when I first put on the tire awhile back, but obviously not enough. Today, I sprayed WD-40 on it, then inflated / deflated a couple of times, and suddenly everything popped into place. I really appreciate how generous many of you are with your time and knowledge. When I first learned about KLR's two years ago, I thought I would like to have one. Then I joined this group, just to learn. It wasn't long before I KNEW I had to have a KLR in order to be part of this supportive and entertaining community. Y'all are awesome! Kevin ------------------------------------ List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map Group Apps: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! Groups Links ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3597 - Release Date: 04/25/11

[Monty Bludworth]

I thought I had posted a reply to this......but apparently I had not. I found a way to bypass the start in gear lockout, side stand lockout, and the interlock diode. I have posted the instructions on ADV Riderhttp://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=681456>and on my blog http://myjournyonabike.blogspot.com/>. I have also copied it below.....but not sure if the photos will show on the group or not. I could not find here or anywhere else how to disable the clutch and side stand safety interlock for the new model KLR 650. I figured it out with a little help from the KLR FAQ and thought I would post it here. YMMV WARNING: With this mod, you can start the bike in gear without the clutch in! Also, left hand turns will be a real bitch if you leave your side stand down. Use at your own risk Okay, so there is a safety feature on new bikes that will not allow the engine to start if it is not in neutral nor will the bike run if the side stand is down and the bike is in gear. Sounds like good features unless you are sitting in the middle of an intersection with a stalled bike and you can't find neutral (yes it has happened). The kick stand switches are easily damaged off road also. I feel like I am pretty methodical in my starting sequence so I decided to disable both features. But how to do it? Looking at the wiring diagram and with lots of internet searching it looked like the best bet would be to bypass the Interlock diode unit. This unit controls the kick stand switch, the neutral start only switch and the neutral light. By bypassing the switches and the diode I would be eliminating as much of the system as possible thereby eliminating future trouble. Note: The following procedure worked on a 2009 KLR650. I THINK it would work on the 2008 also, because those are the years that my Clymer manual covers. It MIGHT work on later models but I don't think it will work on earlier ones.....no interlock diode. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_O2XyyJTIQQs/TbYL07kMUqI/AAAAAAAAAZE/SVMzBmtR7Iw/s512/Apr242011_0106BLOG.jpg> Here is a photo of the interlock diode which is located behind the dash. You will need to do the following to bypass the interlock and the switches. Cut all six (6) wires from the interlock diode plug (I left enough slack so I could put it back in the future if needed). Tie the following wires together 4 and 3 (green/white & black/red) and 1 and 2 (blue/red & black/red) and ground them. The wires 6 and 5 (green & blue/red) should be cut and left open (insulate them well) they are for the Neutral Switch and you want it to continue to work. That's it! Although very simple, I would get a wiring diagram for the 2008/2009 bike so you can identify the wires by number and color. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_O2XyyJTIQQs/TbYJAPRRAKI/AAAAAAAAAYw/eL-yxa8GIUY/s640/Apr242011_0102.JPG> The above photo shows how I tested the work around. I strongly recommend you do this! The two red wires went to the ground on the battery. https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/sbdrWtz8JEPgo9JaPbe5KcMKKr6jsYPAlRNgtay1Dl8?feat=embedwebsite> https://picasaweb.google.com/monty.bludworth/InterlockDiodeUnit?authkey=Gv1sRgCNLFk4-p5qiMNw&feat=embedwebsite>There you have it boys and girls! I soldered all of the wires together and used heat shrink wrap to insulate. Then wrapped it all in electrical tape. I drilled a hole though the old bracket for the diode and grounded the wires to that. You can see the blue terminal that is in the above photo. __________________ Monty

On Mon, Apr 25, 2011 at 20:18, wrote: > > > Jeff, that is one eloquent reply! Thanks for the write up. > > Don M > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jeff Saline > Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 12:01 AM > To: nomad59@... > Cc: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] Side stand/starter lockout bypass > > On Sun, 24 Apr 2011 10:09:12 -0700 (PDT) mark ward > writes: > > WHAT is the Interlock diode? > > <><><><><><> > <><><><><><> > > Mark, > > I think the interlock diode is a trio of diodes designed to limit starter > and ignition operation to a couple of conditions. I think I have the > conditions properly list below but someone please correct any errors. > > For the starter, it should only energize when the clutch is pulled in if > the transmission is in gear OR when the transmission is in neutral. I > don't think it will prohibit operation of the starter if the engine is > running but I'm not about to press the starter switch on my KLR to > verify. : ) > > For the ignition, it should only work when the clutch is pulled in when > the transmission is in gear when the side stand is down, OR anytime the > side stand is up OR when the transmission is in neutral regardless of > clutch or side stand position. > > The diode trio allows the neutral switch, side stand switch and starter > circuit relay to connect electrically and not send (backfeed) electricity > into the "other" electrically attached circuits. > > Diodes are like one way electrical valves. Power may move one direction > but not the other direction. > > Many KLR owners disable the side stand switch and clutch switch so the > starter will operate in any condition and the engine will operate if the > bike is in gear with the side stand down and the clutch out. Removing > the diode trio if done properly would allow similar operation eliminating > a potential failure point. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > . > . > __________________________________________________________ > Scholarships for Moms > Grant Funding May Be Available to Those Who Qualify! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4db4f2ac326fb9e2ccst02vuc > > ------------------------------------ > > > List Sponsors - Dual Sport News: http://www.dualsportnews.com > Arrowhead Motorsports: http://www.arrowheadmotorsports.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok: http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/app/peoplemap/view/map > Group Apps: > http://groups.yahoo.com/group/DSN_KLR650/grouplets/subscriptionsYahoo! > Groups Links > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 10.0.1209 / Virus Database: 1500/3597 - Release Date: 04/25/11 > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]