it's got to go

[terranova22]

On my last ride i noticed that i have to push the throttle back to idle, which i assume means that a return spring is not working. Does anyone know if this situation can get worse, where i wouldn't even be able to push the throttle back? (i know there's always the kill switch). Also, is this a difficult or expensive repair? thanks! Dan (Pasadena) A18

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 16:59:12 -0000 "terranova22" writes:

> On my last ride i noticed that i have to push the throttle back to > idle, which i assume means that a return spring is not working. > Does > anyone know if this situation can get worse, where i wouldn't even > be > able to push the throttle back? (i know there's always the kill > switch). Also, is this a difficult or expensive repair? > thanks! > Dan (Pasadena) > A18

<><><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><><> Dan, I'd suppose it could get worse if the spring is broken and would get jammed in the linkage at full throttle. : ) Or it could also be worse if the throttle cables snapped. : ) Maybe the throttle tube is too far inboard (rubbing on the end of the handlebar) and causing more friction than the spring can overcome. All that will take is a #2 Phillips screwdriver and about 30 seconds to reposition the throttle housing outboard till it's free. Maybe take a look at the right side of the carb where the linkage is and see if you can find the problem. The KLR throttle actuation uses two cables. One is a pull for open and the other is a pull for close. Your's is the first time I've heard of the close cable being needed. When looking at the carb linkage from the right side clockwise movement is open and counterclockwise is close. A hooked end of the spring fastens to the linkage and a long leg fits next to the carb body. So I suppose the leg could have snapped or the hook could have come undone. I didn't think it would be a big deal to change a spring until I just went to the shop and took a look at my spare carb. The carb will need to be removed from the bike and the throttle shaft will need to be removed. To do that the backs of the two screws holding the throttle plate to the shaft will need to be ground down so the screws can be removed. Make sure to mark the plate so it can be reassembled in the same orientation as it was removed. Then the plate can be removed and the throttle shaft slid out of the body. It'll take about 30 seconds to replace the spring and then reassemble the throttle shaft and plate. I would use silicone grease on the throttle shaft as a lube. Same on any o-rings if it uses them. Use loctite on the screws to keep them in place. If you decide you need to peen the screws make sure you support the shaft so it doesn't get bent. To do that the slide may have to be removed. But that's a good idea anyway since you'll have to clean the grindings from the carb bore after cleaning up the back of the screws. I'd guess I could do the entire job in about 75 minutes if I didn't have to teach/show someone what I was doing. If I was going into the carb this far I'd give it a complete cleaning since that would only add about 15 minutes. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Compete with the big boys. Click here to find products to benefit your business. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m7tDefMDjhaJnJlBUKOU15HxYjAffbsW8OZ6tjkhSo70yeI/

[grbhfng]

rv4flyer, Take it easy dude, back injuries take a long time to heal, and it will never be the same again. I know from experience. Another KLR pilot down

--- On Tue, 9/2/08, rv4flyer wrote: From: rv4flyer Subject: [DSN_KLR650] It's got to go To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Date: Tuesday, September 2, 2008, 7:31 AM 2004 KLR650 Red Corbin flat seat and of course the brand new original. Doohickey fix done, Tools to do the hicky Extra doohickey kit and springs. Couldn't decide which one I like best Set of extra tires, new Stainless Steel braided line for front brake installed (nice improvement) two sets of lowering kits Bash plate for same Handle bar guards from Mike Van horn, darn nice. Still have brand new factory grip guards. Extra primary sprocket (extra tooth) approximately 1300 miles Wolfman's Big Tank bag with all options. Wolfman's Expedition Rear Bag, he makes nice stuff. All new of course. I had plans, until the accident. Even sold the HD. I guess ATV's will be the choice of riding now. Since braking my back in five places while ridding my FLHTCUI to go pick up some dog food, riding just isn't as much fun as it use to be. Did $17,728.26 Worth of damage to it. The Harley Davidison. Me, lots more, still paying for it. Jeff, some day I'll set down and write you and tell you how it happened. I hadn't forgotten your request. $3,500 bucks. Got pictures and can take more. Be glad to talk to anyone about it. All the factory Manuals Tim Gibbs [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]