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3rd doohickey upgrade
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 12:56 pm
by spike55_bmw
It's official, installed my 3rd upgrade with the torsion spring: 2006 (mine), 2008 (brother's), and a 2005 (friend's). This one was different though. In the past, I was able to pull the torsion spring around and hook it into the doo (drilled the super-tight hole on the left side of flang) using my big long nose pliers. This time no-go.
I had to grind a small taper around the base (backside) of the doo. Hook the spring in the flang and then into the doo. Then I had to manually whined the doo & spring combo until it slipped on the shaft but... This method more times than not gets one or two coils of the spring under the doo and the doo is not flush with the tightening land. The slight taper I ground on the doo's backside acted like a circular wedge and centered the coils around the base of the doo and allowed the doo slide right down the middle on the shaft. Now it is flush with the flang's land for proper tightening.
I didn't have to grind the backside of the one-way starting gear's spokes as before. Maybe there are less coils on the newer springs? Three on this one. Seems to work fine. Upon start up, no scrapping noises - all good. Now I have to deal with the metal skidplate with messed up allen-head bolts.
Don R100, A6F
3rd doohickey upgrade
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 2:54 pm
by transalp 1
The torsion spring kit I got for my 09' was a bear to install when it came
time to fit the spring,too. (tiiiight)
Looking at the new doohickey vs. the OEM part, it fit on the shaft
perfectly. But, it was indexed/rotated differently in relation to the shaft
hole.
The aftermarket one was turned farther and I was wondering if I needed to
redrill the anchor hole several degrees counter clockwise to get the spring
to fit.
We got it on. It wasn't easy, though. Of course, the new doo went on with
> [Original Message]
> From: spike55_bmw
> To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
> Date: 10/6/2009 1:57:00 PM
> Subject: [DSN_KLR650] 3rd Doohickey Upgrade
>
> It's official, installed my 3rd upgrade with the torsion spring: 2006
(mine), 2008 (brother's), and a 2005 (friend's). This one was different
though. In the past, I was able to pull the torsion spring around and hook
it into the doo (drilled the super-tight hole on the left side of flang)
using my big long nose pliers. This time no-go.
>
> I had to grind a small taper around the base (backside) of the doo. Hook
the spring in the flang and then into the doo. Then I had to manually
whined the doo & spring combo until it slipped on the shaft but... This
method more times than not gets one or two coils of the spring under the
doo and the doo is not flush with the tightening land. The slight taper I
ground on the doo's backside acted like a circular wedge and centered the
coils around the base of the doo and allowed the doo slide right down the
middle on the shaft. Now it is flush with the flang's land for proper
tightening.
>
> I didn't have to grind the backside of the one-way starting gear's spokes
as before. Maybe there are less coils on the newer springs? Three on this
one. Seems to work fine. Upon start up, no scrapping noises - all good.
Now I have to deal with the metal skidplate with messed up allen-head bolts.
>
> Don R100, A6F
>
3rd doohickey upgrade
Posted: Tue Oct 06, 2009 5:25 pm
by Jeff Saline
On Tue, 06 Oct 2009 17:56:48 -0000 "spike55_bmw"
writes:
SNIP
Now I have to deal with the metal skidplate with
> messed up allen-head bolts.
>
> Don R100, A6F
<><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><>
Don,
If the bolts are still installed and the sockethead is messed up here's a
suggestion for removal.
Get a nut for each bolt. Something that is thick and maybe has a hole
just smaller than the outside diameter of the bolt head. Take the bike
to an exhaust shop and ask them to weld the nuts to the heads of the
bolts. They just plug weld the center of the nuts to the bolt heads.
Then put a wrench on the outside of the nut and back the nut and bolt
out.
I had to do this on my bike his year. It works best if you weld the nut
on the bolt with the messed up head. : ) I had to buy two bolts to fix
the original one damaged bolt after welding the nut on the wrong bolt the
first time.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
.
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3rd doohickey upgrade
Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:05 am
by Monty
Don - Thought I'd read that the new model KLR's had addressed the "doohickey" issue. This isn't correct?
Amazing they could leave the issue open after finally making significant changes to the bike.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
3rd doohickey upgrade
Posted: Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:36 am
by spike55_bmw
Kawi did change the Doo on the 2008-forward. It is a heavier cast piece of metal vs the thin, brittle, welded together unit in the pre-2008 KLRs. My brother wanted the billet stainless steel Doo (still much better than OEM) and spring upgrade, so I did it. I'm not sure if someone could just address the tension to torsion spring conversion and utilize the improved OEM Doo. If you can, I'd only spend the --- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Monty wrote:
>
> Don - Thought I'd read that the new model KLR's had addressed the "doohickey" issue. This isn't correct?
>
> Amazing they could leave the issue open after finally making significant changes to the bike.
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>