hollow klr600 axle bolt on a klr650?

[Bogdan Swider]

> Hey Russell. I got my 03 KLR last week also. I just have a question: > Are > you observing the RPM range (4k) all the time?? > When I got the bike down here (Quito - Ecuador) I was told (by the > dealer) that it was "optional" for me to attend that 4.000 RMP limit > during the first 500 miles.... is that so? >

There's are differences of opinion about break in procedures. The last " expert " I talked to was Vey de la Cruz, engine builder/rebuilder for klr guru Elden Carl. He told me that you should follow the procedure outlined by the manufacturer. He also said you should avoid prolonged cruising at a constant RPM. He thought mountain riding was perfect. Remember you're not only breaking in the rings but also the tranny as well as other moving parts of the engine. It's also important to do that first oil and filter change at 500 miles ( I believe ) to remove the metal pieces that grind off during early break in. Bogdan

[fasteddiecopeman]

I found this when I was lurking on "VERSYS" sites, prior to buying one a week ago. http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm Basically, the fellow has lots of info supporting the "RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT" method of breaking a new engine in, and I'm following that method on my new "V". Also, he has MANY other engine tips and I plan on reading them all over time. Cheers, Ed

[boulder_adv_rider]

Ed - I was skeptical myself before clicking the link. But his opinion from research/findings is very intriguing. I have a new top end coming and I'm approaching the point of no return. I'd like to follow the manual but then again coming from the parts maker themselves (Kaw in this case) and someone that believe the balancer adjuster (aka doohickey) isn't a problem, it's not so hard to "trust" someone else these days. Sounds like the guy has good practical experience, so I'm going to reconsider after reading this. Thanks. Brian

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

This sort of engine break in tips come and go over the years. He may or may not be right. It is your motor, do what you want. I would have to weigh this guys suggestions with the recommendations of virtually every vehicle manufacturer in the last, what, how many decades?? I know we are all looking for the true holy grail of engine break in. Kind of like all of all the controversy regarding oil threads. What does it all mean to 99% of us. Nothing. It just gives the pundits something to talk about. While I did not read this particular article, I have built enough drag engines to know what is out there. Sometimes you do need to speed up the process if you have a race. Keep in mind, the people using these methods usually are building racing engines, engines that frequently will never see 1000 miles (the frequent break-in intervals), and need to get an engine up to power quickly. They usually have techniques to force the engine to (grind itself together) quickly. They get the parts to mate to themselves quick, but at what cost? How much additional metal is removed in the process? What are you paying for in an engine rebuild? It is renewed factory spec clearances. Race engines are frequently built, then run on dyno for 30 minutes, and then hammered on full throttle. Race engine builders get paid by those little numbers coming from the dyno. After 30 minutes, not after 1000 miles. I would like to know how many of these guys motors are in cars for 150,000 miles with as much reliability as the average factory built motor? Personally, I think the supposed oil consumption issues are relatively isolated incidents, and a low percentage of bikes. It could be the people who prepped the bike didn't do it right, or the person who bought the bike did not do it correctly. Or it could be bad bikes. The point is, the only people you hear about are the complainers, the ones with the problems. When my bike broke in properly, did I go on this site, and scream, Whoopee, my bike broke in great?? I don't think I have ever seen a post complimenting that. Jeff A20 In a message dated 9/23/2008 1:04:15 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, boulder_adv_rider@... writes: Ed - I was skeptical myself before clicking the link. But his opinion from research/findings is very intriguing. I have a new top end coming and I'm approaching the point of no return. I'd like to follow the manual but then again coming from the parts maker themselves (Kaw in this case) and someone that believe the balancer adjuster (aka doohickey) isn't a problem, it's not so hard to "trust" someone else these days. Sounds like the guy has good practical experience, so I'm going to reconsider after reading this. Thanks. Brian **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[jokerloco9@aol.com]

In racing, they have a name for new things. It is called "trick of the week"! Jeff A20 In a message dated 9/23/2008 7:49:28 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, fasteddiecopeman@... writes: I found this when I was lurking on "VERSYS" sites, prior to buying one a week ago. _http://mototuneusa.http://mothttp://motohtt_ (http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm) Basically, the fellow has lots of info supporting the "RIDE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT" method of breaking a new engine in, and I'm following that method on my new "V". Also, he has MANY other engine tips and I plan on reading them all over time. Cheers, Ed **************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial challenges? Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and calculators. (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001) [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[fasteddiecopeman]

IF you're planning to run some sort of "axle" for the trailer hitch thru the hollow axle on the rear wheel, I think you need bearings to take the load so that the solid axle is NOT wearing the hollow axle by metal-on-metal contact (taking into account a bit of grease). Good luck. Ed