Page 1 of 1
throttle return not working
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 11:59 am
by terranova22
On my last ride i noticed that i have to push the throttle back to
idle, which i assume means that a return spring is not working. Does
anyone know if this situation can get worse, where i wouldn't even be
able to push the throttle back? (i know there's always the kill
switch). Also, is this a difficult or expensive repair?
thanks!
Dan (Pasadena)
A18
throttle return not working
Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2008 1:19 pm
by Jeff Saline
On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:59:12 -0000 "terranova22"
writes:
> On my last ride i noticed that i have to push the throttle back to
> idle, which i assume means that a return spring is not working.
> Does
> anyone know if this situation can get worse, where i wouldn't even
> be
> able to push the throttle back? (i know there's always the kill
> switch). Also, is this a difficult or expensive repair?
> thanks!
> Dan (Pasadena)
> A18
<><><><><><><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><><><><><><>
Dan,
I'd suppose it could get worse if the spring is broken and would get
jammed in the linkage at full throttle. : ) Or it could also be worse
if the throttle cables snapped. : )
Maybe the throttle tube is too far inboard (rubbing on the end of the
handlebar) and causing more friction than the spring can overcome. All
that will take is a #2 Phillips screwdriver and about 30 seconds to
reposition the throttle housing outboard till it's free.
Maybe take a look at the right side of the carb where the linkage is and
see if you can find the problem. The KLR throttle actuation uses two
cables. One is a pull for open and the other is a pull for close.
Your's is the first time I've heard of the close cable being needed.
When looking at the carb linkage from the right side clockwise movement
is open and counterclockwise is close. A hooked end of the spring
fastens to the linkage and a long leg fits next to the carb body. So I
suppose the leg could have snapped or the hook could have come undone.
I didn't think it would be a big deal to change a spring until I just
went to the shop and took a look at my spare carb. The carb will need to
be removed from the bike and the throttle shaft will need to be removed.
To do that the backs of the two screws holding the throttle plate to the
shaft will need to be ground down so the screws can be removed. Make
sure to mark the plate so it can be reassembled in the same orientation
as it was removed. Then the plate can be removed and the throttle shaft
slid out of the body. It'll take about 30 seconds to replace the spring
and then reassemble the throttle shaft and plate. I would use silicone
grease on the throttle shaft as a lube. Same on any o-rings if it uses
them. Use loctite on the screws to keep them in place. If you decide
you need to peen the screws make sure you support the shaft so it doesn't
get bent. To do that the slide may have to be removed. But that's a
good idea anyway since you'll have to clean the grindings from the carb
bore after cleaning up the back of the screws.
I'd guess I could do the entire job in about 75 minutes if I didn't have
to teach/show someone what I was doing.
If I was going into the carb this far I'd give it a complete cleaning
since that would only add about 15 minutes.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
____________________________________________________________
Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m7tDefMDjhaJnJlBUKOU15HxYjAffbsW8OZ6tjkhSo70yeI/
it's got to go
Posted: Tue Sep 02, 2008 12:13 pm
by grbhfng
rv4flyer,
Take it easy dude, back injuries take a long time to heal, and it will never be the same again. I know from experience.
Another KLR pilot down
--- On Tue, 9/2/08, rv4flyer wrote:
From: rv4flyer
Subject: [DSN_KLR650] It's got to go
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 7:31 AM
2004 KLR650 Red
Corbin flat seat and of course the brand new original.
Doohickey fix done,
Tools to do the hicky
Extra doohickey kit and springs. Couldn't decide which one I like
best
Set of extra tires, new
Stainless Steel braided line for front brake installed (nice
improvement)
two sets of lowering kits
Bash plate for same
Handle bar guards from Mike Van horn, darn nice. Still have brand
new factory grip guards.
Extra primary sprocket (extra tooth)
approximately 1300 miles
Wolfman's Big Tank bag with all options.
Wolfman's Expedition Rear Bag, he makes nice stuff. All new of
course.
I had plans, until the accident. Even sold the HD. I guess ATV's
will be the choice of riding now.
Since braking my back in five places while ridding my FLHTCUI to go
pick up some dog food, riding just isn't as much fun as it use to
be. Did $17,728.26 Worth of damage to it. The Harley Davidison. Me,
lots more, still paying for it.
Jeff, some day I'll set down and write you and tell you how it
happened. I hadn't forgotten your request.
$3,500 bucks. Got pictures and can take more.
Be glad to talk to anyone about it. All the factory Manuals
Tim Gibbs
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]