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ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)
Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:33 pm
by Michael
Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in
stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off either
Thursday or Friday.
So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael
ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)
Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2008 11:48 pm
by D Critchley
Congrats., You have the best colour for reliability, speed,
maneuverability, and invisibility to radar as far as I know. I have
heard rumours that this colour is an irresistible chick magnet too. Let
us know how you make out.
DC
Michael wrote:
>
> Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in
> stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off either
> Thursday or Friday.
>
> So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 12:03 am
by Jeff Saline
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 04:33:34 -0000 "Michael"
writes:
> Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in
> stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off
> either
> Thursday or Friday.
>
> So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael
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Michael,
Congratulations. I suggest the next stop is over at
www.klr650.net and
take a look at the 2008 section. It has threads about known problems and
issues, errors in the manuals and other stuff that is 2008 specific.
At the dealer I would suggest you have the salesman show you how to check
the oil. The bike should be vertical and the oil should be over the top
of the sight glass. Then monitor the oil level and do not accept the
dealer telling you that using a quart in 700 miles is normal. It's not
on a properly functioning engine.
Also have the dealer adjust your preload on the rear shock a few times.
That's a known weak point. Better to have them break it there than you
at home and have to take it back.
Many folks are also reporting hard starting when cold. So touch the
engine to make sure it's the same temp as the metal at the rear of the
bike (that's just a reference to see if the engine is warm or not) and
then have the dealer start the bike for you. It should start with almost
no cranking and no use of the throttle. If it's hard starting it may be
the compression release on the end of the exhaust cam shaft. I'm not
sure what the problem is but you shouldn't have to hope the bike starts
for you.
I think some folks have also had a problem with the coil wire rubbing on
the valve cover and causing a no run condition. Catch that before it
happens to you.
Look closely as the seat seams to make sure they aren't ripped yet. When
they do tear out take it back to have the seat replaced under warranty.
Be really careful of the turn signal mounts as they are breaking with a
light touch. Some guys have reported no problem getting them replaced
under warranty. Best to check them with a physical touch before you take
delivery.
That's all that pops into my head at this late hour. I think over all
it's getting some really good comments and folks are very happy with
performance and overall set up.
Oh, also get in touch with a Motorcycle Safety Foundation course schedule
and get signed up right away. The course may teach you something that
will save your life and you may also qualify for a discount on your bike
insurance. Wear all the gear all the time and absolutely always wear
gloves. When you fall off even at a slow speed you'll put your hands out
to protect your body. The gloves will protect your hands.
Oh, just before I press send... find out where the fuses are located and
have the salesman show them to you.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:25 am
by Jon Neet
Mine is a 2005 and uses zero measureable oil between changes. I change at 1000 miles in the winter, and 2000 in warmer seasons.This is due to a little bit of the milky looking deposit in the winter because my commute is only 7.5 miles each way-so the oil doesn't get up to temp.Even in the summer with 2000 mile changes, it uses no oil.My KLR is maybe the best starting motorcycle I've owned over a 45 year riding span and over twenty different bikes.In the cold it start right up and is rideable and runs well with no choke almost right away.As an aside, I just got my best gas mileage to date at last night fill-thats 62.3 miles per US gallon.Thats commuting,includes some freeway riding etc.
Enjoy your new KLR!!
Jon in Puyallup.
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)
Posted: Sun Apr 27, 2008 5:27 pm
by Jeff Saline
On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 09:25:42 -0700 (PDT) Jon Neet
writes:
> Mine is a 2005 and uses zero measureable oil between changes. I
> change at 1000 miles in the winter, and 2000 in warmer seasons.This
> is due to a little bit of the milky looking deposit in the winter
> because my commute is only 7.5 miles each way-so the oil doesn't get
> up to temp.Even in the summer with 2000 mile changes, it uses no
> oil.My KLR is maybe the best starting motorcycle I've owned over a
> 45 year riding span and over twenty different bikes.In the cold it
> start right up and is rideable and runs well with no choke almost
> right away.As an aside, I just got my best gas mileage to date at
> last night fill-thats 62.3 miles per US gallon.Thats
> commuting,includes some freeway riding etc.
>
> Enjoy your new KLR!!
> Jon in Puyallup.
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<><><><><><><><>
Jon,
I think you nailed the difference when you said you have a 2005. The
2008s are known to have a few issues with some burning lots of oil. I
seem to recall recently hearing about a dealer telling one owner a quart
in 700 miles is normal. Same thing with the cold start issues. The
earlier bikes are known to start easily when cold. The 2008s sometimes
have issues. I'm pretty confident in saying your non oil use issues are
the norm for pre 2008 KLR650s.
This morning I met a guy that has had a 2008 for about 6 months. I asked
about cold starting and oil use and he has zero issues at the 2,500 smile
point. He also doesn't have issues with the turn signals mounts breaking
(although I took a look at the design and can see how they'd snap
easily), the rear shock preload adjuster works fine he said and the seat
seams aren't tearing. He is very happy with his bike.
I think we'll be having a doohickey party at my shop in the next month or
so as another guy the meeting also wants to change his on a 2003 with
about 7,000 miles and two other guys I know both want to do theirs too.
You are getting some really nice fuel economy.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
ok... you guys talked me into it!!! :)
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 9:14 am
by Arden Kysely
Jeff's given you some good info. I'll just add that if it was my new
bike, I'd buy a new filter and a gallon of Kawi 10W-40 dino oil (so
there's no warranty questions) and change the oil after 100-200 miles.
Enjoy your new bike!
__Arden
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Michael" wrote:
>
> Today I ordered a 2008 in the Candy Lime Green (it is there last in
> stock till June no less). Will be picking up on my next day off
either
> Thursday or Friday.
>
> So, where do I start as I have not had a bike in years... Michael
>
fork oil level w/ progressive springs
Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2008 7:51 pm
by Jeff Saline
On Mon, 28 Apr 2008 23:56:48 -0000 "Stuart Martin"
writes:
> I noticed that the progressive springs are longer, thicker, and
> weigh
> ~ 0.5 lbs more than the standard springs in my A14. The manual says
> to
> fill the compressed fork to 190 mm from the top, but I was
> thinking
> that with the progressive spring, wouldn't I want to add less oil
> (i.e
> > 190 mm) since the progressive spring will displace more fluid
> volume
> than the standard spring? Any comments and/or suggestions would be
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Stu
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Stu,
I'll vote for staying with the 190mm measurement. That's based on the
design of the fork guts and set for the correct air spring. I think the
most important part is to make sure both sides are the same.
Best,
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT