no vacuum

[traderpro2003]

Finally broke the 10.8 left side. Noticed it on general inspection. I'm always loaded down (2-up) and riding hard, so it's about time! I drilled it out with an 11/32 cobalt bit and removed it with a super-out without any damage to threads. I'm seriously considering doing the upgrade to one 10mm 10.8 grade bolt. Any cons with this mod? I have an 8mm bolt now and am tempted to simply use it. Anyone know the specs for the upgraded bolt? Fred carry it? I'd like to avoid threads at the shear points if I upgrade to 10mm. Thanks.

[Jeff Saline]

On Sun, 17 Aug 2008 00:38:26 -0000 "traderpro2003" writes:

> Finally broke the 10.8 left side. Noticed it on general inspection. > > I'm always loaded down (2-up) and riding hard, so it's about time! > I > drilled it out with an 11/32 cobalt bit and removed it with a > super-out > without any damage to threads. > > I'm seriously considering doing the upgrade to one 10mm 10.8 grade > bolt. Any cons with this mod? I have an 8mm bolt now and am > tempted > to simply use it. Anyone know the specs for the upgraded bolt? > Fred > carry it? I'd like to avoid threads at the shear points if I > upgrade > to 10mm. Thanks.

<><><><><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><><><><> Brian, The con I see is you are still using 10.8 and if you are only using one... when it breaks you don't have anything holding the top of the sub frame to the main frame. I think EagleMike sells a one bolt kit and as far as I know you can buy from him directly or at least get info on who is currently selling his products. I kind of hate to say it but that would be a good upgrade while your head is getting repaired. Hey, What's a super-out? Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT ____________________________________________________________ Lower your debt by up to 50%. Click here to find out how. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2bkXMWjeIrLInJg485QlIsyfd6V9C5QPjfTFKyOp6pN4VG/

[traderpro2003]

Ok. I'll check with Mike on the bolt. Thanks. As for the super outs, I grew sick of the rubbish screw-extractors breaking and having real/worse problems. Basically, you drill the proper hole and pound in a splined shaft then use a socket or wrench to turn left- or right-handed threads. These are rougly half a finger length. Here's a link, however note I've had mine awhile and can't remember where I got them from but the brand "Lisle" sounds right. So far these are THE BEST extractors I've ever used. Combine them with cobalt drill bits and you're rarely denied. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis62900.html

> <><><><><><><><><><><> > > Brian, > > The con I see is you are still using 10.8 and if you are only using > one... when it breaks you don't have anything holding the top of

the sub

> frame to the main frame. > > I think EagleMike sells a one bolt kit and as far as I know you can

buy

> from him directly or at least get info on who is currently selling

his

> products. > > I kind of hate to say it but that would be a good upgrade while

your head

> is getting repaired. > > Hey, What's a super-out? > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > ____________________________________________________________ > Lower your debt by up to 50%. Click here to find out how. >

http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3m2bkXMWjeIrLInJg485 QlIsyfd6V9C5QPjfTFKyOp6pN4VG/

>

[fasteddiecopeman]

The way to avoid threads at the shear point is to buy one sufficiently long to avoid it, then cut it down and 'chase' the threads. Ed

[Ed Dobson]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" wrote:

> > The way to avoid threads at the shear point is to buy one

sufficiently long to avoid it, then cut

> it down and 'chase' the threads. > Ed

Not exactly sure of the details of what you're contemplating but, high strength bolts have rolled threads and a very specific transition from the thread to the shank which minimize stress concentrations and improve fatigue strength, etc. Forming threads by any means of "cutting" will result in "lower strength" fastener. ED

[fasteddiecopeman]

When I said to 'chase' the threads, I was referring to JUST the end where you made the cut to shorten the original, so that it will thread back in! Ed

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Dobson" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "fasteddiecopeman" > wrote: > > > > The way to avoid threads at the shear point is to buy one > sufficiently long to avoid it, then cut > > it down and 'chase' the threads. > > Ed > > Not exactly sure of the details of what you're > contemplating but, high strength bolts have rolled > threads and a very specific transition from the > thread to the shank which minimize stress > concentrations and improve fatigue strength, etc. > Forming threads by any means of "cutting" will > result in "lower strength" fastener. > > ED >

[boulder_adv_rider]

I'm assuming you have plenty of gasoline in the tank and fuel is flowing freely from the petcock when you draw a vacuum on the actuator valve. Now you've established your fuel petcock is working properly and you have plenty of fuel, verify your choke cable isn't broken. A quick way is simply be somewhere quiet and quickly engage the choke lever and listen as close to the carb as possible for the enriching mechanism to hit the stop inside. You'll hear a little bump. Otherwise, you'll have to disconnect the cable from the carb and visually inspect it to verify this 100%. You can disconnect from the handlebar and pull the cable to see if it's broken but you'll still need to verify the enriching mechanism is attached to the cable via its ferrule. To remove the choke cable, it's best to remove the tank (read: almost impossible to do otherwise). On the left side towards the top you'll find a fairly large, black hex cap the the cable feed into. Using a 12mm wrench, loose this and inspect the cable and enricher mechanism. If the cable is ok, lube the entire cable as a maintenance item. Now, if the choke is working properly, this is all you need to draw plenty of fuel into the carb bowl. Turning over the engine with the choke engaged should have filled the bowl. So turn the carb drain screw (small allen wrench head) and gasoline should flow out of the drain nipple. Note you have to back-out the screw far enough for fuel to start draining. If there is no fuel in the bowl, either you're out of gas, the float is stuck in closed position preventing the bowl from filling, fuel line is clogged or otherwise the port leading to the bowl is clogged. At this point, I'd pull the carb and disassemble it for cleaning. Get some carb spray and flush each and every port/office, clean the bowl, everything. Just be careful taking it apart. Do one thing at a time and then replace it until you're comfortable with design and the correct position of things. To remove the carb, I remove the gas tank. Next I remove the top two sub-frame bolts and carefully force the sub-frame back. Next on the right hand side remove the single screw the holds the two throttle cables. After the screw is out, use the slack to help remove the cables from their seats. Next loose the fore and aft carb clamps (big black rings with phillips head screws). After these are really loose and standing on the right side, I grab the carb and work out the carb from the rear rubber boot (closest to the air box). This is where forcing the sub-frame back a touch creates some room. So I pull out the rear of the carb and simply slide the back towards me. Just be careful not to damage wiring, etc. (look above the battery area) that come tight as you're pushing back/down the sub-frame. Now hit a clean work bench and give your carb a good cleaning. Really it's not that complicated a device providing you're cautious and the lights don't go out... - Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Sullivan" wrote:

> > I was wrong there is vacuum coming from the carb. I'm not getting

fuel to

> the spark plug though. Should there be fuel coming out of the carb

drain

> with the screw removed when cranking the motor? > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

[Bass Jay]

On my previous KLR I installed an aftermarket set of blue bolts that I bought at a local tech day. My front left one broke and I ended up breaking my subframe. I decided not to change the stock ones. I just locktited them and check them on occasion I'm curious to see how this upgrade works for you. Please let us know. Good luck. -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com on behalf of traderpro2003 Sent: Sat 8/16/2008 5:38 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Sub-frame bolt sheared Finally broke the 10.8 left side. Noticed it on general inspection. I'm always loaded down (2-up) and riding hard, so it's about time! I drilled it out with an 11/32 cobalt bit and removed it with a super-out without any damage to threads. I'm seriously considering doing the upgrade to one 10mm 10.8 grade bolt. Any cons with this mod? I have an 8mm bolt now and am tempted to simply use it. Anyone know the specs for the upgraded bolt? Fred carry it? I'd like to avoid threads at the shear points if I upgrade to 10mm. Thanks.