mefos and fred

[Randall Marbach]

Hi All I am about to replace my countershaft and rear sprockets and chain for the first time. I have 17K miles on the originals using WD40 and they still look OK... but I want to do this for preventative reasons. Any tips/tricks or techniques for removing the countershaft sprocket? How about for the rear sprocket? TIA Randy from Burbank [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[John Biccum]

Consider the OEM countershaft nut a single use fastener, get a prevailing torque nut to replace it. You can take the stocker off with a 1- 1/16 (fractional size) socket, as it is a perfect 27mm. You will need to get a 30mm for the prevailing torque nut. I sit on the bike in the riding position and use a drive torque wrench with a short extension to remove the countershaft nut. Hold the rear brake on to prevent the wheel from turning as you work the nut. Twice I have sheared off the studs when replacing the driven sprocket and using a torque wrench to drive the nuts down. Maybe the factory torque is too high or the studs they use are poor quality. The broken stud can be removed with two nuts and a wrench. The studs are hard to find locally. I found that I could use a hex head bolt installed into the stud location then cut off the head with a hacksaw. Now I use only a box end wrench to install the nuts and I tighten then just enough . I also use locktite, I found that Kawasaki parts outlast the aftermarket parts in both the drive and driven sprocket locations. The OEM drive sprocket also vibrates less than the aftermarket parts, I suspect due to its rubber cladding. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Randall Marbach Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 15:31 To: KLR Group Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Countershaft and Rear Sprocket Remove and Replacement Hi All I am about to replace my countershaft and rear sprockets and chain for the first time. I have 17K miles on the originals using WD40 and they still look OK... but I want to do this for preventative reasons. Any tips/tricks or techniques for removing the countershaft sprocket? How about for the rear sprocket? TIA Randy from Burbank [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote:

> > Consider the OEM countershaft nut a single use fastener, get a prevailing > torque nut to replace it. You can take the stocker off with a 1- 1/16 > (fractional size) socket, as it is a perfect 27mm. You will need to get a > 30mm for the prevailing torque nut. I sit on the bike in the riding > position and use a drive torque wrench with a short extension to remove > the countershaft nut.

Hi John, Just curious- Why do you use a torque wrench to remove a torqued fastener? instead of say- a breaker bar? revmaaatin. prevailing torque nuts are the catz meow.

[Ross Lindberg]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote: > > > > Consider the OEM countershaft nut a single use fastener, get a prevailing > > torque nut to replace it. You can take the stocker off with a 1- 1/16 > > (fractional size) socket, as it is a perfect 27mm. You will need to get a > > 30mm for the prevailing torque nut. I sit on the bike in the riding > > position and use a drive torque wrench with a short extension to remove > > the countershaft nut. > > Hi John, > Just curious- > Why do you use a torque wrench to remove a torqued fastener? > instead of say- > a breaker bar? > > revmaaatin. prevailing torque nuts are the catz meow. >

I almost hate to bring this up, but a torque wrench is a precision tool that should NEVER be used to remove a fastener. They should be used ONLY to install a fastener. Ross Lindberg Fertile, MN

[Rick McCauley]

May I ask why it can't be re-used Rick (drowning in Illinois) A17

--- On Tue, 4/28/09, John Biccum wrote: From: John Biccum Subject: RE: [DSN_KLR650] Countershaft and Rear Sprocket Remove and Replacement To: "'Randall Marbach'" , "'KLR Group'" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Date: Tuesday, April 28, 2009, 9:35 PM Consider the OEM countershaft nut a single use fastener, get a prevailing torque nut to replace it. You can take the stocker off with a 1- 1/16 (fractional size) socket, as it is a perfect 27mm. You will need to get a 30mm for the prevailing torque nut. I sit on the bike in the riding position and use a drive torque wrench with a short extension to remove the countershaft nut. Hold the rear brake on to prevent the wheel from turning as you work the nut. Twice I have sheared off the studs when replacing the driven sprocket and using a torque wrench to drive the nuts down. Maybe the factory torque is too high or the studs they use are poor quality. The broken stud can be removed with two nuts and a wrench. The studs are hard to find locally. I found that I could use a hex head bolt installed into the stud location then cut off the head with a hacksaw. Now I use only a box end wrench to install the nuts and I tighten then just enough . I also use locktite, I found that Kawasaki parts outlast the aftermarket parts in both the drive and driven sprocket locations. The OEM drive sprocket also vibrates less than the aftermarket parts, I suspect due to its rubber cladding. From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com] On Behalf Of Randall Marbach Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 15:31 To: KLR Group Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Countershaft and Rear Sprocket Remove and Replacement Hi All I am about to replace my countershaft and rear sprockets and chain for the first time. I have 17K miles on the originals using WD40 and they still look OK... but I want to do this for preventative reasons. Any tips/tricks or techniques for removing the countershaft sprocket? How about for the rear sprocket? TIA Randy from Burbank [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[rustygreasy]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ross Lindberg" wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "John Biccum" wrote: > > > > > > Consider the OEM countershaft nut a single use fastener, get a prevailing > > > torque nut to replace it. You can take the stocker off with a 1- 1/16 > > > (fractional size) socket, as it is a perfect 27mm. You will need to get a > > > 30mm for the prevailing torque nut. I sit on the bike in the riding > > > position and use a drive torque wrench with a short extension to remove > > > the countershaft nut. > > > > Hi John, > > Just curious- > > Why do you use a torque wrench to remove a torqued fastener? > > instead of say- > > a breaker bar? > > > > revmaaatin. prevailing torque nuts are the catz meow. > > > I almost hate to bring this up, but a torque wrench is a precision tool that should NEVER be used to remove a fastener. They should be used ONLY to install a fastener. > > Ross Lindberg > Fertile, MN >

I can't state for the rest but a dial type torque wrench can be used in either direction. I have a Snap On Torquometer and the description states "Guaranteed Accuracy: Within 2% of the reading from 20% of full scale to full scale clockwise and counterclockwise."

[Jeff Saline]

On Thu, 30 Apr 2009 02:21:53 -0000 "rustygreasy" writes:

> I can't state for the rest but a dial type torque wrench can be used > in either direction. I have a Snap On Torquometer and the > description states "Guaranteed Accuracy: Within 2% of the reading > from 20% of full scale to full scale clockwise and > counterclockwise."

<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> rustygreasy, Today while subbing in the automotive section of the local technical school I got to mess with a cut-a-way of a Snap-On Torqometer. You sure are correct about it being ok to use it in either direction. Kind of interesting to see exactly how it works by watching the mechanism while applying torque. But that is the exception instead of the rule for most torque wrenches. I'll venture to say that for most clicker style torque wrenches you should only use them for tightening applications unless you are planning on have the calibration checked after loading in the "other" direction. Parts inside can be damaged or knocked out of alignment by loading in the opposite direction although it won't always be obvious or happen every time. You are lucky to have a Torqometer. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Click to find information on your credit score and your credit report. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/BLSrjpTIkRp02ZxeoAJpYSpdyJwdue0AqzmAbAv2LxmzKGGT55VWytKDfZO/

[Rick McCauley]

Makes sense. What do I use in it's place? Rick (drowning in Illinois) A17

--- On Wed, 4/29/09, Jud Jones wrote: From: Jud Jones Subject: Re: Countershaft and Rear Sprocket Remove and Replacement To: ramachm12@... Date: Wednesday, April 29, 2009, 7:04 PM --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Rick McCauley wrote: > > May I ask why it can't be re-used > It can be, but why would you continue to wrestle with the high torque of the stock nut (long breaker bar and big fat buddy to hold the bike down while you reef on it) and screw around with the tab washer when you can turn your sprocket swap into a ten-minute affair? [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[fasteddiecopeman]

You are RIGHT that a torque wrench can be used in EITHER direction UP TO FULL SCALE!!! When you try to use one as a "breaker bar" you end up WAY OVER full scale, and that's where you CAN/ WILL break the wrench! Don't do it. The ratchet is reversible to allow the torque wrench to be used to torque both NORMAL (right hand) and REVERSE (left hand) threads, NOT to function as a breaker bar. Ed

> I can't state for the rest but a dial type torque wrench can be used in either direction. I have a Snap On Torquometer and the description states "Guaranteed Accuracy: Within 2% of the reading from 20% of full scale to full scale clockwise and counterclockwise." >

[Rick McCauley]

I may have to put pontoons on the KLR if it doesn't stop raining. No floods. Rains for 2 days, takes a day off, rains for another 2 days takes a day off. etc. The fields are so muddy that none of the farmers can get in them, and the creeks are like rivers. Rick (drowning in Illinois) A17

--- On Thu, 4/30/09, revmaaatin wrote: From: revmaaatin Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: MEFOs and Fred To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Thursday, April 30, 2009, 3:32 PM --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Rick McCauley wrote: > > I think we should just let it drop. We are all friends here. > It was a misunderstanding. Let us speak of it no more. > > > Rick (drowning in Illinois) > A17 > Hey Rick, Just between us friends, If you are still drowning, Get in the boat! or the helo. revmaaatin. I like helo's. (seriously-- who really hopes you are not losing your home or family to floods.) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]