Wilsons Sandbox

#ygrps-yiv-150627843 p {margin:0;}Try a thinner oil.  (like a 5w-40) I'd be willing to bet you're running 20w-50 in it... Oil that thick slows the starter speed down so much that it just won't "catch".  Either that, or a squirt of ether to kick it over (but BE CAREFUL, as too much can have a catastrophic effect on your engine.) A synthetic oil with a low first number (the "cold" number) will produce the best results in a carbureted engine in cold weather From "Motor oil 101 @ bobistheoilguy": "A main advantage that the synthetic has over the mineral based oil is the ability to lubricate at startup. Both types of oil have the same specifications at 104 F, 212 F and 302 F. It is the startup viscosity characteristics that separate these oils. Synthetic oils do not thicken as much on cooling. They have better fluidity as the temperature drops. A synthetic oil that is labeled as 10W-30 is less honey like as a mineral based 10W-30 motor oil at startup. They both have a thickness of 10 at normal operating temperatures. At 75 F the synthetic is not as thick. At 32 F the difference between the two is even greater. At 0 F the mineral oil is useless yet the synthetic works fairly well. Just keep the RPM to a minimum. At temperatures below zero you will not be able to start your car with mineral oils while the synthetic oils may be used to -40 or - 50 F. Oils are so thick that the normal method of viscosity measurement is not possible. Instead we measure if the oil can even be pumped or poured. Again, we are only discussing a single category of oil, the multi-grade 10W-30 API / SAE grade. I took an except from the web about Mobil 1 oils. They compared a 5W-30 synthetic Mobil 1 oil to a mineral based 10W-30 and a 10W-40 in ice cold conditions. The engine turned over at 152 RPM with the synthetic 5W-30 Mobil 1. The 10W-30 and 10W-40 mineral oils turned over at 45 and 32 RPM respectively. Neither of those engines started." -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"natural_dam_rider_ar" [b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Wednesday, January 12, 2011 7:28:37 AM [b]Subject: [/b][DSN_KLR650] Winter Ride   Hello all. I've got a bug to do some cold winter, riding. I can ride in temps in the low 40's and stay comfortable. The 08 KLR starts ok, in the 40's, with the choke on. However, in the low 30's, the bike just won't start. Seems to turn over normally. Pushing it down the hill will start it and run fine. New battery last summer, battery tender connected, voltage ok,fresh fuel, headlight is bright. So,...what am I missing? Thanks in advance. Keith, Natural Dam, AR

#ygrps-yiv-369807392 p {margin:0;}I've always just used Transmission fluid in my forks.  ATF has a very precise viscosity that equates to 15w fork oil.  So, if you like 15W... save yourself some $$. -Jeff Khoury [b]From: [/b]"Pass Sport" [b]To: [/b]"DSN KLR650" DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Sent: [/b]Friday, January 14, 2011 1:24:00 PM [b]Subject: [/b]Re: [DSN_KLR650] Digest Number 11596   I found a T in 1 1/4" but not a coupler. The largest socket I have is for the rear axle nut--nowhere near 38mm but I should be ok with the T and some heat. All that is left is some 15 weight fork oil... Thanks, Steve A-14

> 1 1/4" PVC 4-way connector works great for getting the new > seal in also.  > > > Dooden > A15 Green Ape

and

> Posted by: "cycletip" cycletip%40yahoo.com cycletip > > Steve - use a large socket same size as the seal or the old > seal if the surface is good with a soft mallet.  If the > temps are warm it's easier.  Hair dryer works great for > a short blast.