Richard, That is an extraordinarily good suggestion for field maintenance. 2X thanks. =best new suggestion in weeks! Richard for Prez!!! or at least KLR King for a Day If I might build on that as well-- If you have the plug out, with the fuel on-(stock OEM system) Touch the starter to 'blow' fuel/fluid/junk past the needle valve. DO NOT LOOK AT THE DRAIN PLUG HOLE when you do this, --Unless you have an eye wash station handy. You will get an eye full....yeah, ask me how I know (almost--but, Close enough to qualify for the T-shirt What you will witness is that evertime the thumper, thumps, the vaccum system 'squirts' fuel, dare I say--under pressure, cause that is what it looks like--into the fuel bowl. Anything there, unless the grit particle/junk is just massive, it will hopefully blow right into the bowl--and hopefully right out the drain hole (and not into your eye!). The point being--with the fuel bowl plug removed and the fuel tap 'on', it will blow fuel/fluid out that drain hole at an alarming rate! Scary alarming rate. What is good to know: It works especially well in pumping trapped water (Put the petcock on reserve) out of the tank. revmaaatin. whose KLR decidedly WILL NOT run on water _________________________________________________________________ Create a cool, new character for your Windows Live Messenger. http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9656621> > > This has usually worked for me ... > >> A lite tap on the carb =butt of a large screwdriver where the fuel enters might >> dislodge the offending float needle. > ---------------------------------- > *** NEXT, TRY THIS ***. Turn the fuel off at the tap. Drain the float bowl. If the bike can be started, you can just run it until it uses up the fuel in the bowl - no need to even touch it with a spanner or screwdriver if you're out on the road and want to get going again ASAP. Then cross your fingers and turn the fuel back on. > > This often works because most times like this there's just a bit of junk jammed between the needle & seat holding the valve partly open. If the bowl is full, the float pushes up and the needle holds the junk against the seat. When you drain the bowl, the needle drops and the junk is released. If it's not too big, the junk will be washed through when you turn the fuel back on. > > Of course you should drain the float bowl afterwards, otherwise the junk could then cause mischief elsewhere in the carb. The KLR has a hex-head plug on the muffler side, which I assume you just loosen. > ---------------------------------- >> If that does not work, a partial tear down will be required. > --- >
stuck float? gas runs out of drain mast
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stuck float? gas runs out of drain mast
Howdy Richard et al,
I had a problem that I figured was the float valve sticking and I developed solution similar to Richard's. That was turning the petcock valve to the OFF position as I rode when I heard the engine sounding like it was choking on too much fuel. This seemed to work on my engine when it would not otherwise run at less that 3,000 rpms. I ran the bike for a couple of minutes with the petcock switched off before turning it back on. This seemed to work for me. Cleaning the carb manually or by running some Seafoam through it was a longer term cure.
Best of luck!!
Jim A5
Richard Bassett wrote:
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