Wilsons Sandbox

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Waters" wrote:

> > > anyone, > > The thing I need right now is how to get the thing off. I have the > handlebars off and the top nut. Have loosened the 4 bolts that

hold the

> tubes at the top and have taken the top tube nuts off, which is the > preload adjuster on my bike now. I have never done this before so > please explain it so an idiot can understand. > > Thanks, > > rw

Robert, I'm not throwing stones... but... Do you own a Clymers manual? Everyone should own one. smile. Mine sits stacked with my other OEM manuals (those bound in black leather, etal.) Bretheren, I quote, (sorry, FIGURES not easily 'shown' in an email) Chapter 12 pages 249-256. pg 255 paragraphs following: 5. Adjust the steering as follows: a. Remove the handlebar as described in this chapter. b. Loosen the lower bridge pinch bolts (figure 20) c. Loosen the steering stem nut (A, Figure 7) d. Loosen or tighten the adjust nut (Figure 19) with a pin spanner wrench. e. Retighten the stem unto 39 N.m (29ft-lbs) f. Tighten the lower bridge nuts. g.. Recheck bearing play. Adjust as necessary. 6. Tighten the lower bridge pinch bolts to 25 N.p (18 ft-lbs) 7. Install the handlebar as described in this chapter. I am guessing that you REALLY want to know, "When is it tight enough." Many set the 'drag' on the front end so that when you push the wheel around unsupported, it does not just 'flop' over to one side. That is to say, it exhibits a slight drag on the front end. Contrary to what I just said, pg 255, para13 a. states: 13a. Turn the steering stem from lock to lock. the steering stem should turn smoothly and freely. If binding is felt, the steering stem is too tight. shrug. In my limited 35K smiles of KLR riding--it needs a slight drag. shrug. ANOTHER POINT I just re-learned: yikes! It plainly states that you should loosen the bottom pinch bolts, not the top one. (scratch my head at that one) My initial question asked if you owned a manual. Case in point, every bit of advice should be bounced off of what you read in the manual. Yes! There are things that the list has discovered that are 'better' than the Clymers or the the OEM manual. Oil change interval for one, dohickey and valves adjustment intervals for another.... I for one advised you should loosen the top pinch bolts. which was wrong, according to the Holy Book of Clymer. shrug. If I was doing it again tonight, I would still loosen the top ones.... Anyone else here, please feel free to correct that thinking if I am wrong about that! I actually don't see that it matters either way, as long as one of the set of pinch bolts allows the forks to move within the triple trees as the bearings are being adjusted. revmaaatin.

Larry - How many miles are on it? The only thorough way is to go in and do a visual inspection. Listening to it run won't tell you where in their lifecycle the doohickey and other important parts in balancer ecosystem (chain, sprockets, spring, bearings, etc) are. If it's a high mileage KLR, there are components that would need inspection. Just one example: the doo/adjuster could be broken off but the system is still adjusted properly--held in place by the adjuster bolt. It would sounds fine, but inherently a broken doo is bad juju. This is just one of several possibilities. The good news is we've all been there done that and EagleMike even has the replacement procedure down to a mindscrambling 23-minutes! (I can't even locate my favorite beverage in this short of time.) I wouldn't let the concern of the doo be the deciding factor. Good luck - Brian

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Lawrence Fieman wrote: > > > > KLRers, > > > > In looking at a used KLR650, how do I tell if it's too late to > install > > a doohickey -- if the damage is already done?j > > > > Thanks, > > Larry > > > Larry, > Good question! > Long story short; does it start and run without any vicious noise or > vibration? Probably, still good to go. > > Vibration; might be nice to have another KiLeRista along that has > ridden one to compare what you are looking at with one that is AOK. > > revmaaatin. >