klr overcharges battery

[wingerr]

One other possibility to reduce the charging voltage would be to simply feed back some of the output from the regulator directly to the brown sense wire. I haven't tried this because I presently don't have any issues with overcharging, but this would be what I'd try: The brown sense line would need be isolated with an inline diode to keep the load from lowering the sense voltage, (cathode towards the regulator sense input). Then use a relay, controlled by the switched ignition (brown wire should do fine). Relay Common terminal to the brown wire input at the regulator, and Relay Normally Open terminal to the white wire output from the regulator. This should reduce the voltage by having it see a higher voltage at the sense input, and cut off the charge current earlier. In practice, it might need filtering and maybe reduction of the feedback voltage because there are spikes on the white output line when it hits the charge peaks. But it should be fairly simple to try anyway. If I were doing it, I'd probably see if I can open up the connectors to tap in instead of cutting wires, so it can be easily reversed. It could be better to use up the excess charge current for something useful, as suggested earlier. Having the regulator shunt the current to ground is just wasted as heat. But, the drawback would be that unless you do something to switch your added load dynamically, it would drain the battery at the times you don't have excess current, such as idle. The regulator would adjust so it handles the full range of rpms- Maybe another idea: You could also do something more unusual like put in a circuit that detects when the voltage is above your set threshold, and use that to switch your extra lights on, so it'll only come on when you're revving high, and shut off automatically when you slow down. Then presumably the excess power isn't wasted, and won't drain the bike when idling.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Richard Bassett wrote: > > A solution that I thought about to reduce the > charging voltage would be to fool the regulator into thinking that the > battery voltage is higher than it (the regulator) thinks, by inserting > a small (1.0-1.5V) voltage source in the brown sensor wire, between the > ignition switch and the regulator. (I haven't measured the current needed). If this voltage source was powered by the bike electrics, it > would have to have floating outputs so that its negative terminal could > run at 14V or so (battery voltage) above bike ground. It may be > possible to find a DC-to-DC converter that would do the job. An easier > idea that is impractical except for the short term would be to wire in > a single torch (US: "flashlight") cell. > > Choice: Ni-CD (1.2V), NiMH (1.25V), old-style carbon-zinc (1.5V), or > alkaline (1.6V - maybe too high). However, if the cell went flat, its > resistance would mean that the overcharging would be even worse. In the > case of an NiMH, the reverse voltage would kill the cell. Monitoring > the charge in the battery would be too much trouble. >

[Eddie]

 

 

FWIW,

I've purchased four Stebel Compact Nautilus horns: Three for bikes and one for my girlfriend's car.

Four for four, they have worked as advertised and proven themselves.

I followed the instructions. It's important to orient the horn upright and mount it in a location that keeps it out of direct water spray (rain, etc..)

I have a 09' KLR and mounted the horn inside the right fairing, just to the right of the coolant return tank. A relay is plugged into the OEM horn wires and directs power straight off the battery to the compressor. Can provide pictures of the installation off list, if someone's interested.

 

eddie

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