black hill nklr

[dougtyrone@aol.com]

I purchased a new 2009 KLR that soon will need it's 600 miles service, the dealer wants $400 can't be that complicated. Any info on the valve adjustments and other required services at 600 miles.   Doug

[sh8knj8kster]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, dougtyrone@... wrote:

> > I purchased a new 2009 KLR that soon will need it's 600 miles service, the > dealer wants $400 can't be that complicated. Any info on the valve > adjustments and other required services at 600 miles. > > Doug >

~~~Doug, Doing this currently (right in the middle of it) on my 08' KLR with approx 10 K miles. This is the first time I checked this motor's valve clearances. Out of the four, two were at the lowest acceptable clearance. the other two were in the middle. Clearances should be 004"-008" for intake and .006"-.0010" (6-10) for the exhausts the factory 08' manual says to check valve clearance every 15 K miles but the first check from what I've experienced should be done earlier. I also have a Clymer manual for the eariler KLR's and their valve check interval is every 6 K miles. IMO, at 600 miles checking valve clearances, that's a bit early but there's some here that would do it. it's not a bad job (not hard to do) And empirically, when checking valve clearance, if the clearance is within the acceptable range yet tighter than the fullest amount, install the shim that will get you to the widest clearance while you're in there as these valve clearances are wanton to tightening up. when i'm done with this shim swap, all four valves will be at the widest clearance, then I'll check next time around in 10-15 K miles I can't say I did anything special at 600 miles to my KLR. I keep fresh chain lube on the chain every 200 miles or every tank of fuel. you'll find a variety of opinions here on ol change intervals but most change engine oil every 1500-2000 miles, including a new filter. the 08' and on factory manual differs here and suggests a longer oil change interval but my money is with those that have been riding these bikes for years and they go with a more frequent oil change If you ride through a lot of water you'll want to service the swing arm, rocker arm and tie rod (rear suspension) bearings sooner rather than later. Many find their bike left the factory with little grease in these areas. Can be an intimidating service if you've never done it before yet it's pretty straight forward. I just did mine this past Jan with an experienced KLRista. We cleaned the bearings with diesel and toothbrushes. Lots of scrubbing=:-) You need to clean the seals very well also. I re-lubed with Marine grade grease (Lucas Red and Tacky) This service gave me the chance to soak the endless drive chain in a diesel bath (scrubbed with a toothbrush). I had been using Maxima Chain Wax for all the chain lubing. the chain was in very good condition but was a beotch to thoroughly clean. I'm using a different chain lube now=:-) Pay attention to the air filter. I have serviced the OEM air filter several times but the boys here have convinced mne to go with a new air filter which I'm also currently changing at this 10 K service interval along with the valve clearance check. the OEM air filter is foam and can be cleaned and re-oiled, but has a shelf life and will break down eventually. Others will surely chime in with their thoughts=:-) Jake Reddick Fla. "The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has it's limits" http://www.shakinjake.blogspot.com/

[Jud]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, dougtyrone@... wrote:

> > I purchased a new 2009 KLR that soon will need it's 600 miles service, the > dealer wants $400 can't be that complicated. Any info on the valve > adjustments and other required services at 600 miles. > > Doug >

$400 is not unreasonable... if your dealer's shop rate is $250/hr.

[skypilot110]

Doug, Jake makes some good points but I would add to them. It doesnt matter how much it costs if you are not up to the job. More over is the issue of warentee. If the 600 isnt done right Kawasaki might have something to say if something goes wrong. After 600 miles the bike has not only had time to settle in but has been run enough to see if anything was missed on build. Valve adjustment needs to be checked but so does everything else to be sure something isnt about to go wrong. Now with that said know that if you can fix a lawn mower or bicycle then you can probably do anything needing to be done on the KLR. As long as you are willing to take the time and go over the list of inspection items and adjustments then you can do the 600. More over you will come out of it knowing your bike much better. That bit of knowledge feels good but is also important when something goes wrong out in the field. Decide if you are comfortable doing this. If you arecomfortable enough then buy a good manual, plan out when and where and have at it Chris

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "sh8knj8kster" wrote: >

[Bogdan Swider]

Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Valve Adjustments

[quote] ~~~Doug,  Doing this currently (right in the middle of it) on my 08' KLR with approx 10 K miles.  This is the first time I checked this motor's valve clearances.  Out of the four, two were at the lowest acceptable clearance.  the other two were in the middle.  Clearances should be 004"-008" for intake and .006"-.0010" (6-10) for the exhausts

The valves do settle in as the engine gains miles. The last time I changed shims was at 53,804K miles. I checked clearances at 70K. There was zero change at the exhausts – still 009” both sides. Both intakes tightened, but only 001”; they measured 007”. ( The exhaust housed 230 shims and the intakes 245 and 255 – so you can see there was change earlier.) I’ll probably not bother  checking valve clearances again on this bike. Bogdan [/quote]

[Bogdan Swider]

Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Valve Adjustments

On 3/26/10 8:23 AM, "skypilot110" chris.eckert@...> wrote:

        Doug, Jake makes some good points but I would add to them. It doesnt matter how much it costs if you are not up to the job. More over is the issue of warentee. If the 600 isnt done right Kawasaki might have something to say if something goes wrong. And things sure can go wrong. I would advise first doing it with the help of a mentor – if possible. What always comes to mind when this topic comes up is the experience of a Catholic priest I’m acquainted with. The cam caps are held in position by little cylindrical tubes ( forgot the exact nomenclature ). If these tubes are askew when you tighten the caps you mess up the caps and end up needing a new head. That’s what happened to the good pastor.  In case you think this was a freak occurrence I watched a guy almost do this during a tech session. Fortunately he stopped and asked advice. One more turn of the wrench and it would have been all over. This guy was no rank amateur; he worked as an airline mechanic. Bogdan

[Thor Lancelot Simon]

On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 06:09:39AM -0000, sh8knj8kster wrote:

> > > This service gave me the chance to soak the endless drive chain in a > diesel bath (scrubbed with a toothbrush).

I've done that. I won't ever do it again. I strongly recommend against soaking the chain in any kind of solvent bath. The KLR chain is an O-ring chain, which means there are gaskets holding "permanent" lube in around all the interior sliding surfaces. If that lube comes out, it's not going back in. On an O-ring chain, the chain lube you add is just for the chain-to-sprocket interface and pin-to-side-plate interface. Soaking the chain in a light hydrocarbon solvent like diesel or kero is a great way to wash all the permanent lube out. Thor

[roncriswell@sbcglobal.net]

Errrrr...........what lube is the collective in love with these days?WD-40 here but beginning to question that. Criswell Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2010, at 12:37 PM, Thor Lancelot Simon wrote:

  On Fri, Mar 26, 2010 at 06:09:39AM -0000, sh8knj8kster wrote: > > > This service gave me the chance to soak the endless drive chain in a > diesel bath (scrubbed with a toothbrush). I've done that. I won't ever do it again. I strongly recommend against soaking the chain in any kind of solvent bath. The KLR chain is an O-ring chain, which means there are gaskets holding "permanent" lube in around all the interior sliding surfaces. If that lube comes out, it's not going back in. On an O-ring chain, the chain lube you add is just for the chain-to-sprocket interface and pin-to-side- plate interface. Soaking the chain in a light hydrocarbon solvent like diesel or kero is a great way to wash all the permanent lube out. Thor

[roncriswell@sbcglobal.net]

Damn, I can be an airline mechanic. And they pay by the hour, I should get filthy rich as I am ........slow.......but careful. I had a friend with a degree in engineering that tried putting an motorcycle carberater slide in upside down. Criswell Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 26, 2010, at 11:01 AM, Bogdan Swider wrote:

  On 3/26/10 8:23 AM, "skypilot110" chris.eckert@ thehartford. com> wrote:

        Doug, Jake makes some good points but I would add to them. It doesnt matter how much it costs if you are not up to the job. More over is the issue of warentee. If the 600 isnt done right Kawasaki might have something to say if something goes wrong. And things sure can go wrong. I would advise first doing it with the help of a mentor if possible. What always comes to mind when this topic comes up is the experience of a Catholic priest I m acquainted with. The cam caps are held in position by little cylindrical tubes ( forgot the exact nomenclature ). If these tubes are askew when you tighten the caps you mess up the caps and end up needing a new head. That s what happened to the good pastor.  In case you think this was a freak occurrence I watched a guy almost do this during a tech session. Fortunately he stopped and asked advice. One more turn of the wrench and it would have been all over. This guy was no rank amateur; he worked as an airline mechanic. Bogdan

[Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solut]

I happen to be a licensed A&P, Airframe and Powerplant, mechanic and I have seen licensed A&Ps do things that scare the cr@p out of me on aircraft they were signed off to work on. Doesnt surprise me any more.   I got out of the Aviation business years ago and never looked back. You are right though. Doesnt matter if it is a high end Corporate jet, a lumbering solid steel military cargo plane or a lumped up old KLR. take it slow and read the book are the important lessons [b]From:[/b] roncriswell@... [mailto:roncriswell@...] [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, March 26, 2010 1:55 PM [b]To:[/b] Bogdan Swider [b]Cc:[/b] Eckert, Christopher (Infrastructure Solutions Dept.); DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com> [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Valve Adjustments Damn, I can be an airline mechanic. And they pay by the hour, I should get filthy rich as I am ........slow.......but careful. I had a friend with a degree in engineering that tried putting an motorcycle carberater slide in upside down. Criswell Sent from my iPhone On Mar 26, 2010, at 11:01 AM, Bogdan Swider wrote:

  On 3/26/10 8:23 AM, "skypilot110" chris.eckert@ thehartford. com> wrote: [quote]         Doug, Jake makes some good points but I would add to them. It doesnt matter how much it costs if you are not up to the job. More over is the issue of warentee. If the 600 isnt done right Kawasaki might have something to say if something goes wrong. And things sure can go wrong. I would advise first doing it with the help of a mentor – if possible. What always comes to mind when this topic comes up is the experience of a Catholic priest I’m acquainted with. The cam caps are held in position by little cylindrical tubes ( forgot the exact nomenclature ). If these tubes are askew when you tighten the caps you mess up the caps and end up needing a new head. That’s what happened to the good pastor.  In case you think this was a freak occurrence I watched a guy almost do this during a tech session. Fortunately he stopped and asked advice. One more turn of the wrench and it would have been all over. This guy was no rank amateur; he worked as an airline mechanic. Bogdan

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