Wilsons Sandbox

If my memory is correct I was taught to place the copper piece to be annealed on a piece of steel somewhat thicker than the copper then heat the copper by heating the steel to a dull red (it's easier to see the color with steel). Hold the color for a time so that the copper reaches the same temp - yes, that's a judgement call - then tip the copper piece off the steel so it falls edge-on into the water. Use this for any copper head or flange gasket or sealing washer. L Dodge

--- On Wed, 1/7/09, fasteddiecopeman wrote: From: fasteddiecopeman Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re:Oil drain plug washers To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, January 7, 2009, 9:23 AM J, No need tp replace them - just keep re-annealing them forever, or till they break! Ed --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, "nakedwaterskier" wrote: > > I could have sworn that you cool slowly...But, mine have been annealed > several times already. So, time for some new ones. > > J > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

At 04:34 AM 1/8/2009, maudibbb wrote:

>Copper and steel are not the same when it comes to annealing and >hardening. Different metals, aluminum as an example, perform >differently when heating/cooling. In the case of copper, once >annealed, whether cooled slowly or quenched rapidly, the results are >pretty much the same.

Yes! Hot copper is usually quenched for convenience (and safety), but it's annealed as soon as it gets hot enough. There are some unusual bronzes that can be alloyed to exhibit some slight quench-hardening, but gasket copper is just not gonna care. The other really important difference between steel and copper during the annealing process -- for those who have never done it -- is that copper conducts heat VERY QUICKLY. It is possible to heat one end of a steel bar to cherry red while holding the other end in your hand. Try that with (for example) a piece of copper pipe, and you'll get a terrible surprise -- the heat you put into the work-end will show up in the handle-end in a matter of a few seconds. That is why it can be difficult to anneal the end of a big copper bar -- you end up having to get the entire bar very hot in order to get the end hot enough to reach annealing temperature, and the ordinary little shop-grade propane torch often doesn't put out enough heat.

I just bend a piece of coat hanger to hold the washer, fire up the propane torch, heat the washer till it's glowing red and dump it into a cup of water. BINGO - done! Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Lee Dodge wrote: > > If my memory is correct I was taught to place the copper piece to be annealed on a piece of steel somewhat thicker than the copper then heat the copper by heating the steel to a dull red (it's easier to see the color with steel). Hold the color for a time so that the copper reaches the same temp - yes, that's a judgement call - then tip the copper piece off the steel so it falls edge-on into the water. Use this for any copper head or flange gasket or sealing washer. > > L Dodge

With all the discussion about annealing the oil plug washer, I was wondering if you could do the same to the exhaust gasket ??? It seems to be copper also. I bought an 06 KLR about 5 mo. ago off ebay and the guy will not send me a clear title So I bought a 05 frame with a clear title and I'm in the process of swapping frames so I can get it licensed....The good thing is I can do all the reqired mantainance while it's apart....The bad thing is It was 78 degrees down here in Carlsbad NM and my bike is in pieces Mike Huber Da new guy on da list !!! To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.comFrom: fasteddiecopeman@...: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 04:22:07 +0000Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: annealing Copper I just bend a piece of coat hanger to hold the washer, fire up the propane torch, heat the washer till it's glowing red and dump it into a cup of water.BINGO - done!Ed--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Lee Dodge wrote:>> If my memory is correct I was taught to place the copper piece to be annealed on a piece of steel somewhat thicker than the copper then heat the copper by heating the steel to a dull red (it's easier to see the color with steel). Hold the color for a time so that the copper reaches the same temp - yes, that's a judgement call - then tip the copper piece off the steel so it falls edge-on into the water. Use this for any copper head or flange gasket or sealing washer.> > L Dodge [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

How much are these copper rings that it is worth annealing them? Haven t gotten that far into the Mileage on the klr yet so I really don t know how much they cost Re: annealing Copper Posted by: "Lee Dodge" ldodge3082@... ldodge3082 Wed Jan 7, 2009 11:04 pm (PST) If my memory is correct I was taught to place the copper piece to be annealed on a piece of steel somewhat thicker than the copper then heat the copper by heating the steel to a dull red (it's easier to see the color with steel). Hold the color for a time so that the copper reaches the same temp - yes, that's a judgement call - then tip the copper piece off the steel so it falls edge-on into the water. Use this for any copper head or flange gasket or sealing washer. L Dodge

--- On Wed, 1/7/09, fasteddiecopeman wrote:

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Skypilot" wrote:

> > How much are these copper rings that it is worth annealing them? Haven't > gotten that far into the Mileage on the klr yet so I really don't know how > much they cost

It's NOT how much they cost - it's about not wasting things; and also about changing your oil then realizing you don't have a new copper gasket...! Ed

I am in Fort Myers but may be able to deliver anywhere between here and Cabool MO. It is listed on craiglist for Fort Myers. http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/mcy/992982479.html Here is the add: Why spend a few thousand dollars and tons of time to get your KLR ready for a road trip when I have already done it for you? Everything has already been done to this bike to make it ready to ride across the US or across the world. I am in Fort Myers FL but could deliver it if you call soon enough anywhere between here and Cabool MO. 2006 KLR with 30K miles, have run synthetic Amsoil and changed every 5K miles and it gets 50 MPG! Thousands of $ worth of extras including Wolf tank bag and panniers, Corbin seat, large aluminum travel panniers, military sealed battery, crash bars, Acerbis hand protectors, big foot kick stand foot, center stand, center skid pan, tall wind shield, thorn resistant tubes and green goop, electrically heated riding jacket, new chain and sprockets, valves adjusted, permanent air cleaner and oil filter, "dohickey" updated, clutch, kickstand & start switches are bypassed, GPS bracket, turn signal buzzer, magnetic drain plug, repair manuals, a helmet, motorcycle cover, custom tool kit and tool box, super duty ratchet straps to tie it down, super heavy cable and lock to secure it, and too much more to list. Joe 239-297-4189 The only thing wrong with it is the seat seam has come apart and is taped over, and a small weld on the aluminum pannier cover is cracked but not an issue really. The only thing that I might do to it would be to strengthen the springs all the way around. This big was well maintained and has everything that you can imagine already done to it and will serve you well too. Thanks, Joe