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new bike purchase
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 10:01 pm
by Jon Neet
I got my 2005 last Dec. for $5099.00. They didn't
charge me any freight and setup fees. They were the
only dealer in my area that didin't charge thes "bs"
fees.One place wanted about $500.00 for the fees, so
there was quite a difference.I was happy with the
price. One place I asked to lower, or delete these
fees, basically said, why should we-we sell all these
we can get at the price we set.
Jon Neet
Bonney Lake, Wa. USA
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new bike purchase
Posted: Sun Sep 04, 2005 10:33 pm
by Randy Shultz
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jon Neet wrote:
> One place I asked to lower, or delete these
> fees, basically said, why should we-we sell all these
> we can get at the price we set.
>
---
And for this reason I could not care less whether my local dealers
stay in business. I own three bikes. None of them were bought in
the city in which I live. Not that I didn't take each one to all
three dealers.
It was cheaper for me to buy my new bikes on the other end of the
frickin' country and have them shipped. How can that be? Because
they said the same thing. We don't have to sell to you. Someone
else will buy our bikes at our prices.
Likewise, I have tried to buy parts from my local dealers at least
ten times. Not once have they had a part in stock. Not once could
they get it before an online vendor could. And always they wanted
two to three times as much for the part.
And don't even get me started about their service. I now do all my
work myself. Used to pay them to mount and balance my street bike
tires. Not any more. Not after I had to listen to them talk about
the premium they charged on tires bought elsewhere. That's fine.
Now I have NO use for them at all.
I have heard there are some good dealers out there. I've never seen
one myself, but I've hard they exist. 'Course I used to believe in
Santa Claus too.
new bike purchase
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 3:14 pm
by Don Bittle
Granted, my purchase was in 2003, but I simply called every Kaw dealer
within 100 miles and told them what I wanted. I was even able to play one
against the other. Every one of them discounted from the msrp with none of
the bs setup charges. Shop around and let them know that you're serious,
with no trade in.
You should be able to buy it for 5, give or take a hundred.
don
a17
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jon Neet"
To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 04, 2005 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] RE:new bike purchase
> I got my 2005 last Dec. for $5099.00. They didn't
> charge me any freight and setup fees. They were the
> only dealer in my area that didin't charge thes "bs"
> fees.One place wanted about $500.00 for the fees, so
> there was quite a difference.I was happy with the
> price. One place I asked to lower, or delete these
> fees, basically said, why should we-we sell all these
> we can get at the price we set.
>
> Jon Neet
> Bonney Lake, Wa. USA
>
> __________________________________________________
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new bike purchase
Posted: Mon Sep 05, 2005 3:30 pm
by Kathleen Tyre
This is also my preferred method.
I am upfront and tell the first dealer that I am price shopping and ask for
his best out the door price. I get his card and write that price down.
Then I go home, get comfortable, and start making my calls.
I tell them I have a price from dealer A for $xxxx.xx and can they beat it?
I write that dealers name and quote and then call the next.
Dealer b's quote is this; can you beat it?
You will know when you have hit bottom, when they can't beat the money
price, but they will throw in a free Kawasaki Key Tag.
Kathleen
'92 Yamaha TDM
'99 Kawa KLR
-----Original Message-----
From:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On
Behalf Of Don Bittle
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 1:14 PM
To:
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com; Jon Neet
Subject: Re: [DSN_KLR650] RE:new bike purchase
Granted, my purchase was in 2003, but I simply called every Kaw dealer
within 100 miles and told them what I wanted. I was even able to play one
against the other. Every one of them discounted from the msrp with none of
the bs setup charges. Shop around and let them know that you're serious,
with no trade in.
You should be able to buy it for 5, give or take a hundred.
don
a17
--
new bike purchase
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 5:27 pm
by bodevilio
I will finally have my money to buy my bike.This post is for inseam
challenged riders who have not lowered the bike.I have ridden bikes too
tall for me and I know how to hang off one side.I have a 30" inseam,Is
this going to b a problem.I'm already commited to the bike I,ve got a
lot of roaming to do but mostly gravel or sand,the farthest offroad I
will get is a field for camping.I've posted this question before I
guess I just want to ask again,I intend to buy within 2 wks.Also does
anybody reccomend a dealer in W TN,or more important know of one to
avoid.I do all my own maintenance so to the guy who wants to know about
wheel bearings,I check mine every time I change my tire's while
balancing.if it has any problem at ALL.I change them.My present Bike is
20 yr's old garage kept and I've only changed the back at 18000
Mi's.Take the wheel slide the axle in and give it a spin, (This has to
b done with the brake calipers off I made a little stand to set it on)
It should turn
4 eva.if it stops abruptly or if u hear anything change em (Bo)Thanks
in advance
new bike purchase
Posted: Sat May 24, 2008 6:13 pm
by smthng else
I have about a 31" inseam and the '08 klr wasn't a problem for
anything other than backing up. Backing it in at that height (even on
level ground) was impossible. Otherwise, it wasn't an issue.
Unfortunately, I have to do that every day at the office, so I got fed
up with it and lowered it. I really don't notice the change at all
other than when parking. But, I also don't do much off-road riding
either... yet!
On 5/25/08, bodevilio wrote:
> I will finally have my money to buy my bike.This post is for inseam
> challenged riders who have not lowered the bike.I have ridden bikes too
> tall for me and I know how to hang off one side.I have a 30" inseam,Is
> this going to b a problem.I'm already commited to the bike I,ve got a
> lot of roaming to do but mostly gravel or sand,the farthest offroad I
> will get is a field for camping.I've posted this question before I
> guess I just want to ask again,I intend to buy within 2 wks.Also does
> anybody reccomend a dealer in W TN,or more important know of one to
> avoid.I do all my own maintenance so to the guy who wants to know about
> wheel bearings,I check mine every time I change my tire's while
> balancing.if it has any problem at ALL.I change them.My present Bike is
> 20 yr's old garage kept and I've only changed the back at 18000
> Mi's.Take the wheel slide the axle in and give it a spin, (This has to
> b done with the brake calipers off I made a little stand to set it on)
> It should turn
> 4 eva.if it stops abruptly or if u hear anything change em (Bo)Thanks
> in advance
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
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www.dualsportnews.com
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>
--
--Jonathan "smthng" Kalmes
Springfield, VA
2005 Yamaha FJR1300ABS - "Blue Bayou"
2006 Jeep Unlimited Rubicon - "Teflon"
2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 - It's here, but it hasn't earned a name yet.
http://smthng.info
"Look, the truth is, I've been trying to save the world, one person at
a time, but, I'm meant for smthng bigger. Smthng important. I know it
now."
new bike purchase
Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 8:27 am
by Bogdan Swider
>
>
>
> I will finally have my money to buy my bike.This post is for inseam
> challenged riders who have not lowered the bike.I have ridden bikes too
> tall for me and I know how to hang off one side.I have a 30" inseam,Is
> this going to b a problem.I'm already commited to the bike I,ve got a
> lot of roaming to do but mostly gravel or sand,the farthest offroad I
will get is a field for camping.
For the type of riding you describe I think you should lower the bike.
You ll like the center of gravity moving toward the other side of the globe.
Lowering links I have lower the bike about 1.5". I got mine from Quality
Engine R&D, the first outfit to make them for the klr. Type in -lowering
links klr- on Google and you'll find them and others.
However, of you don t want to mess with that: My favorite lowering devise
is cutting 2" of foam off the top of the seat and inserting a gel bladder
making sure there's a little foam on the top & bottom of the bladder. That
insulates the bladder from the sun and engine heat. If you don't do that
you'll burn your ass if you leave the bike in direct sunlight. Mine came
from a moto shop but I've heard that medical supply stores sell them too as
probably does Fred and J,C. Whitney used to. This seat has perched me
royally on many 400-600 mile days. I'm 5' 8" 150lbs and sport a small butt.
Bogdan
Good luck, Bogdan
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
new bike purchase
Posted: Sun May 25, 2008 10:16 pm
by Bryan Burke
I bought my KLR used, and the seat was not stock. The previous owner
had taken it to an upholstery shop and added an inch of foam, plus
made it wider. I'm 5'8 with a 30" inseam. At full stop with both feet
on the ground, only my toes are touching the ground. Still, I've
bottomed the bike out several times and hit a lot of rocks with the
aftermarket bash plate, so I don't want to lower it. Not only that,
but I added a sheepskin to keep the seat cool. (Arizona, summer,
black seat... Ikea $50 sheep skin is priceless!) So my seat is at
least an inch over stock height, and I'm happy with it.
When I bought the KLR I had not ridden a motorcyle in about 20 years.
Now that I have 14,000 miles on it, I'm glad I did not lower it and
I'm comfortable with the height. If the KLR is going down, sticking a
leg out won't help anyway, they're so heavy. My suggestion is ride it
at stock height for a bit, and if you really don't like it, then
lower it. But give it a chance first.
I do ride a lot of rough roads, though. Maybe I'd want it lower if I
was on asphalt, stop and go all the time.
Bryan
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "bodevilio" wrote:
>
> I will finally have my money to buy my bike.This post is for inseam
> challenged riders who have not lowered the bike.I have ridden bikes
too
> tall for me and I know how to hang off one side.I have a 30"
inseam,Is
> this going to b a problem.I'm already commited to the bike I,ve got
a
> lot of roaming to do but mostly gravel or sand,the farthest offroad
I
> will get is a field for camping.I've posted this question before I
> guess I just want to ask again,I intend to buy within 2 wks.Also
does
> anybody reccomend a dealer in W TN,or more important know of one to
> avoid.I do all my own maintenance so to the guy who wants to know
about
> wheel bearings,I check mine every time I change my tire's while
> balancing.if it has any problem at ALL.I change them.My present
Bike is
> 20 yr's old garage kept and I've only changed the back at 18000
> Mi's.Take the wheel slide the axle in and give it a spin, (This has
to
> b done with the brake calipers off I made a little stand to set it
on)
> It should turn
> 4 eva.if it stops abruptly or if u hear anything change em (Bo)
Thanks
> in advance
>
swingarm will not drop out of right side
Posted: Mon May 26, 2008 1:51 pm
by clutz003
Got it. Persistence paid off. I think that the left hand side had
dropped down too far and thus the right hand side had some "twist"
to it.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "clutz003" wrote:
>
> I am in the process of doing swingarm maint. Following
instructions
> at Marknet (have done it before with no issues). I have removed
all
> bolts etc and am at the stage where upon pulling the main mounting
> bolt the swingarm should drop down. The left hand side is free
and
> clear but the right hand side is hung up. No amount of
> pulling/pushing, jiggling tapping with rubber mallet etc has
worked.
>
> Any suggestions? Id do not want to get to aggressive with it and
mess
> something up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Craig
> A18
> San Jose CA
>