Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Thu Apr 17, 2008 7:36 am**

Brian IMHO a better replacement shock than the Progressive is a Cogent Dynamics "Moab Shock" The spring weight can be selected based on your weight and riding style. http://tinyurl.com/2bg95f>http://tinyurl.com/2bg95f The Cogent Dynamics Moab shock utilizes components that are fully CNC machined from high quality billet materials. The Moab shock is built using the De Carbon damper design with a floating piston separating the gas charge from the damper fluid, ensuring consistent and fade resistant damping. A sophisticated high-flow damper piston with damping control that automatically adjusts dependent on velocity. The KLR 650 Moab shock has an easy to access damping adjustment control that allows the rider to select the shock response that best meets riding conditions. I have one of these shocks on my KLR and it works great. Doug in NC ---------- At 07:13 AM 4/17/2008, you wrote:

>progressive rear shock combo > Posted by: "hill_buster" tsucol11@... hill_buster > Date: Wed Apr 16, 2008 2:31 pm ((PDT)) > >My stock shock with an upgraded spring is leaking oil. I am presently >looking at the progressive 420 series (with 500/560 spring) as a >replacement. > >Other than price I would like to get some feedback on the above >mentioned combo ie does it require frequent repairs, do repairs take >long etc... > >Bike is used for long trips with less than 1% in serious mud. > >Thx > >Brian

---------- Doug Pippin 828-684-8488 d_pippin_89@... ---------- [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Thu Apr 17, 2008 8:40 am**

Found a loose connection at the negative battery terminal. Had to wiggle things twice, though because it was barely loose. That might explain why it worked sometimes. __Arden

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote: > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Arden Kysely" wrote: > > > > Yesterday as I left work, my KLR wouldn't start. Neutral light came > > on when I turned the key. When I pulled in the clutch and hit the > > starter button, there was a little click and the neutral light and > > headlights went out. > > > > I bypassed both the clutch and sidestand interlocks by removing the > > relay a few years ago (and since used that relay to replace a dead > > fan relay). > > > > I checked the fuse, thankfully relocated to the sidestand interlock > > cover and converted to ATO-type. It looked fine. There's a hill > > available, so I bump started it (third gear worked best) and rode > > home without issue. I turned it off, then back on, and it started OK. > > The battery showed 12.46 volts at my battery tender connection. Let > > it sit awhile, then started it again OK. > > > > This morning: same problem, less time to mess with it, and no hill. I > > left it home and rode the DR-Z in. > > > > My next step is to change out the fuse 'just in case.' Is there such > > a thing as an intermittent ATO fuse? What else can I check? Would a > > loose ground on the starter kill the neutral light and head light? > > > > I'd look for a loose connection at the battery or at the starter relay. >

Wilsons Sandbox

electrical gremlins

digest number 10407

electrical gremlins