problems physically putting battery back in back

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hobbhavnklr650
Posts: 75
Joined: Thu Apr 21, 2005 4:52 pm

radiator hose replacement

Post by hobbhavnklr650 » Thu Apr 03, 2008 10:31 pm

My driveway is almost snow free, so I'm getting the bike right for riding. This year that will include replacing the radiator hoses. Are there substitutes to what Kawasaki offers? Thanks. Keith Idaho KLR

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

radiator hose replacement

Post by Jeff Saline » Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:21 am

On Fri, 04 Apr 2008 03:31:52 -0000 "hobbhavnklr650" writes:
> My driveway is almost snow free, so I'm getting the bike right for > riding. This year that will include replacing the radiator hoses. > Are > there substitutes to what Kawasaki offers? Thanks. > > Keith > Idaho KLR
<><><><><><><> <><><><><><><> Keith, The FAQ says a Goodyear 63936 heater hose will work for the upper radiator hose. I asked on the list about two months ago to get first hand feedback and didn't receive any replies from folks that had used it. My notes show the pre 08 KLR650 upper radiator hose is 39062-1217 for about $21 from Ron Ayer dot com. I think if I was replacing my coolant system hoses I'd stay with the stock hoses. Mine are on a 2003 model and are still in good shape. Well, good shape other than I've cut the upper to allow it to fit my second radiator. : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Andrus Chesley
Posts: 573
Joined: Tue Mar 06, 2001 2:40 pm

radiator hose replacement

Post by Andrus Chesley » Sat Apr 05, 2008 6:40 am

> I think if I was replacing my coolant system hoses I'd stay with the > stock hoses. Mine are on a 2003 model and are still in good shape.
I'm in the process of a total maintenance job on my A14 650 and found the radiator hoses to be in great shape. Only about 24,000 on the bike after near 8 years of ownership. Geesh! Other things worth noteing Rear wheel bearings Good ( just replaced at 15000 miles because one felt a little ruff ). Valves are on the lower end of the clearance window but will do till the next 10K mile check. Front wheel bearings are good. Back brake pads are 50% on one side and about 70% on the other. I had replaced these about 15,000. Front brake pads are about 20% on one side and 50% on the other, Replaced these also at about 10K miles. Left fork seal good > Had replaced this about 5K miles ago Right fork seal leaking > Had replaced this about 5K miles ago. Have used a fine emory cloth on the legs this time and used the back of the emory cloth to fine polish them. See if this helps seat the seals. All cables ( clutch, Throttles, speedo, choke ) r n gud shape. Lubed them again. Do this every 5000 miles. But have a spare Clutch cable in place and taped up just in case. ;-). Bearings are good on the spare set of wheels with the Kenda 270s. Have Gripsters on the on bike set. Now should be ready for Arkansas the first weekend in May and Moah the last weekend in May. Let's hope the stars stay alined. ;-_) '43 Andy in Louisiana '00 KLR650 '06 DLK

Jeff Saline
Posts: 2246
Joined: Fri Oct 10, 2003 6:02 pm

problems physically putting battery back in back

Post by Jeff Saline » Sat Apr 05, 2008 3:30 pm

On Sat, 05 Apr 2008 19:03:23 -0000 "jonblak12321" writes:
> I had to get a new battery. I got a $34 at a local bike shop that > has the same numbers as the original. They charged it for me and I > > attempted to put it back in the bike but I forgot how it goes. > Currently I have it where the positive pole is faceing forward and > out while the negative pole is towards the inner workings of the > bike. I am having trouble putting the plastic cover over the > battery > and the drain tube is on the inside where I cannot get to it. > > Does that drain tube fit into the big black one that is towards the > > bottem of the bike where the metal piece that fits with the plastic > > piece holds the battery in. I am having troubeled describing this > so > please forgive. > > Thanks. > > PS The bike fired right up after 6 months of sitting idle with a > full thank of gas. > > Are there any issues I soul be aware of with a bike that has sat > for > so long?? > > > > JOhn Black
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> John, You've got the battery backwards. The positive post goes in first and will be to the rear side of the battery. Connect the positive cable. Then slide the black cover over the battery and fasten it at the bottom with the metal piece with a hole in it at the bottom and a phillips head screw. Then you can attach the vent hose to the battery and the heavier black hose that's probably at the bottom of the battery cover. Be careful with the hose as the plastic tabs it fits between snap off pretty easily. Finally attach the negative cable which will go to the outside post. Then, install the seat and side covers. Shouldn't be any issues with the bike. Take it easy at first as you'll be out of tune with riding. And make sure you check the brakes before you need them. : ) Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

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