Well I just changed my first tire. I used a car jack to break the bead and then worked on top of an
old car tire with irons to remove the old. I used only hands and bare feet to install a new rear
Gripster. It all went very smoothly and although I needed no lube to mount the tire, I had to put
some soap on to get the bead to seat. I was more than a little bit tired the third time I pumped it
up to 60 psi with a hand pump!
I have a few questions:
Is it normal not to find a balance or heavy mark on the Gripster?
How do I line up the tire in the swing arm?
Thanks to list for the bare foot method,
Rob.
quick and dirty fan test?
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- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:43 pm
wheel alignment
Here's something I havn't seen on this list yet.When adjusting the rear wheel/chain on my bike a while back I notice something. If I adjusted the axle to the same mark on the swinger arm the tire/wheel was almost touching the left side of the swinger arm. The bike also had a bad head shake at any speed over 70 mph.Is this normal? What I did to cure the problem,Was measure from the pivot point at the front of the swinger arm on both sides to the middle of axle. When I got the same measurement on both sides and wheel dead center of the swinger arm, I Checked the adjustment marks on the swinger arm and they were a full mark and a half off. This may be one reason why so many people talk about there bikes wobbling at high speeds.THAT'S MY STORY AND I'M STICKING TO IT!!!!!!!!!
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- Posts: 67
- Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 6:43 pm
wheel alignment
Here's something I havn't seen on this list yet.When adjusting the rear wheel/chain on my bike a while back I notice something. If I adjusted the axle to the same mark on the swinger arm the tire/wheel was almost touching the left side of the swinger arm. The bike also had a bad head shake at any speed over 70 mph.Is this normal? What I did to cure the problem,Was measure from the pivot point at the front of the swinger arm on both sides to the middle of axle. When I got the same measurement on both sides and wheel dead center of the swinger arm, I Checked the adjustment marks on the swinger arm and they were a full mark and a half off. This may be one reason why so many people talk about there bikes wobbling at high speeds.THAT'S MY STORY AND I'M STICKING TO IT!!!!!!!!!
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wheel alignment
On Thu, 14 Feb 2008 16:26:16 -0800 (PST) Wayne Blackburn
writes:
<><><><><><><><> <><><><><><><><> Wayne, Good observation! I think if you loosen the axle just a tad you'll find you can slide the metal pieces with the adjustment marks forward or backward a bit. So if one was all the way forward and the other was all the way back you could get quite an incorrect adjustment. And the wheel would be way out of alignment. I did my adjustment using the chain orientation on the rear sprocket. When the chain centers over the teeth just as they come into contact with the sprocket that's what I use to call my wheel aligned with the chain. I use a mirror to get this adjustment the first time. After that I always count the revolutions of the adjustment nuts and move them exactly the same distance. That keeps the wheel aligned and all I have to do is decide on the chain tension I like on my bike. I don't worry about the wheel being aligned with the swingarm or frame as I figure unless either piece is bent they'll be way close. And the chain is the part that I think will wear out the fastest if it's not aligned with the sprockets. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT> Here's something I havn't seen on this list yet.When adjusting the > rear wheel/chain on my bike a while back I notice something. If I > adjusted the axle to the same mark on the swinger arm the tire/wheel > was almost touching the left side of the swinger arm. The bike also > had a bad head shake at any speed over 70 mph.Is this normal? > What I did to cure the problem,Was measure from the pivot point at > the front of the swinger arm on both sides to the middle of axle. > When I got the same measurement on both sides and wheel dead center > of the swinger arm, I Checked the adjustment marks on the swinger > arm and they were a full mark and a half off. This may be one reason > why so many people talk about there bikes wobbling at high > speeds.THAT'S MY STORY AND I'M STICKING TO IT!!!!!!!!!
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quick and dirty fan test?
Hi Tumu....someone has likely answered by now bit if not since the fan is a dc motor it doesn't matter it will simply run reverse to normal if connected reverse polarity. That being said if I was testing the fan I would run it in it's normal direction since the brushes and commutator segments could develop leading and trailing edges from normal rotational wear since the motor is only run in one direction. What this means is that a perfectly good and serviceable motor could sound quite noisey due to brush chatter if run in it's reverse to normal direction.
If you are going to connect the fan directly to the bike's battery for testing purposes remember for safety connect the positive jumper wire first, the jumper to the negative pin in the fan connector second and the other end of the negative jumper to a ground point on the frame a good foot or so away from the battery last so if you have a shorted fan the arc that is generated when you connect the last is far enough away from the battery that you don't blow up the battery......enjoy the evening.....Greg
Tumu Rock wrote:
I need to test an old fan, does it matter which side of the plug I send
positive vs. negative? Don't want to pull the tank (had a hell of a
time with the install of my IMS tank, once it comes off it stays off)
so I plan on just connecting some alligator clips to the blades inside
the plug. Also, dod I still need to do something with the chassis
ground?
da Vermonster
Did some searching in the archives and FAQ and couldn't find the
answer. Just trying to get it done quickly so RM can back to riding.
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