klr wheels change over the years?

[Baron Tynan]

Gentlemen, I need to know if I figured the difference on my valve shims correctly. I pulled out the following shims with the existing clearances: left intake - 230 at .004 clearance, right intake - 230 at .003, left exhaust - 235 at .005 and right exhaust - 235 at .005 From what I understand (I'm smart, I can handle things. It's not like what other people say! as said by curly of the three stooges) I need to leave left intake alone, pop in a 225 for the right intake and my 230's for the left and right exhausts in order to meet the high side of .004-.008 for the intake and .006-.010 for the exhaust. Is this right? And these valves would be on the tight side, right? Would my .003 reading for the right intake be small enough not to replace with the next smaller shim (225)? And please don't tell me to wait for the Julian Tech Session next Saturday 'cause I already have it all opened........ Bonsall Baron

[CA Stu]

You're better off with more clearance (more miles between valve checks). Replacing the 235's in the exhaust side with 230's will give you a clearance of .007. I'd go with the 225 in there to up it to .009. On the intake side, 220's on both sides will give you plenty of room. Those clearances seem pretty tight, how old is your bike? Also, I seem to remember 250's, 255's, etc. being more common in the stock configuration. I came up with those values using Shimcalc.eve, but I'd feel more comfortable giving pointers after seeing it with my own eyes. If you do make it to Julian, it only takes 45 minutes or less to rip the bike apart and eyeball the clearances... Cheers CA Stu --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Baron Tynan" wrote:

> > Gentlemen, > > I need to know if I figured the difference on my valve shims > correctly. I pulled out the following shims with the existing > clearances: left intake - 230 at .004 clearance, right intake - 230 > at .003, left exhaust - 235 at .005 and right exhaust - 235 at .005 > From what I understand (I'm smart, I can handle things. It's not > like what other people say! as said by curly of the three stooges)

I

> need to leave left intake alone, pop in a 225 for the right intake > and my 230's for the left and right exhausts in order to meet the > high side of .004-.008 for the intake and .006-.010 for the

exhaust.

> Is this right? And these valves would be on the tight side, right? > Would my .003 reading for the right intake be small enough not to > replace with the next smaller shim (225)? And please don't tell me > to wait for the Julian Tech Session next Saturday 'cause I already > have it all opened........ > > Bonsall Baron

[dooden]

http://www.ironjungle.com/ Hit the software link on the left and d/l ShimCalc. I think without paying for it, it will display 3 of 4. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Baron Tynan" wrote: > > Gentlemen, > > I need to know if I figured the difference on my valve shims > correctly. I pulled out the following shims with the existing > clearances: left intake - 230 at .004 clearance, right intake - 230 > at .003, left exhaust - 235 at .005 and right exhaust - 235 at .005 > From what I understand (I'm smart, I can handle things. It's not > like what other people say! as said by curly of the three stooges) I > need to leave left intake alone, pop in a 225 for the right intake > and my 230's for the left and right exhausts in order to meet the > high side of .004-.008 for the intake and .006-.010 for the exhaust. > Is this right? And these valves would be on the tight side, right? > Would my .003 reading for the right intake be small enough not to > replace with the next smaller shim (225)? And please don't tell me > to wait for the Julian Tech Session next Saturday 'cause I already > have it all opened........ > > Bonsall Baron

[Bogdan Swider]

> > > Gentlemen, > > I need to know if I figured the difference on my valve shims > correctly. I pulled out the following shims with the existing > clearances: left intake - 230 at .004 clearance, right intake - 230 > at .003, left exhaust - 235 at .005 and right exhaust - 235 at .005

I'd put 220s into the intake side and 225s into the exhaust side. That should leave you at 008 and 007, intake and 009 and 009 exhaust. Warning, no shim calc here. Just used my addled brain. Bogdan

[Michael Silverstein]

I checked my shims and the right intake was right at the narrow end of the spec at .102 mm (.004'') with a 265 shim. I wanted to bring the clearance to the wide end of the spec with a 255 but the local dealer didn't have one and I didn't feel like waiting so I'm going to button it back up. My question is: given a bike with 2100 miles on it and 'normal' riding conditions (around town, some highway, some off road), how long should I wait to recheck the clearance again? Also, I bought this bike used and don't know if the clearance was ever checked before. The left and right intake shims are 260 and 265, respectively. Are the engines always set up from the factory with the same shims on both sides, in which case different shims would indicate the bike has been serviced already, or is it normal for them to come from the factory with different shims? Thanks, Mike Kawasaki KLR650 A18 1982 Yamaha XZ500 Vision --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.802 / Virus Database: 545 - Release Date: 11/26/2004

[Doug Herr]

On Thu, 30 Dec 2004, Michael Silverstein wrote:

> I checked my shims and the right intake was right at the narrow end of > the spec at .102 mm (.004'') with a 265 shim. I wanted to bring the > clearance to the wide end of the spec with a 255 but the local dealer > didn't have one and I didn't feel like waiting so I'm going to button it > back up. > > My question is: given a bike with 2100 miles on it and 'normal' riding > conditions (around town, some highway, some off road), how long should I > wait to recheck the clearance again? > > Also, I bought this bike used and don't know if the clearance was ever > checked before. The left and right intake shims are 260 and 265, > respectively. Are the engines always set up from the factory with the > same shims on both sides, in which case different shims would indicate > the bike has been serviced already, or is it normal for them to come > from the factory with different shims?

It could come from the factory like that. I would not wait more then 1000 miles. But really, I would just order the right shims from Fred and do it right away. Don't like to see it at the tight end of the range. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Michael Silverstein]

> I would not wait more then 1000 miles. But really, I would > just order the right shims from Fred and do it right away. > Don't like to see it at the tight end of the range.

Thanks to all who replied. I ordered some shims from Arrowhead and buttoned it up for now, since it is still within spec. I'll go back inside and put in the new shims in 1K miles. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.802 / Virus Database: 545 - Release Date: 11/26/2004

[needleman_a]

Today I decided to check my valves on my A18 with 1400km I had no problems getting to them except a tight fit on the valve cover. the exahst was in the upper limits around .007 for both, but the intake was tight 'round .004-.005. Question one. Is going from .005 to .010 w/shim O.k? Or is too much? Question two. Is there any way to know If there is a starting range on shims from the factory? or am I going to have to stop halfway through to go buy shims Last question. Is there anything that I should do while I'm without tank and bodywork? Thankyou so much for being so intresting, informative and enthusiastic towards such a cool motorcycle. without this group I think I would enjoy owning mine alittle less. thanks A.

[Doug Herr]

On Fri, 3 Jun 2005, needleman_a wrote:

> Question two. Is there any way to know If there is a starting range on > shims from the factory? or am I going to have to stop halfway through > to go buy shims

This is the one I am sure of... The most common shim from the factory is 2.60, I think. But there is not a single standard shim used. You do have to pull them out and read the value printed on the bottom of them.

> Last question. Is there anything that I should do while I'm without > tank and bodywork?

Nice time to check the spark plug since you can really see in there and make sure nothing falls in when you take the plug out. -- Doug Herr doug@...

[Walter Mitty]

Going to the next smaller shim opens up the clearance about .002". While the tank is off it just takes a couple of seconds to check/replace the plug. needleman_a wrote:Today I decided to check my valves on my A18 with 1400km I had no problems getting to them except a tight fit on the valve cover. the exahst was in the upper limits around .007 for both, but the intake was tight 'round .004-.005. Question one. Is going from .005 to .010 w/shim O.k? Or is too much? Question two. Is there any way to know If there is a starting range on shims from the factory? or am I going to have to stop halfway through to go buy shims Last question. Is there anything that I should do while I'm without tank and bodywork? Thankyou so much for being so intresting, informative and enthusiastic towards such a cool motorcycle. without this group I think I would enjoy owning mine alittle less. thanks A. Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]