Wilsons Sandbox

Did anyone else hear that Sears bought the right to use the 1st Infantry Division patch(The Big Red One) on there sports ware clothing line? As a member of the 1st Infantry Division during Vietnam I find this troubling. I for one will not be buying anything at Sears or Kmart for awhile. Alan Henderson

Folks, as my KLR sits on the gernie awaiting Dr. Schnitz, I decided to closely examine the airbox ecosystem for intake leaks. I have an A18/2004 with 20k combat miles. I think it's important to note I'm at the extreme end of KLR use and abuse. For example, I've been through 7 rear tires, 3 sets of brakes, 2 chains, 3 foot pegs, countless oil and air filter changes (1,000 miles or less), balancer chain slack maxed... I'm rough on it as are the conditions I subject it to, so in many cases your results may/should vary (in a markedly improved way). (1) The left side drain hole was ground-off 50% and completely missing das boot (aka rubber duck bill). The cause (according to the flight data recorder) was attempts to fly early in the KLR's life (jumping). I'm 155 lbs and even with the shock dialed to firmest, the woops and launches simply bottomed the rear so hard it caused this (not uncommon) damage). Quickly you learn it's not a KX! Around 4k miles, I upgraded to the RL Progressive front/rear suspension and just recently filled this (left) drain hole with RTV silicone. (2) The right side das boot is dried-out and now puckered in the middle, so because it's not fully closed, dirt/dust is getting sucked into the pre-air filter compartment. So either I have to replace das boot (p/n 49006-1211, $3) or come up with a way to get this port to seal but remain drainable. (3) The end plug (p/n 92066-1211, $4) was missing from the rubber tube coming from the beather port (note: this port is difficult to get to/see as it's located AFTER the air cleaner but before the carb inlet (rubber) duct). This is plug (and issue) is new to me. Somewhere within the 20k miles it was relieved of its duty. And at the top of the plastic breather (p/n 14069-1051), the hose was dry-rotted and leaking. If you remove the entire system and plug one end, no air should leak when you blow into it. However, mine was dry-rotted and leaking as was my neighbor's 2006 with 2,600 miles. Looking inside the air box in the section after the air cleaner, it was a bit dirty. At the breather port, it's likely some dirt was getting in although there is a piece of foam filter hanging out of the port (obstructed but best viewed from left side of bike). In my case, some dirt appears to have gotten through this little filter. I tugged on it and it won't come out. It doesn't look serviceable or otherwise replaceable. My thought here is to clean it and put some tacky filter oil on it. Otherwise, I just assume remove this entire breather system and plug the hole with a vinyl cap over the port. All these drain holes are to assist draining in situations of flooding. However, I'm curious if any of the rides I've taken in rain, rivers, etc. would ever have introduced any water into the air box. Personally, I'd like to see the system tighter than a drum right up to the air intake port on the rear left side with manual draining capability. Of course, air does leak in the right side at the hatch for air filter service, but that could be sealed with a better gasket/seal (currently foam). So it's possible my intake system was drawing in some debris due to the plug missing and dry-rotted hose around the breather. I doubt this is what caused my intake clearances to retreat so fast in under 5k miles, but at least theoretically it might have contributed. Inside post-air cleaner compartment, I cleaned out light dirt or dust, so something has gotten by in the past. Conclusively, if you haven't checked you air box drains (3 of them), I suggest you do. Specifically, (1) inspect the two das boots (duck bills) for damage and proper closure, (2) make sure the breather hose is properly connected to its drain port on the airbox, (3) make sure the hose is not dry-rotted and leaking (if so, just snip-off the bad section and reconnect the breather), and (4) make sure you have a drain plug or seal-off the bottom end. If you're missing the drain plug like I was, just fill part of the bottom tube with RTV or something. Then if you ever need to drain the line just unplug it at the breather. Personally, this tiny [$4] plug was over-engnineered. Brian