Wilsons Sandbox

I think the weight on the spokes is to offset the valve stem wieght. I use tape weights. you can get them at autoparts stores or the motorcycle shop. My metzlers have never needed over 1/2 oz to balance. My last tire I didn't even balance and didn't notice a differance --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "markalexandrovich" wrote:

> I noticed my A15 has lead weights crimped onto a few spokes. If I > replace the tires, what is the proper way to make sure they are > balanced? > > Thanks

www.newcovenant.com/features/motors/balance.html For static balancing, I use the swingarm. Just leave off the brake caliper and chain drive. Allan A14

----- Original Message ----- From: "markalexandrovich" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2003 8:02 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Wheel Balancing > I noticed my A15 has lead weights crimped onto a few spokes. If I > replace the tires, what is the proper way to make sure they are > balanced? > > Thanks > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "markalexandrovich" wrote:

> I noticed my A15 has lead weights crimped onto a few spokes. If I > replace the tires, what is the proper way to make sure they are > balanced? > > Thanks

With the wheel off the bike and the new tire mounted, insert the axle and use a couple automotive jack stands to support the wheel off the ground. Give the tire a few spins. If it always stops in the same location it's out of balance. Add weight to the oppsite side. Do this until it stops at random locations. Dunlop marks their tires with a yellow dot at the factory to indicate the lightest part of the tire. Generally, if you mount the tire wth the yellow dot directly opposite the valve stem you can get the tire pretty close to balanced. For some this is good enough and for others just a little additional weight in the appropriate location is required. I'm not sure what other tire manufacters use the mark their tires; assuming they even do. The first time I went through this exercise I had a difficult time finding wheel weights. The best solution I've found so far is pencil sinkers sold just abaout anywhere fishing supplies are sold. The sinker is shaped like the graphite in a regular ol' #2 pencil. Long, pliable sticks of lead. They come in weights of 1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4 etc. oz. If balancing is required simply wrap the appropriately weighted pencil line sinker several times around the base of the spoke(s). Cinch it up with pliers and it sticks like glue. The best part is they're sold in packages of six (depends on weight) for about a $1.99. Matt

Interesting note on the liquid stuff. I put some wheel balance/stop leak stuff < forget all the names it's called > about 2 years agon when changing tubes on my '02 KLR. I had a flat last month and decided to change the tube while at it. Up on cutting the old tube to may straps I found that the mix had dried up inside the tube. I finally < just this year > broke down and bought one of the balance set up's with the little shaft, cones and bearings to fit about any bike wheel. I told the guy what I wanted to balance and he sent what was called the Universal Unit. It covers my R1150GSA and my KLR with no problems. I then built a wheel stand out of 1.5 " PCV. Really works well. Wonder why I didnt go to this set up when I first saw the balance unit for sale. Around a 100 bucks or so. There are all kinds you can build cheaper from elaborate setups to just a knife edge plane. But this is really compact and simple to use. Heck, I got so excited I pulled all my wheels off the bikes just to play. .. '43 Andy in Jennings, La. '00 KLR650 '02 R1150GSa < for sale '03 Chevy truck

>I finally < just this year > broke down..

Hey Andrus that's interesting, do you have any piccies of your setup? Bob. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Just to clear up any confusion, I'm not referring to any kind of stop leak. I'm referring to a true balancing fluid that will not stop leaks. I've been using a 50/50 (antifreeze/water) mix for many years, in medium trucks. I'm not a big fan of any kind of stop leak, unless it's in an emergency situation. Hope this helps. On 8/10/06, Andrus Chesley wrote

> Interesting note on the liquid stuff. I put some wheel balance/stop > leak stuff < forget all the names it's called > about 2 years agon > when changing tubes on my '02 KLR. I had a flat last month and decided > to change the tube while at it. Up on cutting the old tube to may > straps I found that the mix had dried up inside the tube.

I don't know how similar it is to the balance/stop leak stuff but I use "Stan's No Tubes" in my mountain bike tires to run, surprisingly enough, without tubes. The instructions say to refresh the latex gunk inside every 2-7 months because it dries up over time. I ran it two years between refreshing (because I didn't read the directions well enough) and noticed the stuff had started to dry just a bit, and only after I was forced to peer inside after a wayward rock gashed my the sidewall. Mike A18 KLR650 tires page: [www.standoutnet.com/extras/mike/motorcy ... r650/tires] -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Andrus Chesley Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 6:45 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Wheel Balancing Interesting note on the liquid stuff. I put some wheel balance/stop leak stuff < forget all the names it's called > about 2 years agon when changing tubes on my '02 KLR. I had a flat last month and decided to change the tube while at it. Up on cutting the old tube to may straps I found that the mix had dried up inside the tube. I finally < just this year > broke down and bought one of the balance set up's with the little shaft, cones and bearings to fit about any bike wheel. I told the guy what I wanted to balance and he sent what was called the Universal Unit. It covers my R1150GSA and my KLR with no problems. I then built a wheel stand out of 1.5 " PCV. Really works well. Wonder why I didnt go to this set up when I first saw the balance unit for sale. Around a 100 bucks or so. There are all kinds you can build cheaper from elaborate setups to just a knife edge plane. But this is really compact and simple to use. Heck, I got so excited I pulled all my wheels off the bikes just to play. .. '43 Andy in Jennings, La. '00 KLR650 '02 R1150GSa < for sale '03 Chevy truck -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.8/415 - Release Date: 8/9/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.8/415 - Release Date: 8/9/2006 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote:

> > Those bolts that you found loose are the subframe bolts. > > > > Sometimes these bolts sheer off. They are low grade steel and if they work > loose the flexing can fatigue the bolts leading to failure. A common > upgrade for the KLR is to replace the two lower subframe bolts with > high-grade bolts and to replace the upper two subframe bolts with a single, > larger bolt by drilling through the upper bolt location near the back of > the tank. An easier alternative is to the drilling operation is to replace > the two upper bolts with high grade steel bolts of the original size. I'd > recommend a subframe upgrade for anyone over 100 pounds but especially if > the bolts have ever worked loose, such as in your case. > > >

This is good advice, of course, and I upgraded my subframe bolts years ago. It seems a sensible precaution on a bike that gets loaded pretty heavily at times. Over the years I have read several accounts of failure of the stock bolts. I have never been able to tell from any of these reports whether the stock bolts have ever failed while still tight.