[dsn_klr650] brake lock

[boulder_adv_rider]

I measured the balancer chain as 191.5mm (applying 10 lbs pulling force and measuring across 20 rivets (measure mid 1st pin to 21st). A new chain is 190 to 190.5 and the service limit is 193.5. Looking at the front balancer sprocket ("BALANCER-COMP,FR,LH" p/n 13164) nearly all the rubber material around the gear is gone. I suspect this. The upper most (and rear) sprocket's dampening material looks ok ("SPROCKET,BALANCER,18T" p/n 12046), the lower right sprocket appears ok ("SPROCKET-IDLER,IDLER" p/n 39133) and the crank sprocket looks ok. Everything that looks ok though could be worn. I'm going to replace the front balancer sprocket and see what it does. Replacing the chain at this point isn't required nor do I think a 1mm (maybe) shorter chain will matter. So I'll order p/n 13164 and see how it goes. --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "boulder_adv_rider" wrote:

> > Yes it's the balancer chain. Thanks for correcting me here.

Hunger

> is no excuse for hasty [read: shotty] posting...ha ha. So what do

we

> do here? > > And btw, thanks for the recommendation of Cary @ Schnitz. Having

him

> do the re-rework on the top end. Clowns that did the last job > apparently butchered it. Read more... > > I just got back from a 4k+ mile, 9-day ultra-ride including Mojave > and Death Valley. I ate through my intake clearances like

nothing.

> Towards the end my bike ran like crap (same symptoms), and I > basically limped home ending the trip early. In addition I find

out

> it burns oil at highway speed @ 75 mph here in CO circa 5,200 to > 5,700 rpm with a 15T front sprocket--roughly 1Q/1k miles. > Disappointing. > > Well, I've realized all this work needs to be done properly and my > dealer is not THE MAN. Today, when I removed the head and cylinder > to ship it to Schnitz, I found the dealer mechanic reassembled an > exhaust manifold stud in the head where a bolt is supposed to go--

the

> bolt that is inverted that bolts the cylinder to the head...clown > must have thought there was 3 studs with acorns instead of 2! > Shockingly, the stud in the head was too short so he couldn't even > get an acorn nut on it even if he realized it. So the head wasn't > properly secured nor torqued. And it all is clear now...I remember > when I got the bike back I noticed the exhaust manifold was leaking > because one of the studs was too long and the acorn nut couldn't > compress the flange because the stud was bottoming in the acorn

nut.

> I explained this problem (and others) to the service guy who told

me

> they had to replace that manifold stud with something else because > they can't get the OEM. Interestingly I find that same stud > installed improperly in the cylinder head doing absolutely nothing! > > > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > > > On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 01:55:22 -0000 "boulder_adv_rider" > > writes: > > > After 20k smiles and cracking the case, the doo has run its > course. > > > > > > The spring was attached but slack, but the upgraded lever like > new. > > > > > > Hat is off to Mike Eagle here! Anyway, I now have slack in my > > > timing > > > chain, the doo can't "do" it's job now it's reached the limit

and

> > > the > > > chain has rubbed a bit of the bottom of the case (cosmetic at > this > > > point). > > > > > > My question is what's the standard operating repair procedure > here? > > > It > > > looks like the balancer sprocket with the plastic material

around

> it > > > is > > > pretty much worn-off. So do I replace that balancer to fix > things? > > > > > > New chain? All sprockets? I'm surprised to be here with only > 20k > > > miles. Regardless, my top is back under the knife so it's a

good

> > > time > > > to have a peek at the doo and other innards. Glad I found

this.

> > > > > > I ranted about the previous top end repair earlier, but yes I'm > > > sending > > > my head and cylinder to Schnitz Racing for the love it needs. > > > Possibly > > > going 685 kit and head job with stainless valves. So I figure > it's > > > a > > > great time to find stuff (broken/worn) like this matter. TIA - > > > Brian > > <><><><><><><><><> > > <><><><><><><><><> > > > > Brian, > > > > The timing chain is usually used to mean the chain that goes to

the

> top > > of the head and turns the cams. The balancer chain is the one

that

> stays > > in the bottom end of the engine and is tensioned by the spring

and

> locked > > by the doohickey. > > > > Just wondering if you mean balancer chain is loose? > > > > Best, > > > > Jeff Saline > > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > > ____________________________________________________________ > > Make order out of chaos with a new filing cabinet. Click now! > > >

http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mgE3f4sJ3dAWWeY19qq

> cYRP7zR6aBNJR2Dmk6n0e2yXOlBS/ > > >

[boulder_adv_rider]

Ordered p/n 13164...$105. I might replace the idler sprocket with minimal damage if this doesn't dooooo the trick. Other high mileage riders might want to inspect their balancer adjuster for wear limit. Look at the bottom of the case and verify the chain isn't lashing down and strike a the case. Mine was. Despite the doohickey lever being in tact and spring attached (note my spring was totally slack/limp), the doo is useless once it's torsional limit (clockwise) is reached--my situation. The chain wasn't worn-out so the one or more sprockets are now suspect. Considering most of the dampening material on the front sprocket was darn near gone, replacing p/n 13164-1007 should get me back in the game. I'll keep the group posted.

[Jeff Saline]

On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 23:25:10 -0000 "boulder_adv_rider" writes:

> Ordered p/n 13164...$105. I might replace the idler sprocket with > minimal damage if this doesn't dooooo the trick. > > Other high mileage riders might want to inspect their balancer > adjuster > for wear limit. Look at the bottom of the case and verify the chain > > isn't lashing down and strike a the case. Mine was. Despite the > doohickey lever being in tact and spring attached (note my spring > was > totally slack/limp), the doo is useless once it's torsional limit > (clockwise) is reached--my situation. The chain wasn't worn-out so > the > one or more sprockets are now suspect. Considering most of the > dampening material on the front sprocket was darn near gone, > replacing > p/n 13164-1007 should get me back in the game. I'll keep the group > > posted.

<><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><> Brian, I'm not very experienced in the balancer chain issues but... if the spring was loose wouldn't that mean the chain could stretch and the doo wouldn't automatically tighten it when you loosened the bolt? I'm thinking that would allow the chain to eat into the case a bit. Could/can you manually tighten the chain using your fingers on the doo and see if that takes care of the slack issue? Did you examine the media of your oil filter? I check mine every time I change it and only find very small particles. I'm thinking if you can't find measurable wear in the sprocket or play in the bearings the new sprocket won't cure whatever is wrong with the balancer chain system. I had to change my EagleMike long spring for a shorter spring at about 19,000 smiles if I recall correctly. I'll probably go in this winter and replace it with a torsion spring which has been on the shelf for well over a year. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Click here for free information on nursing degrees, up to $150/hour http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3nEnkwhzkfcRXAljFendLSXe65ACh5xzFqYa05U98NaxlhHG/

[Reverend]

It's $85 from here; http://tinyurl.com/5zyq4b Can you cancel that order, or call and price-match?

> -----Original Message----- > Behalf Of boulder_adv_rider > > Ordered p/n 13164...$105. I might replace the idler sprocket with > minimal damage if this doesn't dooooo the trick.

[Ron and Brenda Moorhouse]

----- Original Message ---- From: boulder_adv_rider To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 11:33:01 AM Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Brake Lock I'd follow what Jeff suggests. Most likely it's a brake pad issue. It's possible to bump a brake pad when reistalling the wheel and fitting the rotor into the caliper between the pads and it binds in some out-of-position way. Jeffs, recommendation find/should fix this. I've bound my rear wheel when the outer pad (closetest to the piston) got lodged when hitting it with the rotor upon re-installation. Of course it seems the wheel mounts fine and all is good but once you spin it by hand or engage the rear brake you realize it's not working properly. This is why it's very important to check for "free" wheel spin and proper brake feel before taking to the trail or track! And as reminder to KLRistas.... if you change pads or otherwise compress the brake piston for more room between pads, make sure you energize the hydraulic lines before riding. As a greenhorn on my first race bike, I didn't energize the front brake to seat some new pads. I'll never forget going waaaaaay deep into a corner with spongey bob #hit my pants front brakes! I assure you coming in hot, banking low and hard left and trying to bleed speed with your rear brake only...crickey! ...it'll wig you out. Same thing relying on the KLR. If your hydraulics aren't energized and you have to suddenly stop, it could be very dangerous situation. Think of riding down your street and a child runs out in front. You need instant stopping power not a deadly delay trying to pump/energize.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogro ups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Thu, 11 Sep 2008 10:14:04 -0700 (PDT) Ron and Brenda Moorhouse > writes: > > I just put a new Kenda on my front wheel and was feeling pretty darn > > good. No pinches, seated easily, all good. Then I put it back > > on and the front brake is locked/wheel will not spin; can't get it > > to release. Thought I was careful not to let anything come out and > > did not operate the lever intentionally nor accidentally; but it > > seems mushy and nothing releases. Clueless with this kind of > > thing. Help? > > > > Ron Moorhouse > > Modesto, CA > <><><><><><> <><> > <><><><><><> <><> > > Ron, > > Maybe remove the caliper at the two mounting bolts. Slide the caliper > off the rotor and then see that the wheel spins freely. Also are you > sure the speedo drive hub seated correctly and isn't causing the problem? > > Once you are sure the wheel spins freely without the caliper installed > try installing the caliper. Make sure you are slipping it over the rotor > so one pad is on each side of the rotor. Line up the bolt holes and > install the mounting bolts. Torque on the bolts is 18 foot pounds or 216 > inch pounds. Then test it again and see if it's free. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads. org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT Thanks for the additional info. I did what Jeff suggested, plus got up the nerve to take it all apart and clean etc and put back together. Everything working fine and now I am not intimidated by the brake system, as I was prior to today. I must have done the same thing you did, as the pad was indeed, lodged in there on the piston side; out of sync with the metal clip and binding everything up. Of course, with me knowing little to nothing about brakes, I was thinking the worse and the end to my planned trip this weekend. Following the advise of you more mechanic saavy listers has helped me time and again, and I appreciate it all. Yahoo! Going riding afterall! > ____________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _________ _ > Save on airline tickets - click here. > http://thirdpartyof fers.juno. com/TGL2141/ fc/Ioyw6i3nMQluk Obd1jNil7s8cD AwsX29frltfOejhTDkj yQWETPKBG/ > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]