Need to explain something. I mentioned about almost running into my garage after doing the fork work because the rear break was not primed. Well, you may have wondered what the fork work had to do with the rear break. Well, I put a new Gripster on the rear at the same time. So, if you were confused maybe this cleared it up.
rw
--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Robert Waters
wrote:
>
>
> Thanks to all who have contributed on this thread.
> I finished the job and took it for a ride. WALLA! No more rattle
in the front, much more stable, and handles SOOOO much better.
Shoulda done this a long time ago.
>
> The video was helpful, but you can skip a major step. The
speedometer does not have to be removed.
>
> The nut was pretty loose. I pulled the shaft out and inspected the
bearings. They were greased well. So, took a chisel and hammer and
tightened the nut until it felt right and put it back together. I'd
like to know how anyone can use a torque wrench on that baby? You
just has to use the SWAG method to get it right.
>
> Oh, I almost forgot. BE SURE to pump each break before doing the
test drive. I almost ran into the garage, which would have been bad
at the speed I was going. Did a double pump on the rear and then had
to use the front break, which luckily I had pumped once already.
Bearly got stopped.
>
> Robert Waters
> NW Arkansas
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