update

[transalp 1]

  For the curious, I used a Ridgid brand (Home Depot) bi-metal hole saw in the 2inch/51mm size. I cooled the teeth with WD40 and they *did* get quite hot almost instantly even with the drill turning slowly.  So, a word of caution: Don't over-speed the saw or else you risk burning the temper out of the cutting teeth, rendering it useless. I also had a small bar magnet handy to pick up the chips. I first wrapped the magnet in a paper towel. That way I could unwrap the magnet over a trash can and let the chips fall away cleanly.   eddie    

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] transalp1@... [b]To: [/b]DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] 1/20/2010 3:08:06 PM [b]Subject:[/b] update

Recently, I reported that I'd done a tweety-ectomy / HMF exhaust tip modification following (previously) shimming the stock needle, drilling the slide hole, backing out the mixture screw approx. 1.75 turns and going with a UNI two-stage air filter (oiled foam like OEM). I've ridden the bike approximately 275 miles since last Friday and checked the fuel consumption for the 1st time yesterday. It returned 56.7mpg with 95% highway running at 55-60mph. Again, it idles & accellerates, etc... as a good running bike should with no surging on steady throttle or popping when decellerating. It was a slow process as time allowed. But, all of the mods above could probably be done in an afternoon for under $100, including buying a bi-metal hole saw to core the muffler. The return? A throatier but not loud-sounding bike with good manners and a tad more pep or willingness that the corked-up stock bike didn't have. It was fun, too! eddie   PS: The blind nuts and scews are holding the HMF tip in place just fine. The bead of silicone sealant I used to seal up the tip got on the threads as I put everything together. Must be working as it's tight as could be. =)

[spike55_bmw]

Well I've got it going. This afternoon I put on the cooling system plumbing (exisiting Thermo-Bob user), the exhaust header, and after performing the $0.22 mod and checking the floats, I installed the carb. I ran the engine for a short period of time and until the oil smoke stopped and I didn't hear the previous gear grinding noises. I drained the oil and looked for metal flakes like I was panning for gold. A few aluminum flakes but not many. I refilled and ran it again up to temperature with some throttle blips. Again, no gear grinding noises. This time, I shifted up and back down through the gears several times with ease and again without any odd noises. I drained it out again and it was pretty clean but then I pulled the filter and there was more than a few aluminum flakes in that (checked with a magnet). I have to admit, this filter was the one that was in there when I pulled the engine apart, so that aluminum could have been there from the bad old days of grinding noises. Now it is reloaded with new oil and a new filter but I'll leave it until tomorrow. Enough fun for one afternoon. If tomorrow's test run ends up filling the filter full of aluminum flakes then I have rethink what I thought was success. Don R100, A6F

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > I have the engine together enough to hold oil. No exhaust pipe, cooling system, or carb on it yet. Last night I filled it up with oil and used the starter to pump oil through the system. I'll repeat that over the next few days to make sure everything is wet that should be wet - input shaft in the gear box is hollow and oil comes out several ports to lube the gears. I'll have another opportunity to work on it Thursday afternoon. I should be able to run the engine (without counter-shaft sprocket, chain, rear wheel anchored in place) by then. Hopefully no more grinding noises from the gear box. > > Anyone drain their carb into a graduated cylinder to see how many milliliters are in a properly float-tuned carb bowl? > > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > With temps in the teens at night, I didn't work on my bike for awhile but the weather broke, temporarily, and I've been 'gettin'-r-done'. > > > > I glued the the two center halves together with YamaBond4 (that stuff will absolutely not end up on the oil screen) and used the proper torque specs this time (still seems on the whimpy side to me). > > > > I hand-carried the engine into the dealer's shop (pre-arranged). The boss got the snap ring I needed for the end of the tranny's output shaft (gets covered by the clutch) while the mechanic got out the special wrench to hold the clutch basket and his torque wrench. After I installed the snap ring, the mechanic and I tightened the clutch basket nut to 95 lb-ft (lb-ft still doesn't roll of the end of my tongue but I guess it s more proper than ft-lbs). Walked out with an $11 bill for several snap rings (counter-balance shafts) and free shop time. > > > > Today, I installed the clutch plates (same order / sides as they came off - might not matter), and the cover. Also put the oil screen back in and a new gasket (heavily greased the water pump seal). Finished off the water pump and then put the engine back in the frame after I greased the rear wheel bearings and re-installed the wheel that was off while I installed grease fittings on the rear suspension parts. > > > > I greased up the engine mounting bolts's shafts since all showed signs of corrosion. > > > > Then my youngest of 5 brothers brought over his chainsaw with the carb in pieces and he couldn't remember how it went together (unsure why he thought I would). After 3 hours of working with what seemed like a Chinese wood block puzzle, we got it running as badly as it was running before he took everything apart, so I guess that was an accomplishment - running again. > > > > I have to work on the top end tomorrow. Installing the piston, cylinder, chain guides, chains, and the head. It's getting there. > > > > Planning on the $0.22 mod while carb is out. Anyone known how much gas, in milliliters, should be in the carb bowl when the floats are set right? We shoot for 40 ml with our Bings on the old BMWs. > > > > Hopefully, I'll get to test run the engine by next week. Finger's crossed that the bad tranny noises are gone. > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote: > > > > > > Apparently, mine was off from the factory by one tooth on the crankshaft: the counter-balance lobes were properly timed to each other but not to the piston. > > > > > > After correcting at 20K+ miles, I din't 'feel' a lot of difference (handlebars, seat, footpegs). Mirrors were a little better. > > > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Eric J Foster wrote: > > > > > > > > After having ridden a KLR with the front balancer off by ONE tooth, I'd > > > > rather ride a washing machine in spin cycle with a concrete block in it. > > > > > > > > Just fix the bike. > > > > > > > > E > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Guns kill people like silverware made Rosie O'Donnel fat......... > > > > > > > > Eric J Foster > > > > www.xr650r.us > > > > http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?call=ke1lb-9&terra=4&radar=*** > > > > > > > > > >

[Ross Lindberg]

I hate to rain on your parade, but with all the work and expense you went through rebuilding your engine, you really should have put in a clean oil filter before you fired up the engine.  It is always possible that some debris from the previous damage could have gotten loose and damaged your new engine during start-up.

 

Also, as a former toolmaker, we always had a joke about ordering an aluminum magnet.  Aluminum is a non-ferrous metal meaning it won’t stick to a magnet. 

 

Hoping you have a good test run tomorrow, but please put a new filter in before you go.

 

Ross Lindberg

Fertile, MN 

 

[b]From:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] [b]On Behalf Of [/b]spike55_bmw [b]Sent:[/b] Thursday, January 21, 2010 8:31 PM [b]To:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_KLR650] Re: Balancer system removal - Got Fire

 

 

Well I've got it going. This afternoon I put on the cooling system plumbing (exisiting Thermo-Bob user), the exhaust header, and after performing the $0.22 mod and checking the floats, I installed the carb. I ran the engine for a short period of time and until the oil smoke stopped and I didn't hear the previous gear grinding noises. I drained the oil and looked for metal flakes like I was panning for gold. A few aluminum flakes but not many. I refilled and ran it again up to temperature with some throttle blips. Again, no gear grinding noises. This time, I shifted up and back down through the gears several times with ease and again without any odd noises. I drained it out again and it was pretty clean but then I pulled the filter and there was more than a few aluminum flakes in that (checked with a magnet). I have to admit, this filter was the one that was in there when I pulled the engine apart, so that aluminum could have been there from the bad old days of grinding noises. Now it is reloaded with new oil and a new filter but I'll leave it until tomorrow. Enough fun for one afternoon. If tomorrow's test run ends up filling the filter full of aluminum flakes then I have rethink what I thought was success. Don R100, A6F --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com, "spike55_bmw" wrote:

> > I have the engine together enough to hold oil. No exhaust pipe, cooling

system, or carb on it yet. Last night I filled it up with oil and used the starter to pump oil through the system. I'll repeat that over the next few days to make sure everything is wet that should be wet - input shaft in the gear box is hollow and oil comes out several ports to lube the gears. I'll have another opportunity to work on it Thursday afternoon. I should be able to run the engine (without counter-shaft sprocket, chain, rear wheel anchored in place) by then. Hopefully no more grinding noises from the gear box.

> > Anyone drain their carb into a graduated cylinder to see how many

milliliters are in a properly float-tuned carb bowl?

> > Don R100, A6F > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com,

"spike55_bmw" wrote:

> > > > With temps in the teens at night, I didn't work on my bike for awhile

but the weather broke, temporarily, and I've been 'gettin'-r-done'.

> > > > I glued the the two center halves together with YamaBond4 (that stuff

will absolutely not end up on the oil screen) and used the proper torque specs this time (still seems on the whimpy side to me).

> > > > I hand-carried the engine into the dealer's shop (pre-arranged). The

boss got the snap ring I needed for the end of the tranny's output shaft (gets covered by the clutch) while the mechanic got out the special wrench to hold the clutch basket and his torque wrench. After I installed the snap ring, the mechanic and I tightened the clutch basket nut to 95 lb-ft (lb-ft still doesn't roll of the end of my tongue but I guess it s more proper than ft-lbs). Walked out with an $11 bill for several snap rings (counter-balance shafts) and free shop time.

> > > > Today, I installed the clutch plates (same order / sides as they came

off - might not matter), and the cover. Also put the oil screen back in and a new gasket (heavily greased the water pump seal). Finished off the water pump and then put the engine back in the frame after I greased the rear wheel bearings and re-installed the wheel that was off while I installed grease fittings on the rear suspension parts.

> > > > I greased up the engine mounting bolts's shafts since all showed

signs of corrosion.

> > > > Then my youngest of 5 brothers brought over his chainsaw with the

carb in pieces and he couldn't remember how it went together (unsure why he thought I would). After 3 hours of working with what seemed like a Chinese wood block puzzle, we got it running as badly as it was running before he took everything apart, so I guess that was an accomplishment - running again.

> > > > I have to work on the top end tomorrow. Installing the piston,

cylinder, chain guides, chains, and the head. It's getting there.

> > > > Planning on the $0.22 mod while carb is out. Anyone known how much

gas, in milliliters, should be in the carb bowl when the floats are set right? We shoot for 40 ml with our Bings on the old BMWs.

> > > > Hopefully, I'll get to test run the engine by next week. Finger's

crossed that the bad tranny noises are gone.

> > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com,

"spike55_bmw" wrote:

> > > > > > Apparently, mine was off from the factory by one tooth on the

crankshaft: the counter-balance lobes were properly timed to each other but not to the piston.

> > > > > > After correcting at 20K+ miles, I din't 'feel' a lot of

difference (handlebars, seat, footpegs). Mirrors were a little better.

> > > > > > Don R100, A6F > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650%40yahoogroups.com,

Eric J Foster wrote:

> > > > > > > > After having ridden a KLR with the front balancer off by

ONE tooth, I'd

> > > > rather ride a washing machine in spin cycle with a concrete

block in it.

> > > > > > > > Just fix the bike. > > > > > > > > E > > > > > > > > -- > > > > Guns kill people like silverware made Rosie O'Donnel

fat.........

> > > > > > > > Eric J Foster > > > > www.xr650r.us > > > >

href="http://www.findu.com/cgi-bin/find.cgi?c ... a=4&radar=***

> > > > > > > > > >