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klx donor bike for sale on advrider
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 11:09 am
by Thor Lancelot Simon
There's a KLX650C currently for sale on advrider's "flea market", cheap.
It looks to be in pretty rough shape but it's only $1500 and is probably
a good source of donor forks (though it's a C model not an R model -- less
travel, less adjustability, still better than either KLR fork I'd think).
Looks like it'd need an engine cover, at least, to really be rideable;
it's "got a very small crack" that leaks "a little oil". It's in
Cincinnatti. Not my bike -- just thought someone here might be looking...
--
Thor Lancelot Simon tls@...
"My guess is that the minimal training typically provided would only
have given the party in question multiple new and elaborate ways to do
something incomprehensibly stupid and dangerous." -Rich Goldstone
klx donor bike for sale on advrider
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 6:56 pm
by Tim Gornall
I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference between and C and R model?
So while I'm at it, I've been lurking on the list for a few months now. I don't have a KLR yet, but hope to soon. I have a few other bikes now, but my new interest is the KLR. Any recommendations on models, years, etc, to look for, or stay away from.
Thanks, Tim
Thor wrote:
There's a KLX650C currently for sale on advrider's "flea market", cheap.
It looks to be in pretty rough shape but it's only $1500 and is probably
a good source of donor forks (though it's a C model not an R model -- less
travel, less adjustability, still better than either KLR fork I'd think).
plastic gas tank and caps
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:13 pm
by boulder_adv_rider
Bogdan - Nice post and thanks for the heads-up on the the 1-w valve.
I too was under the impression air could escape but not fuel, but no,
air will not flow out (just tested it). Basically, it means your
tank won't vent expanding gases on hot, sunny days which is bad
juju. I can see the thing swelling like a prenant yak. Well,
providing you don't make the hose connections too tight, pressurized
air could escape via the connections once the pressure gets high
enough. Otherwise, I could see this disfiguring (permanently?) a
plastic tank.
Sounds a touch epic making your connection. I might reorder the
gasket from Acerbis and use the hose cap for high f-factor riding.
On the highway, I really appreciate the look and function of the
locking cap. Considering it's a dual-sport, you'd think Acerbis
would make the locking cap less prone to leakage when the bike is
down. I'm not talking a few eye dropper's worth here...
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Bogdan Swider wrote:
>
> I ll do my best, b_a_r. I don t have pictures and my technical
writing and
> vocabulary is sometimes wanting. I had many of the same experiences
you did;
> my tank bag is still redolent with gas fumes. The concept I came up
with is
> simple but ending up with a finished product was more work than I
> anticipated. All is built around the standard gas cap and attached
tubing
> that come with the IMS tank.
>
> First I drilled out the stem/nipple in the center of the cap that
the vent
> tubing fits around and ended up with a 3/16 ID hole through the
center of
> said gas cap. I procured a piece of metal tubing 3/16 OD about 3
1/2 in
> length. Basically I had the piece bent so that it was an upside
down U
> shaped that fit into the drilled hole in the center and then fit
around so
> it touched the outer side of the cap and then turned so the last
inch went
> horizontally, parallel with the top of the tank. At that end I had
a
> stepped metal insert about 1 long soldered to the piece of now
bent metal
> tubing. The insert went from 1/4 where it met the metal tubing to
3/16
> where it fit into a 3 piece of the rubber like vent tubing that
came with
> the tank. I adhered the bent metal piece to the hole in the cap
using Marine
> Tex, a structural epoxy. and built up this epoxy around it. At the
other end
> I put a small spring clamp over end of the 3 rubber tube over
where it
> covered the insert. I also fashioned a small bracket that fit over
the metal
> tubing where it bent next to the side of the cap and screwed and
glued it to
> the said cap. The piece of 3 rubber tubing was joined to the long
piece of
> tubing that it was cut from with a straight 3/16 plastic insert.
This was
> spring clamped at both sides. This is where I break the vent line
to unscrew
> the cap when I gas up. The long piece of tubing ended up below,
close to the
> shock as before.
>
> A word on one way valves: I used to have one in the tank vent line
and still
> do in my carb vent line. I took the tank one out when a lister
posted that
> during a hot sunny day his tank literally took on a drastically
different
> shape. Before that post I thought that the valve would allow air,
but not
> gas, to go in both directions since I could smell fumes.
>
> Bogdan, who hopes this wasn t too confusing
>
>
> On 8/21/08 11:12 AM, "boulder_adv_rider"
> wrote:
>
> >
> >
> >
> > Bogdan - Can you tells us more on the metal tube vent you
installed?
> > I've since gone to the Acerbis locking cap but even that leaks
when you
> > say horizontal for more than a second.
> >
> > My original cap that came with the IMS tank is now missing some
rubber
> > on the mushroom seal that helps prevents backflow. But instead of
> > replacing the seal from Acerbis ($4...but min order of $10), I
bought
> > the Acerbis locking cap (also bought a one-way, in-line valve in
case I
> > didn't like the locking cap).
> >
> > Normal riding condition, the new locking cap is great...no hose.
> > However, in combat I'm not happy with gas leaking from the
locking cap
> > after tipping over. So when fall-factor increases I might
revert to
> > the old cap and would install this one-way valve (purchased from
> > Fred). However, I've never been comfortable with the fit of the
hose
> > into the cap especially when it's under my tank bag. So I'm
looking
> > for ways to improve cap connection incorporating this one-way
valve.
> > Ultimately, tipping over and leaking gas is dangerous plus bad
for the
> > environment. Plus it's soaking my tank bag and the associated
fumes
> > are unacceptable.
> >
> >
> >> > I agree since that s what I did. Tank bag users be informed,
however,
> > that
> >> > the tank vents from the top of the cap, dirt bike fashion. I
> > inserted a
> >> > metal tube that turns and vents horizontally before joining
the rubber
> >> > line-not brain surgery.
> >> >
> >> > Bogdan
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
klx donor bike for sale on advrider
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:29 pm
by boulder_adv_rider
So far I prefer the pre-08s. I'd look for anything 2003 and up with
some miles and basic, requisite mods insitu. It gets you in the game
(most importantly) and might save you some cash for even more farkle
if you're on a budget. The newer model seems more city slicker
inspired vs. the no-frills work-horse we've come to love
to...ah...abuse. But if it's mostly a commuter, the 08+ might be a
more stylish choice. But if you're like many of us--rough on the
beast--the drop costs (breaking things) and maintenance are cheaper
with an oldy but goodie (abs plastic for one). And compared to a
heavier (twin) fuel guzzling KTM 990 Adventurer and the glamour
premiums for dropping it and accessorizing, the KLR is like an
awesome, lasts-a-lifetime disposable razor with more options for
farkle/attachments than a Bobcat skidsteer.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Tim Gornall wrote:
>
> I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference
between and C and R model?
>
> So while I'm at it, I've been lurking on the list for a few months
now. I don't have a KLR yet, but hope to soon. I have a few other
bikes now, but my new interest is the KLR. Any recommendations on
models, years, etc, to look for, or stay away from.
>
> Thanks, Tim
>
> Thor wrote:
> There's a KLX650C currently for sale on advrider's "flea market",
cheap.
> It looks to be in pretty rough shape but it's only $1500 and is
probably
> a good source of donor forks (though it's a C model not an R model -
- less
> travel, less adjustability, still better than either KLR fork I'd
think).
>
klx donor bike for sale on advrider
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 7:42 pm
by Michael Martin
Hi Tim,
The C model designation is explained in the KLR65) FAQ:
http://www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html
There's a lot more info I'm sure would interest you.
Enjoy!
Mike Martin,
Louisville, KY
----- Original Message ----
From: Tim Gornall
I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference between and C and R model?
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
klx donor bike for sale on advrider
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2008 9:01 pm
by Thor Lancelot Simon
On Thu, Aug 21, 2008 at 04:56:45PM -0700, Tim Gornall wrote:
>
> I'm still learning about these bikes. What is the difference between and
> C and R model?
My message was about a KL_X_ 650, not a KLR650. This was a more aggressive
performance dual-sport Kawasaki made in two models in the early 90s. The
"R" was marketed as a 650CC off-road 4-stroke (no joke) with massive
suspension travel at both ends, knobbies, not shipped with any of that
silly street-legal farkle. The "C" was street-legal from the dealership
and had similar suspension but with less travel and adjustability.
With a (not entirely cheao) adapter these bikes' upside-down front forks
(similar to the forks from the header KDX models) can be fitted to a
KLR650. Several people on this list have done it, some with the "R"
forks, some with the "C" forks. Of course people have fitted DR350
forks and all kinds of other crazy stuff, too. But the KLX is a popular
donor.
So, there's a "C" model KLX for sale cheap, I was saying. Not a "C"
model KLR, which was another thing still.