Wilsons Sandbox

I'm sure you'll get more technical answers, but with the bike on the sidestand, if you can push the middle of the chain in the lower run up to just meet the swingarm it's tensioned correctly. Your chain will look loose as the bike sits there, but once you sit on it and compress the suspension, it will tighten up. The chain has to have enough slack to not become guitar-string tight when the rear suspension compresses completely. __Arden --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Bob Monahan" wrote:

> > > I have the manual but I've found that I get better advice on this

list

> than anywhere. > > I suspect it's time to adjust my chain for the first time since I

bought

> my '07 KLR 650. > > Any tips and tricks would be appreciated. > > I need to know how to check it for tension and how much tension to > adjust for also... > > TIA, > > $bob$ > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] >

On Fri, 21 Mar 2008 13:27:20 -0000 "Bob Monahan" writes:

> > I have the manual but I've found that I get better advice on this > list > than anywhere. > > I suspect it's time to adjust my chain for the first time since I > bought > my '07 KLR 650. > > Any tips and tricks would be appreciated. > > I need to know how to check it for tension and how much tension to > adjust for also... > > TIA, > > $bob$

<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> $bob$, I wrote the post below on 8 May 2006 when a lister asked how to change a front sprocket. It covers most of what you'll find helpful in your first chain adjustment. But to add just a tad to the below post. I like my chain adjusted so when the bike is on the center stand I can gently lift the bottom run of chain with one finger just below where there is a black rubber/plastic piece that is part of the chain slider on the swing arm. When the bottom run of chain just touches the bottom of the swing arm I want the top run of chain to just be lifting off the swing arm. That's what works for me. If you use a bit of geometry you can figure out what works pretty well. Compress your rear suspension until the counter shaft, swing arm pivot and rear axle are all in a line. That is the tightest the chain will ever get. Make sure you have 1/2" or so of slack in the chain when the suspension is in that orientation. I can just grab the swing arm when laying over the rear of the bike. With my chest/gut on the rear rack I'll pull on the swing arm until the observer tells me the points referenced above are in line. Using a yard stick is a good way to check the alignment. Then they quickly check the chain tension. It's easier if the preload on the rear shock is at 1 but you can do it this way on 5 too. It's just a bit harder pull. The method I really like is the one Steve and I have used quite a bit of checking the tension while riding. It's at the end of the post below. I've had folks tell me my chain is too loose but they can't explain to me how to properly check it for correct tension. They want me to adjust it to a tighter tolerance when the suspension is at rest. I feel lucky I can think for myself and keep my chain adjusted correctly. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT <><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Partial post from 8 May 2006 SNIP ...here's how I remove my front sprocket. I think this is good on bikes from maybe 1997 and newer. I think the earlier bikes use a different fastening system on the sprocket. First, know there is an inside and an outside to the front sprocket. I don't remember which is which so I just pay attention to how the old one comes off and install the next one in the same orientation. Someone here can probably tell you thicker shoulder in (what I think it is) but I'm not sure without looking. On the stock countershaft sprocket there is a flat washer that gets one side bent against the nut to act as a lock. I'd take a cold chisel and move it away from the nut a bit. Oh, remove the countershaft sprocket cover first. It's one bolt on the top and two on the bottom. The cover is plastic like so don't treat it too roughly. Anyway, then flatten the locking washer so you can get a socket on the nut. Then I like to get on the right side of the bike and lean over the seat so I'm looking at the sprocket. I use "Big Mikey" my 1/2" drive long breaker bar with the correct socket. Someone else can remind me what size it is. Maybe 30mm??? I'll put the engine in gear and then step on the rear brake pedal with one foot. I'll pull the breaker bar towards me to loosen the nut. Once it's loose the rest can be done from the left side of the bike until you need to tighten the nut when completing installation. When the nut is loose I'll loosen the chain. I am very careful to make sure I turn each adjusting nut the exact same amount of turns. That keeps the wheel aligned and makes it easy to keep it aligned when adjusting the chain. I absolutely never ever, EVER turn the nuts different amounts once the wheel is aligned to my satisfaction. When loose I tighten the lock nuts against the adjusting nuts just to make sure they don't move. I also have punch marks on the nuts to help me keep track of how much I've turned them. The punch marks were installed after the first time I aligned the wheel and was sure I had it correct. Anyway, I'll loosen the adjusting nuts about 9 turns. Also loosen the rear axle so it's free. Then I kick the rear tire forward to put slack into the chain. I can then remove the front sprocket and paying attention to which side goes where I install a different sprocket. This is a fine time to inspect the seal area, splines on the countershaft and maybe clean some gunk from this area. I'll tighten the nut as best as I can and then adjust the chain to where I like it. I tighten the rear axle enough that the wheel will move but it stays in place when I move it. I use the adjusting nuts to pull the wheel rearward and tighten the chain. Again, I always, every time, without fail, turn both adjusting nuts the exact same amount. Every time!!! I don't come close, I get it exact. Every time! Then I tighten the axle and double check to make sure the wheel didn't move allowing the adjusters plates to get loose. Those are what I call the plates at the back of the swing arm that the adjuster nuts touch. If they are loose I do it again until I get it correct. I tighten the sprocket nut with Big Mikey using my foot on the rear brake and again pulling on Mikey. I use what many folks here call Jake's Nut. Dave Jakeman sold them and they eliminate the flat locking type washer used with the stock system. I think Eagle Mike started making them and I'm guessing Fred has them available now. If using the stock system bend the lock washer against one nut flat. You figure out how to do it as I haven't done it in so long I don't remember what works. I replace the sprocket cover and make sure the wires are well protected. Yes I know it's close with a 16 tooth sprocket but a bit of care now and I doubt you'll have any problems. I don't over tighten the cover bolts as the cover is made of a plastic like material. I'll check the chain tension and if Steve and I are riding together we'll check each other's chains while on the road. We've done it enough times we don't have to talk but can quickly use hand signals to request a quick visual inspection. What we like is to have the bike under a slight acceleration. The "inspector" rides on the left and looks at the chain. The chain when properly adjusted should make a slight wave. Big rolling waves mean it's too loose. If the chain is vibrating, it's too tight. And that's how I'd change a front sprocket. Probably takes 15-25 minutes depending on conditions. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT