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lowering
Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 10:45 am
by Doug Herr
On Fri, 8 Aug 2003, jrgtenna wrote:
> Help.
> I need to lower my 03 KLR an inch or two in order to reach the
> ground and would appreciate any information anyone might have...do I
> need to lower both the front and back?? specific makes of lowering
> kits etc
> Thanks in advance
If you know for sure just how much you want to lower it then the
regular kits are fine, but if you want the ability to try
different lowering levels then you should check out:
http://www.scootworks.com/
They have a 3 position kit.
It is advised that you lower the front an equal amount to
preserve the original geometry of the bike.
Note that if you lower it more then 1 inch you are likely to also
need to shorten your kick stand.
--
Doug Herr
doug@...
lowering
Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 10:55 am
by Rick
Have you thought about just getting a dished Corbin seat?
Rick
> Help.
> I need to lower my 03 KLR an inch or two in order to reach the
> ground and would appreciate any information anyone might have...do
I
> need to lower both the front and back?? specific makes of lowering
> kits etc
> Thanks in advance
> Jim
lowering
Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 12:03 pm
by D Critchley
Since I am altitudinally challenged, (5'7"), I got the Dual star Lowering Links,
which gave me a 1.5" drop. Now I can put both feet on the deck with no problem.
By the way, you don't have to be an engineer to install them, either.
There are other brands and sizes available.
DC
lowering
Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 1:59 pm
by pete88chester
Jim: First try just lowering just the front end, no cost & just a
little work. What you do is slide the forks up in the triple clamps,
which brings the front frame down a little. I slid mine up one inch
& it had no adverse effects on handling, matter of fact it seemed to
handle better. It made it so I could get my feet down on the ground
more securely when stopped. It may not be enough for you it, it
depends on your height. I am 5' 9" & have about a 30" inseam. To do
it you need to first support the bike on a box or stand so the front
wheel is off the ground. It is easiest to take the wheel off & do
each fork individually, but it can be done with the wheel in place.
Loosen the lower triple clamp fork bolts first & then loosen the
upper triple clamp fork bolts while holding the fork so it doesn't
slid down. After getting it to the desired height tighten the upper
clamp bolts first just enough to hold the fork, then tighten all the
clamp bolts to the correct torque. When setting the height measure
from the top of the fork cap to the top of the upper triple clamp.
Add 1/8 inch for the cap, so for 1 inch lowering you would want a 1
1/8 inch measurement. Some people say you can go as far as 1 1/2
inch. Just make sure you do not go so low that the tire contacts the
fender under full front fork compression, which could cause a crash.
Give it a try it may be all you need. Also this procedure didn't
require the side stand to be shortened. Pete Chester A16
lowering
Posted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 3:19 pm
by xs650@dejazzd.com
Pete,
My A7 was set about 1-1/2" low in the front when I got it. When replacing the fork boots I set the forks to the "normal" position. My feeling is much like yours, the bike handled better with the front end lowered.
Eric in Pa
>
> From: "pete88chester"
> Date: 2003/08/08 Fri PM 02:59:49 EDT
> To:
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: Lowering
>
> Jim: First try just lowering just the front end, no cost & just a
> little work. What you do is slide the forks up in the triple clamps,
> which brings the front frame down a little. I slid mine up one inch
> & it had no adverse effects on handling, matter of fact it seemed to
> handle better.
lowering
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 8:04 am
by dickersonb16
HOW IS THE RIDE AFTER A 2 INCH LOWERING KIT? OR SHOULD I TIPPY TOE
lowering
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 8:33 am
by David Farrell
I can't answer on how the ride is. I was just going
to let you or anybody else on the list know if they
are interested, I have a lowering kit available. it
is a set of lowering links and a shorter kickstand to
match that came with my used KLR650 when I bought it.
I think the entire kit lowers the bike 1.5 inches. I
think it is new. I have never looked up to see what
these are worth but if you are interested let me know.
--- dickersonb16 wrote:
> HOW IS THE RIDE AFTER A 2 INCH LOWERING KIT? OR
> SHOULD I TIPPY TOE
>
>
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lowering
Posted: Sat Feb 16, 2008 8:38 pm
by revmaaatin
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "dickersonb16"
wrote:
>
> HOW IS THE RIDE AFTER A 2 INCH LOWERING KIT? OR SHOULD I TIPPY TOE
>
Smile.
The 'ride' will be the same--it is the effect that the bumps will have
that will change significantly. You have subtracted/abandoned ~1/3 of
the compressibility/range of the KLR rear suspension, and you will know
about it very soon if you ride the bike off road with any degree of
vigor. My bike is 'stock' height with a 450# heavier rear-spring, and
I still manage to occasionally get full compression of the suspension,
cough, when riding to the next impact zone.
Others have used the Corbin dipped/shorter seat to achieve a similar
result without messing with the suspension. Reading the list wisdom, I
know the dipped seat creates a different set of +/- factors, of which I
have no experience. Another little trick is to slide the forks up in
the triple trees 2" as well.
Others may comment on the engineering/dynamics of the shorter
suspension. One thing for sure, if you are uncomfortable with the seat
height, the bike will not be much fun to ride, and perhaps, even
dangerous. shrug. Some have suggested, lowering until you have the
dynamics of the bike figured out, then switching back to the stock
height; back at the stock height, sliding the butt off the seat to one
side when you need to fully stop works well for many.
One word of caution, DO NOT allow the bike to fall on your leg/foot at
the stop light/gas station/trail tip over, as the forces are sufficient
to break bones, as attested and proven by others on the list. When it
is going to fall, get away from it before it falls on you. cough. That
also includes when going over the handlebars, let go (said that last
part for myself....) sigh.
Not that I always ride/listen/do as well as I 'talk'.
Yeah, some of you resemble that remark as well. smile.
revmaaatin.
lowering
Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:09 pm
by E.L. Green
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "dickersonb16"
wrote:
> HOW IS THE RIDE AFTER A 2 INCH LOWERING KIT? OR SHOULD I TIPPY TOE
Softer, because you've changed the mechanical advantage on the rear
shock with a longer lever. This is okay for the street, but if you go
offroad you *will* slam your back tire into your rear fender and leave
your license plate and inner fender on the trail behind you. If you
intend to ride off-road at any point in time, probably the max you
should lower the bike is 1" and add a stiffer rear spring. You'll
still clearance the rear fender slightly (and need to relocate the
license plate higher) but at least you won't just rip the thing off
entirely.
lowering
Posted: Mon Mar 03, 2008 5:29 pm
by Jacobus De Bruyn
After I put in the one inch lowering links, the
sidestand was just as always, and the ground clearance
too. In my way of figuring things out, the only
things which changes after installing lowering links
is the distance between the top of the bike and the
swing arm, so the seat and the fender are closer to
the ground, not the ground clearance, because the
diameter of the wheels stays the same.
Now, I am an idiot, so people like Fred and Mike and
Greg should pipe in and set things right.
Also I had an issue with the bike bottoming out, so
just one hour ago I put the stock links back in.
Some of the questions I see on this page could have
been mine, pretty dumb, so read your manuals, and
don t screw up first, and then after that consult the
manual, like I do. It saves money and time.
Jacostarica.
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