Wilsons Sandbox

Went for a winter ride and front brake was non-existant. (yeah worse than usual) Oil had wept out of the forks, onto the front brake pad. Progressive springs, new fork oil and seals are in order. I see options from $7-8.00 on ebay to about $40 at the dealer. I am not into doing jobs twice as often to save a penny so I am looking for statements of facts rather than opinions on the best oil seals. I assume you should get the set that includes the 'wiper' seal also? I Lindsay Kent WA

I used aftermarket fork seals on my KLR which had a lifetime guarantee, however, they did not last one season.... I have since replaced them with OEM Kawasaki seals and had no problem last season.... I agree this is a job you do not want to have to repeat every six months! ---------------------------------------------------- Brent Tegler Fergus, Ontario, Canada ---------------------------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of fleetweldjr Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 2010 11:13 AM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Best fork seals ? Went for a winter ride and front brake was non-existant. (yeah worse than usual) Oil had wept out of the forks, onto the front brake pad. Progressive springs, new fork oil and seals are in order. I see options from $7-8.00 on ebay to about $40 at the dealer. I am not into doing jobs twice as often to save a penny so I am looking for statements of facts rather than opinions on the best oil seals. I assume you should get the set that includes the 'wiper' seal also? I Lindsay Kent WA

Get the bets deal on OEM seals you can find. My '90 Tengai is still on its original seals at 55,000 miles. I tried "Leak Proof" seals on another bike once. They lasted 2 weeks. Mark At 4:13 PM +0000 1/6/10, fleetweldjr wrote:

>Went for a winter ride and front brake was non-existant. (yeah >worse than usual) Oil had wept out of the forks, onto the front >brake pad. Progressive springs, new fork oil and seals are in order. > >I see options from $7-8.00 on ebay to about $40 at the dealer. I am >not into doing jobs twice as often to save a penny so I am looking >for statements of facts rather than opinions on the best oil >seals. I assume you should get the set that includes the 'wiper' >seal also? > >I Lindsay >Kent WA

Also, once you have the new seals installed, periodically, pull the fork boots up and wipe the tubes down with some WD-40 or trans fluid, then finish with a clean dry rag. This will help the seals last a very long time. TK [b]From:[/b] Tengai Mark Van Horn [b]To:[/b] fleetweldjr [b]Cc:[/b] DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Wed, January 6, 2010 11:42:58 AM [b]Subject:[/b] Re: [DSN_KLR650] Best fork seals ?   Get the bets deal on OEM seals you can find. My '90 Tengai is still on its original seals at 55,000 miles. I tried "Leak Proof" seals on another bike once. They lasted 2 weeks. Mark At 4:13 PM +0000 1/6/10, fleetweldjr wrote:

>Went for a winter ride and front brake was non-existant. (yeah >worse than usual) Oil had wept out of the forks, onto the front >brake pad. Progressive springs, new fork oil and seals are in order. > >I see options from $7-8.00 on ebay to about $40 at the dealer. I am >not into doing jobs twice as often to save a penny so I am looking >for statements of facts rather than opinions on the best oil >seals. I assume you should get the set that includes the 'wiper' >seal also? > >I Lindsay >Kent WA

I've had the DualSport LED installed for years and no problem with not DOT Legal TPI has LED tail/brake lights for KLR http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/ WVDoran Scottsdale, AZ

--- On [b]Thu, 12/31/09, PAT CINDY PATTERSON [i][/i][/b] wrote:

From: PAT CINDY PATTERSON Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Moose Stator To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, December 31, 2009, 10:26 AM   What LED components do you suggest to lower the amp draw on the stock stator?  Looking for high quality, reliable (stock part reliability or better) direct replacement parts.  I would like to add heated grips and a few other items but am concerned over the total amp draw.  Reducing the amp draw of necessary parts (while not adversely impacting safety) would certainly help.   Pat