Wilsons Sandbox

I believe this is what your looking for.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206411 To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com From: oldwing@... Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2009 17:38:43 -0400 Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Air horn mounting Sometime back someone had step by step plans on how to mount a Stieb Nautalas air horn under the right side of the tank. I thought that I had saved it but can not find it. If anyone has that info, I would greatky appeciate a copy or a link to it. Thanks, I'm getting tired of avoiding cages and hope to blast some back off the road. -- Bill Lewis Roanoke, Virginia Professor of Motorcycleology 2004 R1150RT For Sale 1990 R100RT 2002 KLR 1978 Oldwing w/Friendship 1 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks Mike, That is what I was looking for. Bill ---- Mike Huber wrote:

> > I believe this is what your looking for.... > > http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206411 > > > > > > > To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > From: oldwing@... > Date: Sat, 27 Jun 2009 17:38:43 -0400 > Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Air horn mounting > > > > > > > > Sometime back someone had step by step plans on how to mount a Stieb Nautalas air horn under the right side of the tank. I thought that I had saved it but can not find it. If anyone has that info, I would greatky appeciate a copy or a link to it. Thanks, I'm getting tired of avoiding cages and hope to blast some back off the road. > -- > Bill Lewis > Roanoke, Virginia > Professor of Motorcycleology > > 2004 R1150RT > For Sale 1990 R100RT > 2002 KLR > 1978 Oldwing w/Friendship 1 > > > > > > > >

-- Bill Lewis Roanoke, Virginia Professor of Motorcycleology 2004 R1150RT For Sale 1990 R100RT 2002 KLR 1978 Oldwing w/Friendship 1

On Fri, 26 Jun 2009 22:37:28 -0000 "kevbennett@..." writes:

> Hoping for some help with the speedometer on my '96 KLR. Everything > was peachy, then the needle started wandering a bit during a ride. > Next ride, everything's great. Next ride, everythings great for 30 > miles, then it reads about half speed for 30 miles, then it hovers > around 10 mph even though I'm going 70. Today, everything is great > for 20 miles, then the needle goes dead, although it comes to life > again when I do a hard left turn with plenty of lean. > > I've checked the connections at both ends of the speedo cable. I > removed the front wheel and checked the mechanism in there; nothing > seemed out of place. Seems like it has to be something in the > speedometer itself. I'm just a bit reluctant to dive in there. > > Your ideas and suggestions are welcome! > > Kevin

<><><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><>*<><><>*<><><>*<><><> Kevin, Haven't seen a response to your speedo question so thought I'd ask a question and make a suggestion or two. Does the odometer still work even when the speedo isn't working? My guess is you have something binding around the magnet and disk that drive the speedo needle. The instrument cluster is pretty easy to remove if you are willing to remove a few parts to get to what you need to get to. Once you get the instrument cluster off the bike you can go to the bench or kitchen table to work on the assembly. I like to use a towel on the surface to help prevent damage to the cluster/instruments and also contain any fasteners I drop. When you get the speedo out do not touch the face with the numbers on it or the inside of the housing clear viewing area. Fingerprints are hard to get out of there without scratching the surface and the numbers on the face and the face will maybe flake off or show oil prints and you won't easily remove them. I suggest you gently move the needle to make sure it moves freely and bounces back by itself. Gently blow out the drive area with the magnet/cup to remove any debris that's been caught there. Lube the rotating shaft for the needle with instrument oil, 3 in 1 oil or sewing machine oil. Do not use WD-40 or motor oil. You only need about 1/2 drop of oil for the shaft to bushing contact areas. A tooth pick might help with accurate application. While the speedo is off the cable you can try turning the cable with your fingers. It shouldn't turn very far as it should be connected at the wheel and be locked in place in the drive housing. The end of the cable shouldn't be mangled or frayed. If you want to lube the cable I suggest white lithium grease but a wheel bearing grease should work well too. Do not lube a dirty cable. Clean the ends before you remove the cable from the liner so you don't introduce dirt to the inside of the liner. It's probably easiest to clean the cable before you disconnect it from the drive housing or instrument. Watch for tiny washers on the ends of the cable so you can put them back where they came from. Hope this is helpful. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT . ____________________________________________________________ Criminal Lawyers - Click here. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTOVoLNszfeYMfJqQbMlUvcBxuCWu0FbrCnE2T6J0C80aFnTDyi02s/

Bill, I've seen similar requests, comments, and schemes for replacing horns. As a small boat builder and engineer, I'm a firm believer in the 'K.I.S.S. Principle'. If the purpose of this mod is the occasional THREATENINGLY LOUD blast, there may be a very simple -and inexpensive- solution. I've noticed 'cup {or can} holders' that attach to handlebars. A Marine portable 'Air Horn' {basically a horn attached to a replaceable air canister} should fit quite nicely. Or a 'nautical' holder could be purchased and a mount rigged. Take my word for it . . . they are REALLY loud !! Regards & Good Luck, Ron Magen Backyard Boatshop

> Posted by: "oldwing@..." oldwing@... gdsnitch > Date: Sat Jun 27, 2009 2:39 pm ((PDT)) >

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> Sometime back someone had step by step plans on how to mount a Stieb > Nautalas air horn under the right side of the tank. > Bill Lewis

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