Wilsons Sandbox

I am a fan of SeaFoam as a fuel additive to help clear varnished jets. I can't think of a reason ever to add it to my oil. I'd say you are due for an oil change.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote: > > I finally got a chance to change oil,filter, lube cables,clean air filter, looong overdue, I added some Seafoam, maybe one ounce, to the oil, just wanting to clean everything out .How long do you think it should stay in there ? >

ZERO reason to add it to the crankcase. I've opened up engines with 60K miles, and aside from the combustion side of the cylinder head, everything always looks super-clean and sludge-free. Mark At 2:01 AM +0000 4/16/10, Jud wrote:

>I am a fan of SeaFoam as a fuel additive to help clear varnished >jets. I can't think of a reason ever to add it to my oil. I'd say >you are due for an oil change. > >--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote: >> >> I finally got a chance to change oil,filter, lube cables,clean air >>filter, looong overdue, I added some Seafoam, maybe one ounce, to >>the oil, just wanting to clean everything out .How long do you >>think it should stay in there ?

Luc, I'd guess less than 20 miles if that. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT <><><><> <><><><> On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:31:32 -0700 (PDT) Luc Legrain writes:

> I finally got a chance to change oil,filter, lube cables,clean air > filter, looong overdue, I added some Seafoam, maybe one ounce, to > the oil, just wanting to clean everything out .How long do you think > it should stay in there ?

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Luc, I'm having second thoughts. I think my reply was a knee jerk reaction. I don't think the SeaFoam in that concentration will hurt anything in your engine. I'm not sure that's enough to do any good either. If you used AutoRX as described by Blake Sobiloff a few years ago you'd be using about 7 oz if I recall correctly. I doubt there is much difference between SeaFoam and AutoRX. So maybe ride a bit and get a few heat/cool cycles and give the SeaFoam a chance to dissolve what it will. Then do an oil and filter change. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT <><><><> <><><><> On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:09:48 -0600 Jeff Saline writes:

> Luc, > > I'd guess less than 20 miles if that. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > <><><><> > <><><><> > On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:31:32 -0700 (PDT) Luc Legrain > writes: > > I finally got a chance to change oil,filter, lube cables,clean air > > > filter, looong overdue, I added some Seafoam, maybe one ounce, to > > > the oil, just wanting to clean everything out .How long do you > think > > it should stay in there ? > > > .

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--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:

> > Luc, > > I'm having second thoughts. I think my reply was a knee jerk reaction. > > I don't think the SeaFoam in that concentration will hurt anything in > your engine. > > I'm not sure that's enough to do any good either. > > If you used AutoRX as described by Blake Sobiloff a few years ago you'd > be using about 7 oz if I recall correctly. I doubt there is much > difference between SeaFoam and AutoRX. > > So maybe ride a bit and get a few heat/cool cycles and give the SeaFoam a > chance to dissolve what it will. Then do an oil and filter change. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > <><><><> > <><><><> > On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:09:48 -0600 Jeff Saline > writes: > > Luc, > > > > I'd guess less than 20 miles if that. > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > <><><><> > > <><><><>

~~~Straight from Seafoam's website To control moisture buildup in oil, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. Sea foam will prevent phase separation of moisture that accumulates in oil. Moisture will evaporate under the heat of the crank case. Change oil and filter when dirty Elsewhere in their faq, Seafoam goes on to say- To clean oil rings and lifters, add 1 oz. Sea Foam to each quart of oil. Sea Foam will slowly re-liquefy the old oil varnish residue that builds up on lifters and rings and prevents them from functioning normally. This process can be done as part of a pre service cleaning by adding the Sea Foam to the oil at least 30 miles before the next oil change interval. OR it can be done as a preventative maintenance process without changing the oil. You can leave Sea Foam in the oil indefinitely as long as the oil is clean. The addition of a high-detergent oil like Sea Foam may cause the oil to become dirty faster than normal as buildup oil residue and contamination are cleaned. Check the oil at regular intervals and when it gets dirty, change it. I like and use Seafoam, and add an ounce to each gallon of fuel about 3 X's a year, & used through the fuel it helps to prevent build up of gas varnish deposits in the carb and motor valve train. There is also a nice faq on how to add directly to the carb throat for more aggressive treatment on motors that have not been treated with regular applications thru the fuel...motors that may suffer from excessive carbon and varnish deposits http://www.seafoamsales.com/how-to-use-sea-foam-motor-treatment.html Jake Reddick Fla. "I always heard there were three types of suns in Kansas; sunflowers, sunshine, and sons of bitches" The Outlaw Josey Wales http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/

> > On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 18:31:32 -0700 (PDT) Luc Legrain > > writes: > > > I finally got a chance to change oil,filter, lube cables,clean air > > > > > filter, looong overdue, I added some Seafoam, maybe one ounce, to > > > > > the oil, just wanting to clean everything out .How long do you > > think > > > it should stay in there ? > > > > > > . > ____________________________________________________________ > Penny Stock Jumping 2000% > Sign up to the #1 voted penny stock newsletter for free today! > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc7ce60220f74b026m07vuc >

1 oz to almost 3 qt should be fine, I have never added to the oil, just the gas, but I am sure it would'nt hurt it. What you attempting to clean up anyway ? Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Luc Legrain wrote: > > I finally got a chance to change oil,filter, lube cables,clean air filter, looong overdue, I added some Seafoam, maybe one ounce, to the oil, just wanting to clean everything out .How long do you think it should stay in there ? >

Listers, This is a repost from a note I wrote to the list in November of 2005. Thought since we're talking chains it might be of interest. I've got a different way of adjusting the chain on my bike. So far it's worked for about 13,500 smiles. I don't ever remember needing to adjust the chain unless I've changed sprocket sizes. On the road I'm using a 16 tooth front and a 46 tooth rear. In the dirt I usually change to a 14 tooth front. There are three points that when aligned make the tightest loop for the chain. The countershaft sprocket where the front sprocket mounts, the swing arm pivot bolt and the rear axle. If all three are aligned, the chain is at it's tightest. Once you have your chain adjusted as you want, it's pretty easy to get a reference for chain slack when the bike is unloaded and on the side or centerstand. If you get a buddy to lean over the rear rack and grab the swing arm on each side, they can pull up and compress the rear suspension until the three points are aligned. Then, while they hold it there, you can check to see how much slack you have in the tight position. Adjust the chain and then check it that way again to see that you do have a little slack. When the suspension is unloaded the chain will appear very loose to most folks. For me and my bike I like to quickly check chain tension by having the bike on the centerstand. I push up on the lower stretch of chain at the rubbing block on the swing arm. This is about 16" in front of the rear of the swing arm and has a phillips head screw holding the block to the swingarm. If the chain just touches the rubber and the upper stretch of chain just leaves the top of the swing arm the chain tension is ok. That's what works for me. I had a good phone call with Jake about 18 months ago. We discussed chains and sprockets during our conversation. He suggested a quick way to check my chain tension while on the road if riding with a friend. Under a gentle acceleration have your friend ride next to you and watch your chain. If it's making a gentle wave, it's adjusted about right. If it's vibrating, it's too tight. If it's making big looping waves, it's too loose. I've done this check a few times with my friend Steve from Texas. We both weigh about the same so what we did once is take a look at each others chains. Then we swapped bikes and took a look at our own chains. That way we knew what we were both talking about when we described the other's chain tension. Now, if we're on a ride together all either of us needs to do is pull up next to the other and point to our eyes and then the chain. Thirty seconds later both chains have been checked. We don't even tell each other the results unless it's too loose or tight. I suppose this would be a good place to put a disclaimer that you do that at your own risk and might want to make sure the road is straight yada yada yada legal stuff yada yada yada. : ) Last thing I'd suggest you consider doing once you've got your chain tension adjusted is to make sure your rear sprocket is aligned properly. I don't trust the adjuster marks on the swing arm as they can be moved. When everything is as you like it and the adjuster nuts are tight, maybe make a center punch mark on the adjuster nut flats. I do two single punches on one side of the nut and two double punches on the other side of the nut. Then, when I change sprockets or if I ever need to adjust the chain I have easy to use reference marks for making the adjustments. When changing front sprockets I turn the nuts loose about 8 complete revolutions and then lightly snug the locknuts to the adjusting nuts. That keeps the nuts from turning while I'm playing around. Then I can tighten each side the same amount when tightening the chain and I know the rear wheel and sprocket are in alignment. The last two turns or so when tightening the chain I do about 1/2 turn at a time alternating between sides. This allows me to easily check tension and stop before I over tighten the chain. I like the axle nut snug enough when tightening the chain so the adjuster are used to pull the rear wheel and hold it in position. I find if the axle nut is loose the adjustment is much more time consuming. Once the chain is adjusted I tighten the axle nut. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ $350,000 Life Insurance! Coverage as low as $13.04/mon! Free, no obligation quotes to help you save. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bc9b5632db8650937m07vuc