doohickey tools in lane county?

[Doug Herr]

I carry a set of those motorcycle size jumper cables just in case I end up with a bad battery and at the bottom of a hill on a hot day, etc etc... Seems that to take a jump we have to remove the side panels and the seat. I guess you would jump the bike and then put those items back on while the bike idles. Not too bad until you accidentally brush the kill switch while mounting up. This brings up an idea which *might* be safe and helpful, but I want to give you all a chance to tell me that it is more dangerous than the status quo. The idea: Add a proper gauge wire tapped off of the positive side of the starter relay with the far end being something that a jumper cable can be easily clipped onto. This end piece would be protected by a rubber foreskin to help avoid the possibility of having any of the positive metal touch any other metal. When not in use it would be secured by velcro. Negatives: Added weight, more unfused positive wire with associated risks, not likely to be needed enough for the bother. -- Doug Herr A16 in Oakland, California

[kconcour1]

Instead of going through all that hassle why not connect to the starter relay cable to the battery. Inside terminal on my 2008. One screw lift the protective rubber and there you are. No need to rig extra wires or take the seat off. Works great, no need to mention why, but someone told me ...

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote: > > I carry a set of those motorcycle size jumper cables just in case I end > up with a bad battery and at the bottom of a hill on a hot day, etc > etc... > > Seems that to take a jump we have to remove the side panels and the > seat. I guess you would jump the bike and then put those items back on > while the bike idles. Not too bad until you accidentally brush the kill > switch while mounting up. This brings up an idea which *might* be safe > and helpful, but I want to give you all a chance to tell me that it is > more dangerous than the status quo. > > The idea: > > Add a proper gauge wire tapped off of the positive side of the starter > relay with the far end being something that a jumper cable can be easily > clipped onto. This end piece would be protected by a rubber foreskin to > help avoid the possibility of having any of the positive metal touch any > other metal. When not in use it would be secured by velcro. > > Negatives: Added weight, more unfused positive wire with associated > risks, not likely to be needed enough for the bother. > > -- > Doug Herr > A16 in Oakland, California >

[Doug Herr]

On Tue, 2011-03-22 at 16:57 +0000, kconcour1 wrote:

> Instead of going through all that hassle why not connect to the starter > relay cable to the battery. Inside terminal on my 2008. One screw lift > the protective rubber and there you are. No need to rig extra wires or > take the seat off.

Yup, that was the first thought, but it seemed sort of tight right there and I was worried that a jumper cable might short against some metal. I guess I should verify that the metal that I am seeing in there is connected to ground. Maybe just adding some insulating tape to such metal might be the added security that I am looking for. The main thing is that this is getting me back to thinking about the KLR and that might just lead to some more miles getting added this year. But I should also dust off my home brew equipment. Oh, and some of the guns have not been out in while. Don't I still have that second retaining wall to finish? -- Doug Herr A16 in Oakland, California

[Jim Fortner]

I use the same two prong plug connected directly to the battery via fuse as I use to connect the battery tender. Keep it simple. Jim

On Tue, Mar 22, 2011 at 11:34 AM, Doug Herr wrote: > > > I carry a set of those motorcycle size jumper cables just in case I end > up with a bad battery and at the bottom of a hill on a hot day, etc > etc... > > Seems that to take a jump we have to remove the side panels and the > seat. I guess you would jump the bike and then put those items back on > while the bike idles. Not too bad until you accidentally brush the kill > switch while mounting up. This brings up an idea which *might* be safe > and helpful, but I want to give you all a chance to tell me that it is > more dangerous than the status quo. > > The idea: > > Add a proper gauge wire tapped off of the positive side of the starter > relay with the far end being something that a jumper cable can be easily > clipped onto. This end piece would be protected by a rubber foreskin to > help avoid the possibility of having any of the positive metal touch any > other metal. When not in use it would be secured by velcro. > > Negatives: Added weight, more unfused positive wire with associated > risks, not likely to be needed enough for the bother. > > -- > Doug Herr > A16 in Oakland, California > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Doug Herr]

On Tue, 2011-03-22 at 12:33 -0500, Jim Fortner wrote:

> I use the same two prong plug connected directly to the battery via > fuse as I use to connect the battery tender. Keep it simple.

Starting amperage is not enough to pop that fuse? I think I saw a 15amp on mine. Maybe I put that in to handle just this very possibility, since it seems sort of large for just the battery tender itself. I might have also placed the 15 in there after experiments with the 12volt tire pump. -- Doug Herr A16 in Oakland, California

[Jim Fortner]

I don't recall the 10amp fuse ever popping. Jim

On Tue, Mar 22, 2011 at 12:40 PM, Doug Herr wrote: > > > On Tue, 2011-03-22 at 12:33 -0500, Jim Fortner wrote: > > I use the same two prong plug connected directly to the battery via > > fuse as I use to connect the battery tender. Keep it simple. > > Starting amperage is not enough to pop that fuse? > > I think I saw a 15amp on mine. Maybe I put that in to handle just this > very possibility, since it seems sort of large for just the battery > tender itself. I might have also placed the 15 in there after > experiments with the 12volt tire pump. > > > -- > Doug Herr > A16 in Oakland, California > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[David Bowden]

I need to buy the parts and I am looking for someone with the tools to borrow or maybe some help with the process in Lane county Oregon. Just sometime before Summer. David [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]