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long term storage tips
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 3:46 pm
by klr6502k
my faithful KLR is goin in for some long term storage while i do other
things. not sure how long the bike will be "packed away for" so i am
draining the engine oil and putting fresh stuff in.
filling it to the top of the valve cover by pulling one of the bolts
and just filling it all the way up.
putting the cylinder at bottom dead center and filling it up with
tranny fluid.
draining the radiator and filling it with pure antifreeze
pulling the carb and thinking of putting it in a jar of synthetic oil
filling the gas tank to FULL with some gas additive.
deflating the tires and blocking them up off the ground
pulling the battery
spraying down all the metal surfaces with a anti rust oil lube..
(still have to find one i like more than "flim fluid")
anything im missing? or forgot?
klr6502k
long term storage tips
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 4:18 pm
by Michael Nelson
On Thu, Mar 27, 2008 at 08:46:06PM -0000, klr6502k wrote:
> filling it to the top of the valve cover by pulling one of the bolts
> and just filling it all the way up.
That's nuts.
> putting the cylinder at bottom dead center and filling it up with
> tranny fluid.
So's that.
> draining the radiator and filling it with pure antifreeze
So's that. Just put in 50:50 mix.
> pulling the carb and thinking of putting it in a jar of synthetic oil
Nuts. Just drain the float bowl.
> filling the gas tank to FULL with some gas additive.
First sensible thing you've mentioned.
> deflating the tires and blocking them up off the ground
Good. But if you store it anywhere near an ozone source you'll need new
tires anyway if you store it long enough.
> pulling the battery
Good. Put it somewhere off the ground and on a Battery Tender.
> spraying down all the metal surfaces with a anti rust oil lube..
> (still have to find one i like more than "flim fluid")
Good.
--
"Tragedy is when I cut my finger. Comedy is when you fall into an open
manhole and die." -- Mel Brooks
San Francisco, CA
long term storage tips
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:07 pm
by Jeff Saline
On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 20:46:06 -0000 "klr6502k" writes:
> my faithful KLR is goin in for some long term storage while i do
> other
> things. not sure how long the bike will be "packed away for" so i
> am
>
> draining the engine oil and putting fresh stuff in.
> filling it to the top of the valve cover by pulling one of the
> bolts
> and just filling it all the way up.
>
> putting the cylinder at bottom dead center and filling it up with
> tranny fluid.
> draining the radiator and filling it with pure antifreeze
> pulling the carb and thinking of putting it in a jar of synthetic
> oil
> filling the gas tank to FULL with some gas additive.
> deflating the tires and blocking them up off the ground
>
> pulling the battery
>
> spraying down all the metal surfaces with a anti rust oil lube..
> (still have to find one i like more than "flim fluid")
>
>
> anything im missing? or forgot?
>
> klr6502k
<><><><><><><><><>
<><><><><><><><><>
klr6502k,
You don't say what kind of storage area the bike will be in or what long
term means to you. That makes it a bit more difficult to make
appropriate suggestions. I would use different procedures to prepare a
bike for 6 months versus 5 years and the same with inside climate
controlled versus outside or in a shed. Lots of temperature changes
would require different storage techniques too.
I'll second Michael's suggestion that some of your planned methods are a
bit much. : ) I was the guy responsible for a bundle of vehicles and
equipment in long and short term storage in the Pacific theater for war
time use. I know once I left that command they continued to make
progress in storage methods but I'll briefly share a bit of how I'd do it
knowing what little I know/remember.
Keep the bike out of the weather and out of rapid temperature changes. I
think that's probably the most important part. Temperature changes of
50-70 degrees are ok if they happen over a long time. Very gradual
changes won't cause moisture to condense. Rapid changes like the sun
shinning on the bike in the morning when it's cold can change the
temperature 10 degrees in less than an hour. That's not good.
Don't let it sit in stagnant humid air. Provide ventilation so moisture
doesn't accumulate around/on it.
Document what you've done to store the bike and put the documentation
with the bike so it's easy to know what to undo when you're ready to use
it again. If you'll need any parts when you return it to service buy
them now and store them with the bike.
To prep the bike I'd take it on it's last ride and wash it well. Then
ride some more to make sure it gets dry and up to operating temperature.
As soon as you get to the shop drain the oil and change the filter. If
it will be stored for more than 12 months drain the fuel from the tank
and carb. If less than 12 months use Seafoam in the fuel in the tank and
make sure you have fresh fuel. Only use Seafoam as directed. More is
not better. It's not worse either but it will hurt your wallet. Only
add the correct amount of oil. Do not overfill. If you want run the
engine for a minute or two to let the new oil circulate. Don't run it
very long. Drain the fuel from the carb again. : ) Check all the
lights and horn for proper operation. Remove the battery and if it's in
pretty good shape put it on a battery tender type charger. Or sell/give
to someone who will use it. Write down the battery size, part numbers
etc so you know what to buy when you put the bike back into service. If
you can get a dry charged battery and the correct amount of acid buy it
now and store the new battery with the bike. That will save you lots of
hassle when you put the bike back into service. Service the air filter.
Clean around the spark plug and use compressed air to blow away any
debris. Remove the spark plug and fog the cylinder with fogging oil.
You can probably find it at a boat place or auto parts store. Reinstall
the spark plug with a new crush gasket. A new plug could be fine now
too. Make sure it's gapped correctly. Clean and lube the chain. New
coolant would be fine. Use the mixture you'll use when you start the
bike again. I'd air the tires to max sidewall pressure. If you have a
center stand use it. Remove the mirrors and store them with the bike.
Tie a key to the handle bars. If you have paperwork for the bike put it
in a zip lock bag and keep it with the bike too. Wax the metal parts.
Maybe put a dressing on the seat and rubber parts including the fork
gaiters. Buy a cover that will keep dirt and dust off the bike but not
trap moisture. I've got my covers at Walmart in the auto section for
about $20. Put the cover on the bike and walk away from it.
I currently have a brand new Harley MT-500 that I've never started stored
since 2001 using this method. That is half the bike the KLR is at twice
the price. But in 23 more years it will still be half the bike the KLR
is at hopefully 6-8 times the price of the KLR. : )
Best of luck with your other things. Stay safe.
Jeff Saline
ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal
Airheads Beemer Club
www.airheads.org
The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota
75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT
long term storage tips
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:40 pm
by traderpro2003
You're not Elliot Spitzer are you? 5 to 10 in the pokie?? j/k
Follow the user's manual and Jeff's tips. Minimum would be: Fresh
oil and filter, full tank with stabilizer or completely dry and
coated liberally with WD-40, drain the carbs no matter what, spray
all metal components with WD-40, get the weight off the
tires/suspension (no need to deflate), and remove the battery (store
it properly). And don't forget to lock it up and keep it somewhere
the mice won't get it and teenagers won't have sex on it! Hey, I'm
just say'in...
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "klr6502k" wrote:
>
> my faithful KLR is goin in for some long term storage while i do
other
> things. not sure how long the bike will be "packed away for" so i am
>
> draining the engine oil and putting fresh stuff in.
> filling it to the top of the valve cover by pulling one of the bolts
> and just filling it all the way up.
>
> putting the cylinder at bottom dead center and filling it up with
> tranny fluid.
> draining the radiator and filling it with pure antifreeze
> pulling the carb and thinking of putting it in a jar of synthetic
oil
> filling the gas tank to FULL with some gas additive.
> deflating the tires and blocking them up off the ground
>
> pulling the battery
>
> spraying down all the metal surfaces with a anti rust oil lube..
> (still have to find one i like more than "flim fluid")
>
>
> anything im missing? or forgot?
>
> klr6502k
>
tubed vs. tubeless tires
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 3:30 pm
by revmaaatin
Inter-memo reply/answered:
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Jud Jones" wrote:
>
> I have had a few rear flats on the road. There really is not too
much drama to it. The bike
> feels loose, the rear end weaves a little, and you realize you have
a problem. Back off the
> gas slowly, stay off the brakes, and decelerate gradually. The
tricky part comes as you
> slow from about 30 to 5 mph or so as the sidewall collapses and the
bike really wants to
> wiggle around. I don't want to say a flat can't put you on the
ground, but it has never
> happened to me.
Thanks Judd, that was helpful. I still like my idea: schedule your
flats in the garage. smile. Usually 'spoils' the intial thoughts of
riding that day....
> I once had a tire (Continental k111) go flat while I was in a
restaurant near Hungry Horse.
> It was a dark rainy night and i was about 15 miles from my motel.
My wife got on my
> buddy's bike, and I rode my/5 back to the motel where I could have
some light, and
> change the tube indoors. This was on a virtually empty 2-lane, with
no traffic and no stop
> signs. The bike was wiggly getting up to speed and slowing down
again, but at about 50, it
> felt almost normal. The cause of the flat was instructive as well:
Thinking myself clever, I
> had used a strip of duct tape as a rim band, and the edge of the
tape fretted through the
> tube. No more duct tape rim strips for me. I have since ridden
shorter distances on flat
> rears. i would think it would work even better on a stiff tire like
a D606 or a Terrorflex.
You were able to ride 15 miles on a flat? Wow. You thoughts on
electrical tape are good. I had been tempted to short cut a bad
liner once, using tape, and now I am glad I have not.
BuYing a used XR100 taught me a lesson about tires/tubes/liners--have
a spare tube and liner for every size of bike wheel in the garage. I
stripped the tire to replace some broken spokes and the tube had more
than 9 patches, and the liner was pitiful. Since the temp was only
+10, and I was working in an unheated garage, and the new stuff was
over 50 miles away, I put it back together. 3 years later, same
tube, same liner, but I got the spares handy. They will go South
soon, I suspect. If I really learned a lesson--I should go and
change them all today. naw.
>
> A front flat at speed would probably not be much fun.
I have only experienced those at
> low speeds or off-road. One was a tubeless Gripster on a Lester mag
(no bed retention
> shoulder). There was no apparent reason for the flat, but I was up
at Black Horse, on the
> Stand Rock rez. My advisor had told me to carry some sage or sweet
grass in my medicine
> bag, but I pooh-poohed the whole medicine bag idea, as it's alien
to my Welsh cultural
> traditions.
Now that is funny! An 'islander' that did not come with built in
superstition! just kidding.
So I think it was just some impish juju from the local pantheities
that deflated
> my tire. I tipped my cap their way, and was able to reinflate the
tire with the old hand
> pump that used to come with every BMW.
>
> I usually ride in a tank-top, baggy shorts and flip-flops,
Thankgoodness, it is not in a thong. cough. You have seen the
internet photo of Jamacia babe-pillion in flipflops and a thong.
cough. sensory overload at its best.
but if I think I'm going to have a
> flat, I wear $800 aerostich gear, a $400 full-face helmet, $250
boots and $17 elkskin
> gloves. If my riding gear cost more than my bike, I figure I will
be afraid to scuff it up and
> will ride accordingly.
>
Hmm, I like the sound of those gloves. smile.
Thanks for the reply.
revmaaatin.