2004 klr-a18 w/ 2000 miles - now what? noobie question

[dooden]

As always Jeff points to very good ideas. But, I might move that Swingarm Lube up the list a bit higher myself, as would I get them valve clearances checked soon also, checking them is pretty easy, swapping the shims is much more work. The Swingarms basically come dry, mine had light film of grease and was difficult to remove the long bolt when the bike was fairly new still. Now I am not worried about it since I packed the needle bearings and greased very well, rather wipe up excess grease than have a dry bearing. Bearing not being the issue, bearings are cheap, but if that bolt is corroded good luck getting it out. Believe somebody had to strip the frame and use a press few years back to get his out. Mine moved nicely with a few hammer hits and a long punch to push it out the other side. Doohickey is not that hard to do if you can handle tools, many have tools and might even let ya use them, or as with this list some might even bring them over and help. Good luck ask away and remember to keep the rubber side down ( at least when the police are around) Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 14:57:00 -0000 "Byrd" writes: > > Okay, I'm now the proud owner of a 2004 KLR 650, > > Garage kept, never been off road, 2000 miles...the previous owner > > was > > a little old lady who only drove it to church and back on Sundays, > > you > > know - the whole works... > > But seriously, It had a lowering kit installed, and I have the > > original links, and plan to restore it to its formally higher self. > > > > It is beautiful, started right up last night at 40 degrees. > > > > The previous owner changed the oil regularly, but thats it in terms > > of > > maintenance on the bike. Now my question.... > > > > What should I look at doing for my KLR, engine wise, being that it > > hasnt had anything since the initial breaking period? I'm in > > Virgina > > and I plan to ride occasionally through the winter (on dry days.) > > > > Thanks for any info and / or links to said info! > > > > The Byrd flies on Friday! > > Byrd > <><><><><><><><><> ><><><><><><><><><> > > Byrd, > > I think if it was my bike I'd change the doohickey first thing and get > that out of the way. In your climate I'd also install a Thermo-Bob to > help with maintaining a constant engine temp for riding at temps below > about 70 degrees. > > I'd consider doing a valve clearance adjustment and also cleaning the oil > screen. > > Later, but not too much later, I'd lube the steering head and rear > suspension bearings. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > ____________________________________________________________ > Click here to compare top medical billing products, get demos, and quotes. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oiDnMNYgKVRZh6clI0c A20GfZdtJtdB3V7jaBZ9PJUfTBSs/ >

[dooden]

As always Jeff points to very good ideas. But, I might move that Swingarm Lube up the list a bit higher myself, as would I get them valve clearances checked soon also, checking them is pretty easy, swapping the shims is much more work. The Swingarms basically come dry, mine had light film of grease and was difficult to remove the long bolt when the bike was fairly new still. Now I am not worried about it since I packed the needle bearings and greased very well, rather wipe up excess grease than have a dry bearing. Bearing not being the issue, bearings are cheap, but if that bolt is corroded good luck getting it out. Believe somebody had to strip the frame and use a press few years back to get his out. Mine moved nicely with a few hammer hits and a long punch to push it out the other side. Doohickey is not that hard to do if you can handle tools, many have tools and might even let ya use them, or as with this list some might even bring them over and help. Good luck ask away and remember to keep the rubber side down ( at least when the police are around) Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Thu, 13 Nov 2008 14:57:00 -0000 "Byrd" writes: > > Okay, I'm now the proud owner of a 2004 KLR 650, > > Garage kept, never been off road, 2000 miles...the previous owner > > was > > a little old lady who only drove it to church and back on Sundays, > > you > > know - the whole works... > > But seriously, It had a lowering kit installed, and I have the > > original links, and plan to restore it to its formally higher self. > > > > It is beautiful, started right up last night at 40 degrees. > > > > The previous owner changed the oil regularly, but thats it in terms > > of > > maintenance on the bike. Now my question.... > > > > What should I look at doing for my KLR, engine wise, being that it > > hasnt had anything since the initial breaking period? I'm in > > Virgina > > and I plan to ride occasionally through the winter (on dry days.) > > > > Thanks for any info and / or links to said info! > > > > The Byrd flies on Friday! > > Byrd > <><><><><><><><><> ><><><><><><><><><> > > Byrd, > > I think if it was my bike I'd change the doohickey first thing and get > that out of the way. In your climate I'd also install a Thermo-Bob to > help with maintaining a constant engine temp for riding at temps below > about 70 degrees. > > I'd consider doing a valve clearance adjustment and also cleaning the oil > screen. > > Later, but not too much later, I'd lube the steering head and rear > suspension bearings. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > ____________________________________________________________ > Click here to compare top medical billing products, get demos, and quotes. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3oiDnMNYgKVRZh6clI0c A20GfZdtJtdB3V7jaBZ9PJUfTBSs/ >