how do i check for bent valves?

[Vick Mackey]

Unfortunately I am traveling at the moment and cannot get to a Kawasaki dealer. Finding a compression tester is likely impossible as well. I could have one sent in the postal mail, but isn't it very difficult to test the compression on a KLR 650 because of the KACR? I haven't noticed any loss in fuel economy (MPG). My bike has always burned some oil. Can someone explain in better detail how to "pull the head" and view the piston? Does this mean having to remove the engine from the bike? Or should I not worry about bent valves? I am concerned because someone started my bike and accidentally revved it to 10,000 rpms in neutral by opening the throttle too much when hitting the ignition button. This happened four thousand miles ago. I have a strange noise coming from the top of the engine when I accelerate hard, that sounds like lugging but higher pitched, like if you were quickly chopping vegetables on a table. The bike has 23,000 miles on it and is a 2007. If it has driven ok for 4,000 miles, can I just let this go and not worry about it?

On 6/23/08, Jeff Saline wrote: > > On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 04:34:18 -0700 "Vick Mackey" > writes: > > How do I check for bent valves? > > Can you please give me a brief step by step. > > Is this easy or difficult to do? > > I need to know how to access the valves, how to take them out, and > > how to > > tell if they're bent (even slightly). > > Basically I need to do this in my garage, in a low-tech way! > > > > If I replace a bent valve, do I need to start over with the valve > > adjustments (check at 500 miles, 6000 miles, 12000 miles, etc.?) > > My bike has 23,000 miles on it and I'm at the point where I seem to > > no > > longer require valve adjustments. I would hate to have to start over > > with > > all that, but if necessary I will. > > > > Thank you. > <><><><><><><><><><> > <><><><><><><><><><> > > Vick, > > The short answer is checking for a bent valve will be easier than > replacing a bent valve. It takes some special equipment for the > replacement and might for the checking. It's not the kind of thing a guy > normally does in his garage with any success. > > Pull the head and with the cams in the valve clearance checking position > you could invert the head and pour some light oil in the combustion > chamber. Check the intake and exhaust ports for oil. If you find some > you have a valve that's not sealing and could be bent. You could also > use some special measuring devices but again that's not the kind of stuff > you'd probably have in your garage. If you did have them you wouldn't be > asking the list for help. : ) If the valve is really bent you might be > able to see it during a visual inspection. > > Replacing a valve and guide is a whole other story and I won't go into it > here. I will explain I have a mill and lathe and some other equipment > and I normally wouldn't change valves in my shop. To get a valve change > correct it takes some special tools and skills. Send it to a machine > shop that does that kind of work on a regular basis. It will be well > worth the money you spend. > > Now, what makes you think you have a bent valve? > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > ____________________________________________________________ > Summer Spa Sweepstakes > Enter for your chance to WIN a Summer Spa Vacation! > > http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2141/fc/JKFkuJi7UbffbVkWCqx7tbXaS3afV0Ly85FPbIwPTAT4V4rnj5gBc8/ > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]