Wilsons Sandbox

Doubt it, but it might eat them for lunch. BUT if it did blow the seals at least they would be Happy Seals. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, D Critchley wrote: > > > If you used whale oil, do you think it might blow your seals? > DC > > > > > > > > > > Just say for just a minute that you did order your BMW and shipped > > it to > > > Antarctica, what oil would you use/recommend??? > > >

The Rubber things.. basically just help keep the noise down (EPA noise thing), aftermarkets do not have it. Assuming you managed to break the nut free, I swear the factory uses a 1" Impact or something to mount it. With the bending washer thing, tight only needs to be tight enough to keep it from moving around. Snug it and give it a grunt or so and rebend the washer thing to keep it from working loose. Its not that complicated, but I always give it a eyeball to make sure things look straight when spinning the wheel (by hand) to ensure the sprockets and chain roll smooth. DO NOT TRUST the marks on the adjusters, worse case measure the distance from swingarm to rim on both sides, eyeballing it from behind can pretty much see any any difference when spinning the wheel by hand. Hint: I found a Rubber mallet works well to prop the bike up to spin by hand, if its inserted under the right rear tit of the swingarm. I lean the bike into me from the leftside and stick the handle end of a mallet/hammer/chunk of wood to hold the bike up, also I stick a piece of 2x4 under the kickstand end so at least the bike is kinda almost upright anyway. Unless I am not lazy then I use the MC/ATV jack I bought. Most of this stuff is pretty simple, some on the list here tend to go overboard with details, but common sense and some mechanical knowledge goes a long way with a KLR. Myself I have turned a few wrenches in my lifetime and only time I used a torque wrench was to snug Cam Caps doing a valve adjustment and only on a few of them just to get a feel for whatever the torque value was and continued just using my hands as a judge. (not recommended) Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bali_blu" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > > > Most Likely. > > > > I had my wife pretty much standing on the rear brake lever using the > > rear wheel and chain to hold the c/s shaft from turning and if I > > remember had a large piece of pipe on the ratchet handle to break it > free. > > > > Even if you attempt compression and in gear I betcha the engine will > > just turn over before the nut is loose, if the factory put it on. > > > > Automagic decompression and all. > > > > My guess is do all the rest, put chain back on the bike and break it > > free using the chain/brake to hold it. > > > > Good Luck > > > > Dooden > > A15 Green Ape > > > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bali_blu" wrote: > > > > > > I got ahead of myself while changing my chain andfront and rear > > > sprockets. After I removed the rear wheel and chain (original and > > > continuous so the swing arm is out too)I went to remove the front > > > sprocket. The Clymers instructs one to remove said sprocket with the > > > wheel/chain installed. Does it make a difference? am I going too > > > damage the engine/transmission in any way if i remove it with only > > > compression and gearing as my resistance? > > > > > > Roger > > > > > > > OK I remounted the wheel. got everything off and there are a couple of > rubber 'washers' on either side of the front sprocket. most of the > nubs that mount it on the sprocket are worn off. Do I reused this > thing? or do i move on without it? > > TIA > Roger >