Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:00 pm**

My left intake valve shim is currently 220 (right is 235). What happens once the clearance tightens so much that the lowest (minimum thickness) shim value of 210 is too thick? Anyone come across this? Do you have to replace the cylinder? After I had the top end reworked in Mar 2007, the local shop returned it with 260 shims in both intakes. After some re-break-in riding, I did a valve inspection/adjustment in Dec 2007. There was very little clearance. Ultimately, I adjusted the left to 240 and the right to 250 yielding .008 clearance on both. Now here I am in Aug 2008 and some 2k miles later, I just installed a 220 in the left (.005 clearance), and 235 on the right (.006 clearance). The bike would not start in full-choke without adding a touch of throttle. Now after this adjustment, the bike runs great. But what concerns me are these big drops in clearance so soon. And what do you do if/when the minimum 210 shim is too big?

Posted: **Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:29 pm**

Got a few questions for you Q1) Did they replace, re-grind, or not touch the valves? Q2) Did they replace, re-grind, or not touch the valve seats? Q3) Did they re-lap the valves if they did any work on them? Q4) How do the cam lobes and shims look, are the pitted, scratched, polished? After major work (re-grinding + lapping) it's normal for the valves to settle in a bit. Especially if they've been ground/cut and not lapped. If the smallest shim does not give you enough clearance you'll need a valve job again. Maybe new valves most likely new seats. March 2007 260 260 December 2007 240 250 Aug 2008 220 235 Darren Clark 2004 KLR-650 Fowlerville, MI traderpro2003 wrote:

> My left intake valve shim is currently 220 (right is 235). What > happens once the clearance tightens so much that the lowest (minimum > thickness) shim value of 210 is too thick? Anyone come across this? > Do you have to replace the cylinder? > > After I had the top end reworked in Mar 2007, the local shop returned > it with 260 shims in both intakes. After some re-break-in riding, I > did a valve inspection/adjustment in Dec 2007. There was very little > clearance. Ultimately, I adjusted the left to 240 and the right to 250 > yielding .008 clearance on both. > > Now here I am in Aug 2008 and some 2k miles later, I just installed a > 220 in the left (.005 clearance), and 235 on the right (.006 > clearance). The bike would not start in full-choke without adding a > touch of throttle. Now after this adjustment, the bike runs great. > But what concerns me are these big drops in clearance so soon. And > what do you do if/when the minimum 210 shim is too big? > > > ------------------------------------ > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

Posted: **Sat Aug 16, 2008 8:30 pm**

Got a few questions for you Q1) Did they replace, re-grind, or not touch the valves? Q2) Did they replace, re-grind, or not touch the valve seats? Q3) Did they re-lap the valves if they did any work on them? Q4) How do the cam lobes and shims look, are the pitted, scratched, polished? After major work (re-grinding + lapping) it's normal for the valves to settle in a bit. Especially if they've been ground/cut and not lapped. If the smallest shim does not give you enough clearance you'll need a valve job again. Maybe new valves most likely new seats. March 2007 260 260 December 2007 240 250 Aug 2008 220 235 Darren Clark 2004 KLR-650 Fowlerville, MI traderpro2003 wrote:

> My left intake valve shim is currently 220 (right is 235). What > happens once the clearance tightens so much that the lowest (minimum > thickness) shim value of 210 is too thick? Anyone come across this? > Do you have to replace the cylinder? > After I had the top end reworked in Mar 2007, the local shop returned > it with 260 shims in both intakes. After some re-break-in riding, I > did a valve inspection/adjustment in Dec 2007. There was very little > clearance. Ultimately, I adjusted the left to 240 and the right to > 250 yielding .008 clearance on both. > Now here I am in Aug 2008 and some 2k miles later, I just installed a > 220 in the left (.005 clearance), and 235 on the right (.006 > clearance). The bike would not start in full-choke without adding a > touch of throttle. Now after this adjustment, the bike runs great. > But what concerns me are these big drops in clearance so soon. And > what do you do if/when the minimum 210 shim is too big? > > ------------------------------------ > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > >

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Sat Aug 16, 2008 9:09 pm**

Darren, unfortunately I have no answers to these questions. Basically, I got out the checkbook and dropped this off at my local dealer b/c I didn't want to deal with it. I gernied the bike stripped-down ready for surgery (to save labor) but I expected they did whatever needed to be done...and done properly. I'll find/check the bill and contact the dealer on Tues. I think they replaced one valve but not sure. It was shipped from Colorado to Wisconsin to be reworked because this guy moved and was the sole source for this dealer (Colorado Powersports in Boulder). Nonetheless, 2k miles and going through shims like Power Bars is NOT what I expected for $2k give or take. I'll repost once I have all the facts. Thanks for the help/response. -Brian --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Darren Clark wrote:

> > Got a few questions for you > > Q1) Did they replace, re-grind, or not touch the valves? > > Q2) Did they replace, re-grind, or not touch the valve seats? > > Q3) Did they re-lap the valves if they did any work on them? > > Q4) How do the cam lobes and shims look, are the pitted, scratched, > polished? > > After major work (re-grinding + lapping) it's normal for the valves

to

> settle in a bit. Especially if they've been ground/cut and not

lapped.

> > If the smallest shim does not give you enough clearance you'll need

a

> valve job again. Maybe new valves most likely new seats. > > March 2007 > 260 > 260 > > December 2007 > 240 > 250 > > Aug 2008 > 220 > 235 > > > Darren Clark > 2004 KLR-650 > Fowlerville, MI > > > traderpro2003 wrote: > > My left intake valve shim is currently 220 (right is 235). What > > happens once the clearance tightens so much that the lowest

(minimum

> > thickness) shim value of 210 is too thick? Anyone come across

this?

> > Do you have to replace the cylinder? > > After I had the top end reworked in Mar 2007, the local shop

returned

> > it with 260 shims in both intakes. After some re-break-in

riding, I

> > did a valve inspection/adjustment in Dec 2007. There was very

little

> > clearance. Ultimately, I adjusted the left to 240 and the right

to

> > 250 yielding .008 clearance on both. > > Now here I am in Aug 2008 and some 2k miles later, I just

installed a

> > 220 in the left (.005 clearance), and 235 on the right (.006 > > clearance). The bike would not start in full-choke without

adding a

> > touch of throttle. Now after this adjustment, the bike runs

great.

> > But what concerns me are these big drops in clearance so soon.

And

> > what do you do if/when the minimum 210 shim is too big? > > > > ------------------------------------ > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List

FAQ

> > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

Posted: **Sun Aug 17, 2008 10:52 am**

The spec calls for roughly an 80-deg angle between the clutch release lever and the clutch cable at the point when the clutch release lever is turned clockwise and is difficult to rotate any further by hand. I measure this angle with an machinist's protractor, but anything near or slightly less than a 90-deg angle is acceptable. Start by turning the clutch release lever clockwise until it becomes difficult to turn. Then create a ray (an imaginary line...using a straight edge) by connecting the midpoints of the two pivots on the clutch release arm. Then compare the angle between this ray and the ray formed by the clutch cable itself. (If it's been awhile...remember an angle is a figure formed by two rays with a common endpoint--a vertex). Again, you're looking for 80-deg. Lastly, adjust the cable at the clutch lever to get play of 2mm-3mm. Don't forget to lube your clutch and other cables while you're at it. - Brian

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Tue, 12 Aug 2008 14:09:56 -0400 "smthng else" writes: > > Hey all, > > > > I bent the snot out of my clutch lever last weekend and replaced it > > yesterday. Unfortunately, I "unadjusted" smthng somewhere and need > > a > > clue as to the best way to fix it. > > > > If I pull the clutch lever in, the clutch engages almost > > immediately. > > Letting it out is the same... almost no clutch action at all until > > the lever is almost completely out. Is the best place to adjust > > this > > the pair of nuts on the engine casing that the cable runs through > > before attaching to the clutch pivot arm? Where in the lever > > movement > > should the clutch engage and disengage? > > > > TIA! > > > > --Jonathan "smthng" Kalmes > <><><><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><><><> > > Jonathan, > > I don't remember seeing any replies to you question so I'll give it a go. > Just as a side note... when you pull the clutch lever in your clutch > should begin disengaging. : ) But I know what you mean. : ) > > I adjust my clutch cable at the engine first and at the lever last. I > adjust the cable at the engine so the lever that comes out of the engine > and the cable are at 90 degrees. A right angle. That is when the lever > is just beginning to have contact inside the engine. Then I adjust the > lever at the bars so I have the freeplay I prefer. I'd say freeplay > should be a minimum of 3/16" but you can pretty much do whatever you want > there. > > If that doesn't take care of your issue I suppose a new cable could be > needed or maybe you have clutch issues if you rode without freeplay after > you bent the lever. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > ____________________________________________________________ > Click here to find the perfect picture with our powerful photo search features. > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/Ioyw6i3mDcGIHMAE7xgki0kBx9 inM0habKVc7zZoxSe9Wyi1KiVkM0/ >

Wilsons Sandbox

clutch cable adjust help

almost can't intake it anymore

almost can't intake it anymore

almost can't intake it anymore

almost can't intake it anymore

clutch cable adjust help