Tom,
The article you posted is great.
The missing piece, for me, is the Voltmeter -- the quickest way to
find answers to battery questions

If your battery has been trickle-charged successfully and you have
just disconnected it five minutes ago, the voltage across the
terminals should be at least 12.8 V.
If a battery at 12.8 V fails to make the KLR starter turn over, then
the problem is not the battery -- it's most likely, in my experience,
to be some kind of "bad connection" involving battery, starter, and
ignition switch.
If the battery registers much less than 12.8 V (for example, if it
registers 12.1 V or less) then the trickle charger probably wasn't
charging. A battery that registers 12.1 V or less is for practical
purposes "completely discharged".
So, while still measuring the voltage, you could reconnect the
trickle charger.
1) If the voltage immediately jumps to some high number
(e.g., anything above 14.0 or so) then the battery is Toast.
2) If the voltage immediately jumps to 12.1 or 12.2 or some
other not-much-higher number, then your trickle charger is now
charging the battery and it is worth waiting a while and seeing if
the voltmeter eventually gets to 13-point-something. If so, the
battery may be reasonably healthy, and should then start the KLR
without difficulty.
3) If essentially nothing happens, then you should suspect
that the trickle charger is Toast, in which case Tests #1 and #2
above would be inconclusive and you'll have to try them with a
different trickle charger (or real charger).
In my experience, (1) fairly new batteries can still be Toast, and
this fact can be proven most easily by Test #1 above; the fact that
the fluids are okay doesn't prove that the battery is
okay. Contamination of the fluid and plate damage can cause battery
failure at a young age. (2) Bad connections in the battery circuits
(starting, ignition, or charging) can make great batteries look like
trash. A really cheap Voltmeter lets you choose your hypothesis very
quickly. "Really cheap" means five bucks, but even the sophisticated
thirteen-dollar variety (e.g.,
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_12496_12496)
can be used if you can't find one in the two-dollar bin at your local
auto parts store ... I tend to own three or four at any given time,
because bad things happen to them and I like to have a couple of spares.
My experience is limited to about fifty years of marine electrical
systems, forty years of automotive electrical systems, and only ten
years of motorcycle electrical systems, so you should take what I say
with the appropriate grains of salt.
Lou McIntosh
green 2008 KLR
southern Maine
At 05:43 PM 1/9/2009, Tom Zangla wrote:
>Went out to go for a ride (25 degrees) today and the KLR would not
>turn over. I took the battery out to check the fluid level and it
>was in specs.
>
>This battery was hooked up to a trickle charger and I had just
>disconnected it. I took the battery out and brought it in the house
>and hooked up another trickle charger and nothing showed on the charger.
>
>I had another battery and hooked the charger to it and it showed that
>the trickle charger was working.
>
>This is the second time I have had this happen. Last winter I had a
>AGM battery that went dead and I could not get the trickle charger to
>work on it. I sent it back and they e mailed me back that the AGM
>battery had been totally discharged but they got it charged back up.
>
>When I turned off the ignition and locked the forks I check to make
>sure the tail light is not on when I park it.
>
>A couple of questions. What do you think could at times be draining
>the battery? If a battery gets too far drained will a trickle charger
>work on it? How can I test this dead batter to find out what is
>the problem with it.
>
>Thanks in advance
>Tom
>SW Pennsylvania