Wilsons Sandbox

#ygrps-yiv-1025248515 {font-family:Geneva, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:10pt;font-family:arial, sans-serif;background-color:#ffffff;color:black;}#ygrps-yiv-1025248515 p{margin:0px;} I read the article in the link provided and by it's end I felt that surely my hair would fall out, world peace would end and a baby penguin somewhere would get hives if I converted my bike to H.I.D. bulbs. The man makes good arguments. (I just don't like the idea of not being seen in heavy traffic during the daytime. That's why I have brighter than stock headlights and a pair of LED Hyperlites mounted under my luggage rack.)   Here are my personal observations based upon a 2009 KLR650 originally fitted with H7 halogen bulbs. The filament runs lengthwise each the bulb and is slightly curved (heat + gravity = sag?). The metal coil is about 2X bigger/longer than the arc capsule. The distance from the filament to the base of the halogen is roughly 1/4 inch less than the distance of the arc capsule of the H.I.D. unit I bought. I just completed making a simple but effective spacer to place inside the bulb housing so that the low beam bulb now protrudes into the headlamp about 1/4 in. less than the high beam - putting the light source in approximately the same area as the OEM bulb. Inside a closed, darkened garage with the bike level on the center stand, the beam pattern is distinctly rectangular in shape. It's a nice, wide box of light. There is now an observable difference between the low & high beams,too. Before, all I could see was the sharp, brilliant box of light simply got brighter. Now, the low beam is more subdued. I won't know how it works in the real world until nightfall. But, the mod was simple & free.  The heat difference makes sense. Energy in = light & heat out. 35W{says so on the transformer} of insanely bright H.I.D. bulb has got to make less heat than the inefficient 55W quartz-halogen.   If all else fails, I'll put the halogen bulb back in the low beam and save the H.I.D. for high beam, back road use. Come to think of it, they'd make GREAT high beams in my GL1800 if it wasn't such a royal pain-in-the-youknowwhat to get at the bulbs. =)   -eddie  

-----Original Message----- From: fredb6323 Sent: Jul 16, 2010 6:46 AM To: transalp1@... Subject: Re: H.I.D. results Interesting thread. I'd thought about getting an H.I.D. system for my '05 KLR, but haven't chased up the idea. [b]WARNING !!! Before you go any further, readers, perhaps you should take a look at this: Thinking of converting to HID? [/b] Back to Eddie's thread ... There should be LESS heat with the H.I.D. unit than with the standard setup. Energy OUT = Energy IN ALWAYS. Fundamental law of the universe. If you figure out how to break it, you'd be able to invent perpetual motion machines. Standard unit IN = 55/60W (depends on running voltage. If rating is at 12.0V and at bulb it's 14.0V, then it will consume considerably more). H.I.D. unit = 35W in, you say. Some of the energy comes out as light, instead of staying behind and heating up the headlight reflector/glass enclosure. The Wikipedia entry on Incandescent light bulb states that a quartz-halogen bulb is about 3.5% efficient, so 96.5% of your 60W stays behind & heats up your headlight unit. Since the HID unit is more efficient, more of your 35W will go out as light (haven't found a number for this), leaving even less than 96.5% of your 35W behind as heat. - Richard, down in Aus - --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "transalp 1" wrote: ... > Now for the night time test ride report. > ... > I'm contemplating making a thin shim out of aluminum (to handle the heat) that will space the bulbs back a small amount - moving the hot spot closer to where the OEM bulbs are. There, I might have the beams in place like I intended and be a lot more kind to oncoming drivers at night. > > eddie

#ygrps-yiv-2051693442 v\00003a* {} #ygrps-yiv-2051693442 o\00003a* {} #ygrps-yiv-2051693442 w\00003a* {} #ygrps-yiv-2051693442 .ygrps-yiv-2051693442shape {} And they are 50 state legal! =)   eddie    

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] johnbiccum@... [b]To: [/b]transalp1@... [b]Sent:[/b] 7/16/2010 3:10:53 PM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: H.I.D. results Try a headlight modulator if you really want to be noticed.   Even with the KLR s pitiful headlight people see you.

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]transalp1@... [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, July 16, 2010 10:28 [b]To:[/b] fredb6323@...; DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: H.I.D. results

 

 

I read the article in the link provided and by it's end I felt that surely my hair would fall out, world peace would end and a baby penguin somewhere would get hives if I converted my bike to H.I.D. bulbs. The man makes good arguments. (I just don't like the idea of not being seen in heavy traffic during the daytime. That's why I have brighter than stock headlights and a pair of LED Hyperlites mounted under my luggage rack.)   Here are my personal observations based upon a 2009 KLR650 originally fitted with H7 halogen bulbs. The filament runs lengthwise each the bulb and is slightly curved (heat + gravity = sag?). The metal coil is about 2X bigger/longer than the arc capsule. The distance from the filament to the base of the halogen is roughly 1/4 inch less than the distance of the arc capsule of the H.I.D. unit I bought. I just completed making a simple but effective spacer to place inside the bulb housing so that the low beam bulb now protrudes into the headlamp about 1/4 in. less than the high beam - putting the light source in approximately the same area as the OEM bulb. Inside a closed, darkened garage with the bike level on the center stand, the beam pattern is distinctly rectangular in shape. It's a nice, wide box of light. There is now an observable difference between the low & high beams,too. Before, all I could see was the sharp, brilliant box of light simply got brighter. Now, the low beam is more subdued. I won't know how it works in the real world until nightfall. But, the mod was simple & free.  The heat difference makes sense. Energy in = light & heat out. 35W{says so on the transformer} of insanely bright H.I.D. bulb has got to make less heat than the inefficient 55W quartz-halogen.   If all else fails, I'll put the halogen bulb back in the low beam and save the H.I.D. for high beam, back road use. Come to think of it, they'd make GREAT high beams in my GL1800 if it wasn't such a royal pain-in-the-youknowwhat to get at the bulbs. =)   -eddie   -----Original Message----- From: fredb6323 Sent: Jul 16, 2010 6:46 AM To: transalp1@... Subject: Re: H.I.D. results Interesting thread. I'd thought about getting an H.I.D. system for my '05 KLR, but haven't chased up the idea. [b]WARNING !!! Before you go any further, readers, perhaps you should take a look at this: Thinking of converting to HID? [/b] Back to Eddie's thread ... There should be LESS heat with the H.I.D. unit than with the standard setup. Energy OUT = Energy IN ALWAYS. Fundamental law of the universe. If you figure out how to break it, you'd be able to invent perpetual motion machines. Standard unit IN = 55/60W (depends on running voltage. If rating is at 12.0V and at bulb it's 14.0V, then it will consume considerably more). H.I.D. unit = 35W in, you say. Some of the energy comes out as light, instead of staying behind and heating up the headlight reflector/glass enclosure. The Wikipedia entry on Incandescent light bulb states that a quartz-halogen bulb is about 3.5% efficient, so 96.5% of your 60W stays behind & heats up your headlight unit. Since the HID unit is more efficient, more of your 35W will go out as light (haven't found a number for this), leaving even less than 96.5% of your 35W behind as heat. - Richard, down in Aus - --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "transalp 1" wrote: ... > Now for the night time test ride report. > ... > I'm contemplating making a thin shim out of aluminum (to handle the heat) that will space the bulbs back a small amount - moving the hot spot closer to where the OEM bulbs are. There, I might have the beams in place like I intended and be a lot more kind to oncoming drivers at night. > > eddie

I've got a Diamond Star modulator, and YES they are 50 state legal....I don'y know if they will modulate HID's though.   Mike   To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: transalp1@... Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2010 15:15:17 -0400 Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] modulator recommendation.   And they are 50 state legal! =)   eddie    

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] johnbiccum@... [b]To: [/b]transalp1@... [b]Sent:[/b] 7/16/2010 3:10:53 PM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [DSN_KLR650] Re: H.I.D. results Try a headlight modulator if you really want to be noticed.   Even with the KLR s pitiful headlight people see you.  

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com [mailto:DSN_ KLR650@yahoogrou ps.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]transalp1@mindsprin g.com [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, July 16, 2010 10:28 [b]To:[/b] fredb6323@yahoo. com.au; DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: H.I.D. results

 

 

I read the article in the link provided and by it's end I felt that surely my hair would fall out, world peace would end and a baby penguin somewhere would get hives if I converted my bike to H.I.D. bulbs. The man makes good arguments. (I just don't like the idea of not being seen in heavy traffic during the daytime. That's why I have brighter than stock headlights and a pair of LED Hyperlites mounted under my luggage rack.)   Here are my personal observations based upon a 2009 KLR650 originally fitted with H7 halogen bulbs. The filament runs lengthwise each the bulb and is slightly curved (heat + gravity = sag?). The metal coil is about 2X bigger/longer than the arc capsule. The distance from the filament to the base of the halogen is roughly 1/4 inch less than the distance of the arc capsule of the H.I.D. unit I bought. I just completed making a simple but effective spacer to place inside the bulb housing so that the low beam bulb now protrudes into the headlamp about 1/4 in. less than the high beam - putting the light source in approximately the same area as the OEM bulb. Inside a closed, darkened garage with the bike level on the center stand, the beam pattern is distinctly rectangular in shape. It's a nice, wide box of light. There is now an observable difference between the low & high beams,too. Before, all I could see was the sharp, brilliant box of light simply got brighter. Now, the low beam is more subdued. I won't know how it works in the real world until nightfall. But, the mod was simple & free.  The heat difference makes sense. Energy in = light & heat out. 35W{says so on the transformer} of insanely bright H.I.D. bulb has got to make less heat than the inefficient 55W quartz-halogen.   If all else fails, I'll put the halogen bulb back in the low beam and save the H.I.D. for high beam, back road use. Come to think of it, they'd make GREAT high beams in my GL1800 if it wasn't such a royal pain-in-the- youknowwhat to get at the bulbs. =)   -eddie   -----Original Message----- From: fredb6323 Sent: Jul 16, 2010 6:46 AM To: transalp1@mindsprin g.com Subject: Re: H.I.D. results Interesting thread. I'd thought about getting an H.I.D. system for my '05 KLR, but haven't chased up the idea. [b]WARNING !!! Before you go any further, readers, perhaps you should take a look at this: Thinking of converting to HID? [/b] Back to Eddie's thread ... There should be LESS heat with the H.I.D. unit than with the standard setup. Energy OUT = Energy IN ALWAYS. Fundamental law of the universe. If you figure out how to break it, you'd be able to invent perpetual motion machines. Standard unit IN = 55/60W (depends on running voltage. If rating is at 12.0V and at bulb it's 14.0V, then it will consume considerably more). H.I.D. unit = 35W in, you say. Some of the energy comes out as light, instead of staying behind and heating up the headlight reflector/glass enclosure. The Wikipedia entry on Incandescent light bulb states that a quartz-halogen bulb is about 3.5% efficient, so 96.5% of your 60W stays behind & heats up your headlight unit. Since the HID unit is more efficient, more of your 35W will go out as light (haven't found a number for this), leaving even less than 96.5% of your 35W behind as heat. - Richard, down in Aus - --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "transalp 1" wrote: ... > Now for the night time test ride report. > ... > I'm contemplating making a thin shim out of aluminum (to handle the heat) that will space the bulbs back a small amount - moving the hot spot closer to where the OEM bulbs are. There, I might have the beams in place like I intended and be a lot more kind to oncoming drivers at night. > > eddie

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