my 08 will not start

[revmaaatin]

List, I caught my bike 'passing-gas' to someone other than the carberator. That amounts to petcock adultery. It took a while to figure it out-- as it was leaving a tell-tell stain on the engine case when I wasn't looking. But I kept watching, waiting, and THERE IT WAS! Passing gas to the engine case instead of the carberator!!!! Better in my garage, than on a prairie or mountain trail. Lesson learned: keep watching! It finally got bad enough to see, and then it was actually scary-dangerous! Petcock rebuild parts enroute from Fred. Q. Are there any pitfalls that I should know before taking the petcock apart? revmaaatin.

[Ross Lindberg]

Disassembling the petcock is pretty straightforward. I tore mine apart to install the kit from Dr. Krok that eliminates the vacuum operated feature. When I pulled it apart and saw all the parts and potential failure points in the stock petcock, I was glad I switched over. Clean off a spot on the bench and as you disassemble the petcock, lay the parts out in the order and orientation that you removed them. When you run out of removable parts, clean out the petcock body with carb cleaner or a similar solvent, then install the new parts. If you get confused, just look at your neatly arrainged line-up of old parts and use that as a guide. It's pretty simple and should take you less than 10 minutes to rebuild the petcock. Ross Lindberg Fertile, MN

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > List, > I caught my bike 'passing-gas' to someone other than the carberator. > That amounts to petcock adultery. It took a while to figure it out-- > as it was leaving a tell-tell stain on the engine case when I wasn't > looking. > > But I kept watching, waiting, and THERE IT WAS! Passing gas to the > engine case instead of the carberator!!!! > > Better in my garage, than on a prairie or mountain trail. > > Lesson learned: keep watching! It finally got bad enough to see, > and then it was actually scary-dangerous! > > Petcock rebuild parts enroute from Fred. > > Q. Are there any pitfalls that I should know before taking the > petcock apart? > > > revmaaatin. >

[dooden]

Out the little hole straight at the starter area ? My local dealer had the diaphram in stock for about $12, more work taking tank off to lay on its side ( to keep gas in tank ) to change the diaphram than installing it. The Krok fix sounds good also, but I kinda like the vacuum feature, never worry about shutting gas off, can ride it right in the garage and turn key off and step in the house. Dooden A15 Green Ape (Howling Mad !! on 606/270 tires) (All pissy having to ride on pavement everywhere in Chicago area)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: > > List, > I caught my bike 'passing-gas' to someone other than the carberator. > That amounts to petcock adultery. It took a while to figure it out-- > as it was leaving a tell-tell stain on the engine case when I wasn't > looking. > > But I kept watching, waiting, and THERE IT WAS! Passing gas to the > engine case instead of the carberator!!!! > > Better in my garage, than on a prairie or mountain trail. > > Lesson learned: keep watching! It finally got bad enough to see, > and then it was actually scary-dangerous! > > Petcock rebuild parts enroute from Fred. > > Q. Are there any pitfalls that I should know before taking the > petcock apart? > > > revmaaatin. >

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote:

> > Out the little hole straight at the starter area ? > > Hi Dooden,

Fuel was weeping from between the backing plate/body. Finally figured out that the bike had to be running to find the leak. I could see the stain after riding, and would search for it. Finally, I cleaned it as well as I could, and started the bike--immediately, fuel weeping from the 'sandwich' of backing plate and petcock body. revmaaatin.

[fasteddiecopeman]

> Q. Are there any pitfalls that I should know before taking the > petcock apart?

Yup - empty the gas tank BEFORE you put the petcock onto your workbench...! Ed ;> )

[revmaaatin]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "revmaaatin" wrote: Earlier, I asked this question: > Q. Are there any pitfalls that I should know before taking the > petcock apart? I figure, if there are any pitfalls, I could find one (or more). One poster suggested, "tighten the backing screws first". It had worked for him while deep in the Rockies. OK give that a try. shrug. I was near 'reserve level of fuel" so I laid the bike over on its side (it has a 'dry' type battery, rather than a lead acid-- otherwise, there is an overflow problem). D = discovery, etc. F = Future D1. The petcock can be removed without taking off the tank--however, it may bugger up the #3 Phillips slot, or round off the nut with a std. length Craftsman wrench. D2. Tightening the petcock backing seemed like it might work as there was some slack in the screws. (It did not. see D2a.) D2a. Don't trust letting it idle in the shop after the repair. I let it idle for 3-4 minutes--fully satisfied it had stopped leaking. But to be sure, I took it for a 5 mile shakedown. And it leaked. D3. For the second attempt at removal of the petcock, I removed the tank to preclude fully stripping out the #3 Phillips slot, or rounding off the bolt heads. It was a simple, easy removal when you can get to the petcock directly. D4. Any thing with a spring in it will 'sprong' across the bench as you open up even the smallest can of worms! and it did. onto the floor, accelerating into the dark abyss. D4. There is a vent hole in the plastic 'sandwich' of the petcock that needs a proper orientation, as described on page 185, figure 58 of the Clymbers manual. The Kawi manual was less clear, or I missed it in the base manual. D4a. Ross L. suggested that keep it all oriented as you take it apart. Which I thought I had done. Nope. By the time you get the double diaphragm apart, it gets all turned around in your hands. If you use Dr. Kroc's vaccum-bypass cure, the vent orientation will not be important. D5. The rebuild kit from Arrowhead has every o-ring needed for a complete rebuild, including the one that interfaces between the gas tank and the petcock. D6. Start to finish, about 1 hour--unless you have to chase down a wayward diaphragm spring. (1 hour each attempt to repair--the first failed attempt took almost as long dorking around with the hard to reach bolts) D6a. After the 2d attempt: Let it idle in the shop for 3-4 minutes. No leak. Took it for a shakedown of 5 miles, no leak. That's good. Get it ALL back together, for a more extensive ride-- and ride into a hail storm that pummels all the rich-Dakota-patina completely off my bike. Now it no longer leaks fuel and sans dirt, grit, and patina, it looks like a fancy-smancy Left Coast city bike! F1. I am going to replace the hex head bolts with socket head bolts so that they can easily be removed without taking off the gas tank or destroying a good tool to make a 'modified' one use tool for petcock repair. I did use Teflon tape on the bolt threads where they interfaced with the tank, which is probably overkill. shrug. The bolt is completely surrounded by an 0-ring around the petcock base. It was much nicer to fix the petcock in the shed/garage, rather than experiencing a trail repair or worse: a B-B-Q of a KLR with a gas leak. Both would be a bad start/end for anybodies day. This all started with a vague stain, to a wet spot, to an active leak that came on suddenly. We have an aviation saying, "The only time you have to much fuel, is when you are on fire." I think, I was getting closer than I ever wanted to be, to having to much fuel, and the possibility of a fire. This repair was on a 98 KLR/25,000 smiles. It is either good for 10 more years of 25,000 smiles! I hope to put 5,000 of those smiles on the bike in Sept! revmaaatin.

[bodevilio]

Ok.It started out running real bad and I just made it home (5Mi's).I have a spark,good gas (Didnt have any water in it),float bowl level is correct(even with the float bowl gasket)good vac going to petcock.petcock opens when vac is applied and lets gas flow.I had the main jet out it was clear.sometimes it will try to start maybe a put or two.It's still under warranty.Any help is appreciated Thanks in advance.(Bo in N W TN)

[Russell Scott]

Rev, I didn't fix mine, and on a steep mountain trail you talk about, the angle was just right, and gas got into the air box. A fire started while still moving, and I noticed my leg getting very hot. It burned up the air box, half a side panel, my seat, one hand guard, and wiring harness. But being a KLR, we managed to get it running, and I rode it back to camp. Lesson learned the hard way. R -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of revmaaatin Sent: Saturday, August 09, 2008 8:14 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Petcock adultery List, I caught my bike 'passing-gas' to someone other than the carberator. That amounts to petcock adultery. It took a while to figure it out-- as it was leaving a tell-tell stain on the engine case when I wasn't looking. But I kept watching, waiting, and THERE IT WAS! Passing gas to the engine case instead of the carberator!!!! Better in my garage, than on a prairie or mountain trail. Lesson learned: keep watching! It finally got bad enough to see, and then it was actually scary-dangerous! Petcock rebuild parts enroute from Fred. Q. Are there any pitfalls that I should know before taking the petcock apart? revmaaatin. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]