electric starting problem

[brian barnett]

Please if anyone has some advice or knows the pros vs cons of the old vs the new it would be greatly appreciated for any feedback. Thanks [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[kl650a@verizon.net]

First off you had everyone who tried to help confused by your description of the wire. B/Y is not used as a description but appears similar to BK/Y which means Black with Yellow Stripe. This color code on the KLR is always negative or ground. The wire you are referring to is Y/BK or Yellow with Black Stripe. I am not sure exactly why this wire was added but I assume it is to sense the presence of positive voltage which should only be present when the starter is cranked. It may be that the CDI increases spark output or alters timing during cranking for easier starting. It does not supply 12 volts to the starter relay. That 12 volts comes from the starter circuit relay which you are replacing since the starter circuit relay is not supplying it due to your problem. Your neutral light stays on when you apply the voltage here because it is feeding back through the starter circuit relay. The starter circuit relay is next to the starter relay. If you are hearing the starter circuit relay click when the starter button is pushed and the starter doesn't crank but it does crank when you apply 12 volts as you described then the problem is most likely with the starter lockout switch (clutch), sidestand switch, or the starter safety switch itself. First try to bypass the sidestand switch. If this did not fix the problem I have a solution which will bypass the starter lockout switch (clutch) and the starter circuit relay. (Save the relay if it is still good it is the same part as the fan relay) Remove the starter circuit relay and connect either by splicing or with a jumper wire with spade connectors either one of the two Y/R (Yellow with Red Stripe) wires to the BK (Black) wire. In order for the neutral light to function properly you will need to unplug the connector to the starter lockout switch (clutch) at the fairing or remove any jumper wire there if it was previously bypassed that way. Your KLR should now start normally but you will not have the clutch or kickstand safety function. Walt

> I could be wrong on things and that is why I am asking but here is > what I think I know. > The B/Y wire (added sometime in the 90s) comes off of the cdi unit. > The cdi is supposed to feed 12v to it for starting. That wire goes > directly to the Starter relay. > I unplugged the B/Y wire from the cdi and all I am doing is feeding > 12v directly to the black/yellow wire which directly triggers the > relay and that works. > > So, with all the other inputs to the cdi, I don't know what is keeping > the cdi from supplying power. > > I appreciate everyones help! I have to fix this.

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