exhaust bolt recall

[oldhondarider]

This just started this morning...I started my bike up and as I released the clutch, the bike dies. The kickstand is up, fuel in the tank...all systems go.. Anyone know what's going on here???

[Arden Kysely]

Sounds like a clutch or sidestand interlock problem. Here's what the FAQ has to say about that: "Starter circuit fails to work, or only works with in neutral with clutch out. Engine runs in neutral, but dies when I put it in gear. There are two known causes for this. First, the side stand switch can corrode and sieze up or get bad contacts. It is best to bypass this switch before it goes bad and leaves you stranded in the wild. To do so, simply disconnect the connector at the switch (under the small, black plastic cover), and short the harness wires together (brown and green/white) with a jumper. The second part is the clutch safety switch at the clutch lever, which tends to fall out of adjustment. To bypass, disconnect the plug from the clutch switch underneath the cover on the instrument panel. Short the black/yellow and blue/red wires on the main harness with a jumper. In both cases, the switches can be reactivated by removing the jumpers and plugging the connectors back in. It is also possible to bypass both at once by bypassing the starter safety relay: This is not the main starter relay, but an adjacent, secondary relay that is used to manage the safety circuits. Remove the relay, and connect either of the yellow/red wires to the black wire, or use the yellow/red wire from the small relay to replace the black wire on the starter relay. The starter safety relay has the same part number as the fan relay, so hang on to it; they're not cheap. There are reports that one of the safety circuit diodes still needs to be grounded for the neutral light to work properly; you can do this by bypassing the sidestand switch. It also appears that the "running safety" circuits can be bypassed by grounding the red/black wire coming from the CDI unit, but this has not been confirmed." Personal note: I've bypassed both interlocks and cast my fate to the wind when it comes to starting the bike in gear or forgetting to put up the sidestand. So far so good, though I did press the starter with the bike in gear the other day and managed to grab the clutch in time while it lurched forward that it started. And they say your reactions get slower when you get older. That's bull. The part about your memory going to hell is, uh...where was I? __Arden --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "oldhondarider" wrote:

> > This just started this morning...I started my bike up and as I

released

> the clutch, the bike dies. The kickstand is up, fuel in the

tank...all

> systems go.. > Anyone know what's going on here??? >

[Mike Frey]

That's the classic symptoms of a faulty side stand safety switch. The KLR "thinks" that the side stand is still down. There are several ways to fix it. One is disabling the switch(es) An easy temporary cure is to unplug the little black switch under your clutch lever. oldhondarider wrote:

> > This just started this morning...I started my bike up and as I released > the clutch, the bike dies. The kickstand is up, fuel in the tank...all > systems go.. > Anyone know what's going on here??? > >

[a14@att.net]

> From: Mike Frey > That's the classic symptoms of a faulty side stand safety switch. > > The KLR "thinks" that the side stand is still down. There are > several ways to fix it. One is disabling the switch(es) >

This is correct and swiftly kicking the stand up and down a few times could help until the problem is properly addressed by cleaning replacing or bypassing the offending part(s).

> An easy temporary cure is to unplug the little black switch under > your clutch lever. >

This is not correct as the connector either provides a loop back or ground so disconnecting alone will now cause it to stall when put in gear. Basicly there is one connection to the CDI that goes to a diode trio and must be grounded to have ignition. The diodes protect the CDI from positive voltage at that connection which would fry the CDI. One of three conditions must be met to provide the ground in a properly working safety system. The transmission is in Neutral. The clutch lever is pulled in. The Kick stand is up. There is also a starter circuit relay involved and even with bypassing the clutch lever or kick stand switches with jumpers if the relay fails you still have a problem. In summary the only way the bike will run and drive with the clutch switch plug simply removed is to bypass the starter circuit relay and provide a ground to one of the wires from the diode trio that goes to either the side stand switch or clutch switch. If you ground the other one without isolating it the neutral light will stay on. So what have we learned? Either fix the safety system or bypass it by unplugging the clutch lever switch and kick stand switch then remove the starter circuit relay. Do all bypass jumpers at the starter circuit relay plug so the system can easily be restored if desired by yourself or a future owner. I don't have the correct wire colors on the top of my head but at the starter circuit relay plug connect the mainly blue wire to ground and connect either one of the two of the same color wires to the remaining wire at the plug and the bypass is done. Walt

[Mike Frey]

I stand corrected! I realized my error after I sent it... that merely disconnecting the clutch switch makes the bike think the clutch lever is "out", not "in". That was a good description, Walt. a14@... wrote:

> > > From: Mike Frey > > That's the classic symptoms of a faulty side stand safety switch. > > > > The KLR "thinks" that the side stand is still down. There are > > several ways to fix it. One is disabling the switch(es) > > > > This is correct and swiftly kicking the stand up and down a few > times could help until the problem is properly addressed by > cleaning replacing or bypassing the offending part(s). > > > An easy temporary cure is to unplug the little black switch under > > your clutch lever. > > > > This is not correct as the connector either provides a loop back > or ground so disconnecting alone will now cause it to stall when > put in gear. > > Basicly there is one connection to the CDI that goes to a diode trio > and must be grounded to have ignition. The diodes protect the CDI > from positive voltage at that connection which would fry the CDI. > > One of three conditions must be met to provide the ground in a > properly working safety system. > The transmission is in Neutral. > The clutch lever is pulled in. > The Kick stand is up. > > There is also a starter circuit relay involved and even with > bypassing the clutch lever or kick stand switches with jumpers if > the relay fails you still have a problem. > > In summary the only way the bike will run and drive with the clutch > switch plug simply removed is to bypass the starter circuit relay > and provide a ground to one of the wires from the diode trio that > goes to either the side stand switch or clutch switch. If you ground > the other one without isolating it the neutral light will stay on. > > So what have we learned? Either fix the safety system or bypass it by > unplugging the clutch lever switch and kick stand switch then remove > the starter circuit relay. Do all bypass jumpers at the starter > circuit relay plug so the system can easily be restored if desired > by yourself or a future owner. > > I don't have the correct wire colors on the top of my head but at the > starter circuit relay plug connect the mainly blue wire to ground and > connect either one of the two of the same color wires to the remaining > wire at the plug and the bypass is done. > > Walt > >

[D Critchley]

Same thing exactly for me. DC grufrude wrote:

> > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com > , "albatrossklr", just looking for a > little peace, wrote: > > > > > And, since they hounded me to the point of distraction, I pulled in > > one day to the local KAW pasture and they checked it in 5 minutes > > while I picked-up a new oil filter. > > Since my local Kawi dealership is a great place and very 'old school' > I dropped the card off with them, told them I'd torqued and 'blue- > locktited' my bolts within the first week of ownership and told 'em to > collect their recall fee from Kawi . . . No more cards or calls. > >