Wilsons Sandbox

Listers, Today I had a thought about the importance of mods and farkles. What came to mind was a question of what would rate as a higher priority, installing a fuse in a power wire going from the battery to in front of the steering head or upgrading the doohickey? Then I made it more complicated with the fuse, doohickey and thermo-bob. Next I added a skid plate and then a magnetic drain plug. I then thought about protection for the bike and thought how a lot of folks use nerf bars or something similar. So my question to you is... what is the order of priority and your reasoning for such for the following eight items: - fuse in an always hot wire going in front of the steering head - doohickey and spring upgrade - Thermo-Bob install - Skid Plate - Magnetic drain plug (you decide low profile or not) - nerf bar type protection - barkbusters - LED brake light Thanks for your consideration and thoughtful answers. I'm looking forward to your responses. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Liberty University Online Earn a bachelors degree online in Nursing. Get free info now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=GVB0nYbYCO9ATbVWPragowAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAQAAAAFAAAAAJanMT8AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABSGmAAAAAA=

On Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:11:15 -0800 Steve writes:

> Hey Jeff! Any way you could turn this into a poll under the "new" > group > standards? > And by the way, I cast my vote on the poll for all attachments > "Attached"! > Vote people!! > Steve up in Chico

<><><><><> <><><><><> Steve, Thanks for the idea. No chance at all I'll do that. : ) But if you want to, feel free to go ahead. I don't like having to mess around on line with stuff like that. My dial up is pretty slow and it takes a lot of time to do things on the site and the web. Glad you voted. Last time I looked (didn't really like it but thought voting was important) there were less than 100 votes and the list has about 8,400 participants. So it looks like only about 1.2% of the list members voted. Seems like the majority don't care either way. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Liberty University Online Earn a bachelors degree online in Nursing. Get free info now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/c?cp=9SBFSfkQEdBEXiQiUSVpaAAAJ1DWfJIDP-R0_NC3mMpGFS0kAAQAAAAFAAAAAJanMT8AAAMlAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABSGmAAAAAA=

On Tue, Nov 24, 2009 at 12:35 AM, mechanizeinc wrote: snip I couldn't afford $60 for the radiator guard so I eventually spent $30 insurance co-pay at the foot doctor because I sacrafice my body to protect the dang radiator.

This is a classic example of why we need health care reform! I'm kidding of course...that was only a joke! I agree with Mech that the protection mods have a high priority and are essential if you are planning to take your KLR off pavement. For me though, the the most valuable mod has been installation of a larger front brake rotor. The larger rotor provides a marked increase in braking ability and greatly improves on-pavement performance and safety. I still haven't got around to installing a 12-volt outlet near the cockpit, so I guess that hasn't been high on my priority list. I have been meaning to do it though, and had all the parts and pieces in hand, but somehow they ended up on my son's bike! An early and inexpensive electrical mod that I did was to add a pigtail off the battery for plugging in a heated vest or a trickle charger. Also, I quickly grew tired of fiddling with the seat bolts every time I wanted to get under the skirts to check the battery, etc. so I got rid of the seat bolts and put some velcro on the bottom of the seat and the frame rails for easier access. -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:

> > Listers, > > Today I had a thought about the importance of mods and farkles. What > came to mind was a question of what would rate as a higher priority,

SNIP

> Jeff Saline

List- Jeff has asked some nice questions. Ultimately, I belive the poll question infers-- What is the best use of your limited bike monies-- A secondary function of the poll would indicate-- on a scale of 1-5, 1 being 'immediate'-- what would you buy. It has driven my own farkle chase--what (purchase) makes the most sense, now. Based on: What is going to be damaged under my current riding conditions, and how do I protect my investment. I especially enjoy the question because Jeff, by South Dakota standards, is a next-door-neighbor (only 225 miles to get to his house). I have had some incredible tutorial, farkling experience under his mechanical and electrical guidance--as well as riding thousands of miles together--as well as additional, long distance solo riding experiences. Most of the mechanicing and riding experiences would have been just a dream, without his help in making my first KLR bike, truly a USMC-style campaign bike. What better example than the Marine bike-- They chose the KLR because of its cost vs function-- and so do we. Take a look at the USMC pictures and see what they farkle. Primarily--I have used the criteria of farkle cost vs replacement cost, and began my armoring the bike from there = farkle now, or break, replace and farkle anyway. Thus, making one assumption-- If I am going to own a KLR, I am going to drop the bike. If that is so, then farkle now, or break, replace and farkle anyway. ie. I spend $30 for lever protectors or $7 to $14 every time I drop the bike. (At this rate, I must have saved countless levers from ultimate destruction.) And you eliminate the problem of carrying a spare lever or riding home with out a clutch/brake/lever, etc. Some have noted--they don't ride in more challenging conditions, but still manage to drop the bike in the yard, the driveway, the garage, (recently, Jeff K's horrific fall at the slimy intersection) and even at the gas station. I recall someone posted, "I dropped the bike at the gas pump--stood it up and dropped it on the other side as well." It happens. It will happen again. This person had lever protectors--clutch perch and mirror isolators installed, so no lever was broken--a sad situation in middle Wyoming or central CO. So, in celebration of 6 years of KLR ownership-- I remember that my lack-of-recent experience contributed to the things that I bought first. Unfortunately, the new-to-me bike, nearly-immediately brought about its own recent-experience when I dropped it in the yard in the first day or so. I noticed that the previous two owners had had the same problem, as witnessed by the slightly tweaked handle-bars and bent lever ends at the time of purchase. With that in mind--I farkled/armored to what would break when dropped. An exception to that-- I bought a 'pile' of stuff from a 65 y/o retiring KLR owner; Fieldsheer riding costume AL skid plate Wet wx riding suit Wet Wx gaiters for the feet PD-Nerf bars two sets of very nice gloves bike luggage and some other things. So I ended up with a skid plate and Nerf bars early. I was wanting that protection anyway-- But Jeff's original question: What to buy first--these listed below are #1's-priority Before else: #1 FARKLE!!!!!! Good, reliable bike insurance. Include COMPREHENSIVE insurance. If you have to ask why you should add comprehensive, you need to sell your bike (no wink)-- buy the insurance. Recently when adding the 3rd KLR (KLR250) to Progressive insurance, I insured it with Collision as well. Added cost, $1. (one dollar) I called a week later, how much to add collision to the previous two KLR650--cost? None. zero. nada. Amazing. It would seem they are not allowed to 'volunteer' such information--nor is it immediately available to them on the screen; you have to ask, "How much more to add comprehensive and collision." Then it is a toss up between the --bike clothing-- and the --better bike clothing--. Then, on to bike farkle. 1. Dohickey--by far the first thing. I believe the failure rate/failure to 'perform' =broken dohickey is ~1/3 as witnessed in Jeff Saline's garage. It is 50% between my two 650's 2. Center Stand--controversial by some--a maintenance god-send for those with limited tools. If you don't like it, some one else will buy it. 3. Lever protectors 4. Clutch perch mirror reposition--moves the mirror from the left switch quadrant to the clutch perch 5. Mirror isolators--allow the mirror to flex ~30degrees further when you drop the bike. 6. Brake billet 7. Rear brake reservoir armor 7.a Low profile, magnetic drain plug 7.b Stainless steel screws for the front brake reservoir Items 1-7a.b. could all be done easily in one afternoon/tech day. #2 items would be several of the things that Jeff listed-- 8. Fuse replacement: the one under the seat. Plug and play--easy to do 9. Battery Tender and SAE plug lead for accessories or battery charging. 10. perform the Swing Arm lube 11. Chain tension-er nuts (Nyloc or Fuji-Lock type nut) 12. Axle nuts =Fuji-Lock or constant torque nut 13 Jake nut like a Fuji-Lock #8-13 could be done in the same afternoon you do 1-7. These are the items that come to mind for immediate remedy. Notice that radiator protection in not even on the list from 1-13. Personally, if you are not using tank Panniers, it seems to me the radiator protection is over-rated. All the damage I have one to the radiator, fan and tank has occurred from the luggage attached to the tank. I like tank panniers--and if you do, you will most likely add radiator protection. I will say that the previoulsy installed 'C' style radiator protection only gets a 'C-' for grade, IMO. YMMV. I have noted that the size, and robustness of the 'C' shaped rad-guard on Jeff Saline's bike is significantly more robust, and he has not had any 'damage' to his radiator while riding with tank panniers. Then again, it seems he helps me pick up my bike--and I don't recall ever witnessing him dropping his bike but once. The (pre-08)HT P-D Nerf-Bars are good protection (B+, A- for grade)--but I have had to have them re-welded 3x in 6 years...But that might, just might be operator error encountered during a dirt nap. NOTE: I have seen the 'knock-off' HT P-D Nerf-Bar and the quality/material is not nearly as good. YMMV. revmaaatin.

On Tue, Nov 24, 2009 at 12:35 AM, mechanizeinc wrote: snip Engine case... $300 minimum. I couldn't afford no $100 aluminum so i doubled up 2X OEM plastic rivoted together w/ 1/8" rubber sheet sandwiched between.

If any one else would like to double up their OEM skid plate they are welcome to mine for the price of shipping. -- Kevin Powers White Bear Lake, MN

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote:

> > Listers, >

> my question to you is... what is the order of priority and your > reasoning for such for the following eight items: > > - fuse in an always hot wire going in front of the steering head

It has never occurred to me or been suggested to me why I would want this. Priority: D.A.L. (Dead Ass Last)

> > - doohickey and spring upgrade

Sometime about three or four months into KLR ownership, I became aware of a problem with the balancer idler adjuster quadrant (B.I.A.Q., or "bitch"). Somewhere early in my first or second season, I bought one from Jake, and installed it, with springs I got from Mike. Mine was fine, like about 67% of them, but I am glad I did it. Priority: 4

> > - Thermo-Bob install

By the time the Thermo Bob came on the scene, my KLR had about 40k on it, and was already getting a bit rattly. Started early enough, the Bob may add quite a bit to longevity, but for my bike, that train has already left the station. Priority: 7

> > - Skid Plate

Whenever I ride a bike off road, all kinds of rocks ricochet off whatever is on the bottom, unless I have a cheezy plastic skid plate on there; then they bust holes and cracks in it. Besides, Eldon Carl says it is unnecessary. Priority: 2

> > - Magnetic drain plug (you decide low profile or not)

The admin aod a forum where I am a moderator made some and gave them to his moderators. priority: 5

> > - nerf bar type protection

The second thing the break in a tipover is tank shrouds. It is real easy to bend the radiator, too, so some kind of protection is in order. The IMS tank gives the protection of nerf bars, plus adds about 75 miles range, at less cost than tp-line nerfs. Priority: 3

> > - barkbusters

The first time I rode my KLR, I got onto some black ice and highsided into a curb. The impact popped the snap on my riding leathers, and when I stood up, they fell down. More to the point, my clutch lever broke. My first purchase was a set of Rally Pros. Priority: 1

> > - LED brake light

Answer to the question nobody asked: Priority: 6

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Powers wrote:

> > On Tue, Nov 24, 2009 at 12:35 AM, mechanizeinc wrote: > > > snip > > > > > > Engine case... $300 minimum. I couldn't afford no $100 aluminum so i > > doubled up 2X OEM plastic rivoted together w/ 1/8" rubber sheet sandwiched > > between. > > > > If any one else would like to double up their OEM skid plate they are > welcome to mine for the price of shipping. > -- > Kevin Powers > White Bear Lake, MN >

Hmmm. You know, doubling the bottom is a great idea. And thrifty also. I just wonder how it possibly doubles the non-existing water pump protection? Just a thought. revmaaatin.